What spoke pattern are these wheels?
 

Hey Id like to know the spoke pattern of both of these wheels. Also, I know nothing about wheels so if anyone can answer these questions that would be great too.

Are these spoke patterns compatible with my current 32h hubs and Alex Race 32mm wheels? Basically im going off of sheldon browns advice that if your wheels match in spoke count your front wheel is too heavy.

Wheelset: http://www.alexrims.com/product_deta...1&cat=1&id=174

Those spokes look way thicker than my current spokes. Can anyone link me to some of these spokes?

Lastly, I may just adjust the front wheels spoke pattern and leave the rear wheel just as it is. Thanks for your input!

EDIT: Just realized I must have edited out the link for it so heres the picture of the spoke pattern I need help identifying. Thanks!

http://urbanvelo.org/wordpress/wp-co...ttendee_02.jpg

Those are carbon fiber spokes, from the picture, and they are in an ultralow spoke count that looks like a 2 cross, 16 spoke pattern.

I don't think the spokes on Mavic Ellipses are carbon fiber. I think they're just bladed stainless steel.

Two cross in the back, straight-pull steel spokes. 20 front and rear.

Origin8 makes something similar, slightly heftier, 28/24 spoke count and it costs a little less. Also branded as xero-lite.

CX-Ray Spokes.

Edit: you could adjust the front wheel lacing, but I don't know that all the work would justify the means. Say, going from a 3 cross to a 2 cross, you may shave off a handful of grams. Or radial, depending on the integrity of your hub, shave off a few more. Perhaps lacing in a low-flange road hub would help satisfy your weight loss goals.

I wonder how many people could truly realize the difference of a few grams or even a few hundred grams... I understand if you save a little here and a little there it might shave off a little something but
unless youre racing and weight really counts whats the big deal? if your bike weighs 19.2 lbs you think getting it down to an even 19 is really going to make a difference?

not knockin you... im jst wondering.

2 cross 20 rear / 20 radial front.

If you have 32 spoke hubs and rims have them built up 3x by a good builder and call it done.

If you have been reading SB you know that he was never a fan of low spoke wheels feeling that what you lose in spoke weight you gain in rim weight.

Front wheels do not have to withstand the same loads and forces as a rear wheel and have no dish so can be built with less spokes but a 32 spoke front will make for a fine and very solid wheel.

I'm guessing you want your front wheel rebuilt radial. It's quite possible on your 32h hub and rim using shorter spoke length

I just relaced a front wheel that doesn't have a bike to live on yet as a 3-leading 3-trailing 36 spoke. Looks awesome.

Not mine but similar:
http://www.cyclingcentralva.org/foru...1354_thumb.jpg

This has nothing to do with weight. Its merely aesthetics and the fact that I want to change up the look of my bike.

Just fyi...relacing the wheel means buying all new spokes+nipples and getting it trued...at least ~$40... But it can be quite rewarding to build your own wheels up. I'd suggest finding a few spare wheelsets and dabbling with them first.

Or if you have money and time to burn, pick up your components from IRO cycles and have fun!

Thanks. Do you perhaps know of any resources besides sheldon brown for wheelbuilding? Its a complicated subject to try and learn over internet forums.

Just to be clear, im more than likely just going to re-lace my front wheel to that radial pattern and just want to see if its a reasonable option.

Just wondering; would some LBS not attempt truing a decorative wheel like this? Not to mention attempt building one like this?

My mind works very analytically so I just de-laced a wheel and then rebuilt it using the same pattern as another wheel until I understood what I was doing.
Make sure to find a good LBS that you can get things checked and they can help you figure out if your doing it right or horribly wrong.
Most important thing is a Spoke Length Calculator. Also, if you ever de-lace a wheel keep a spoke, figure out it's length and keep a note with what it was laced to and how it was laced up.
Have patients and wait to buy the nice components when your confident you can lace a wheel up. I'm on my 4th buildup and I still can't get everything right, but I'll learn the pattern eventually. It definitely helps to have a human to talk to vs a forum.

When I took my ROLF to get trued the LBS didn't want to spend the time figuring everything out...where as Universal Cycles mechanic was all for it. I think it really depends on the LBS, but it is definitely a lot cheaper if you lace the wheel and just have them true it... At least that's my experience so far.

It sounds fun; but if I do this, it'll have to wait until summer when sessions are out and I'm free from all grading duties. =/

My very first wheel lace was with this. I did the back wheel first 3x then did the front wheel 3 leading 3 trailing. It wasn't very hard to lace at all. I had a friend from a lbs true them up the first time for me so it was all good, but I've trued them once or twice since.