Give the top tube / seat tube a good flick.

If it makes a "ting" sound, that's cool.
If it's more like a "thud", that usually means heavier steel.

And use the canti studs. There is no reason not to make this frame a fully fendered, all weather beast.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like you'll find much on the frame. Judging by the derailer hanger it was a better quality bike. The lower-end models generally have plain dropouts and use adapter claws. You could weigh it. That would give some indication to the quality.

Despite what others have said, I bet you'll be able to fit a 700c wheel in. A skinny 700 tire is about the same diameter as a fat MTB tire. But of course the only way to know for sure is to try it.

I dunno for sure if it's Euro. I see a lot of 82-84 Procraft BMX, but the http://www.procraft.de/ site says 25 years. Why would they omit the first couple of years? Maybe they'll keep the 25 yr badge up 'til 30 years comes around next year? Could be a couple of different companies?

Check this early 90s violet Procraft: Str8 pimpin!

http://www.apexspeed.com/doug/random...ocraft8_lg.jpg

I measure a 1" difference between a 23mm road tire and 2.1" aired up to 100 and 35 psi respectively. Quite a few frames had 1" clearance with 2.1s, many didn't. You'll probably want 1/8 clearance at least.

That procraft is rocking.

Yeah the purple rock shox and the Reynolds badge are making me very horny for that bike.

I think I'm gonna just build 700c rims since I already have a fork that's supposingly for 700c. But I'm not even sure about that

Try to borrow a 700c wheel to check it out before wheel building.

You could always run 700c up front and 26" in the back if push comes to shove. The back might sit a little low with small slicks back there, so watch your crank length. Conti 1.3, Ritchey 1.4, something like that. There's a Ritchey 1.0", but I think you need to have a pretty narrow rear rim to run that thing. 1.3 or 1.4 would be a good match for 28mm up front, assuming your fork/brake will fit a 28. Edit: actually I'd probably go smaller up front, run 23s to help reduce the overall diameter difference.

Zombie thread.



How funny to find this after all these years. That was my bike (that photo is still on my server).

I built it, ground-up when I was still racing XC for a local bike shop in New Lenox, Illinois called Pedal Power. The ProCraft was not the same as the BMX or German company, but a small micro builder in the area that also rode with guys from the bike shop. He did all steel road and mountain frames, and it was a complete custom build to match the geometry of my old '93 Fat Chance Yo Eddy. It's a late 90s build, even though there are some earlier parts on it. Many of the 3DV parts were off of my original Yo, including the Cooks cranks, Ringle bits, XTR components, Avid brakes, etc. Was a killer ride in 853 Reynolds. It even had a lightweight wheelset built for it with Mavic "sunrise" hoops, titanium spokes and 28-hole Ringle hubs. The paint was even a custom Glasurit metalflake bassboat purple with an SL Judy to match.

Kinda miss that one-of-a-kind bike...



Doug

Man, what an introduction! Sweet ride it was.