Bomb Komodo

Forgive me since I come from the MTB world where it is super easy to remove a tire..what size wrench do i need for this with the Kilo?

And yeah I was thinking maybe straight bars too, since I like staying pretty tight on the grips, but I will ride the bars that come with the bike for a bit and sort it all out.

calv

A 15mm. As for risers, they won't affect your grip at all compared to straight bars, except they will more likely give you a more upright position without you steered tube lookin like big bird from sesame street lol.

Bomb Komodo

haha..yeah..i just saw a Kilo TT with short risers that looked sick on MyVelo. I think that could be perfection since it would make braking a little easier for me as well.

Bomb Komodo

I'm pretty sure 55 is going to be a little long for me but doable. Is this a huge issue or can I compensate with a stem and bar change? The bike is a real good price and I honestly can not find 53s or 54s in any frame around here.

calv

Just remember that Kilo's run a bit big, they're measured c-c instead of c-t. A 50 is more like 53, 53 is like 55, and 55 is like a 57-58.

How tall are you?

Also, is the frame 200, or the whole bike? Because you can get a brand new one on BikeIsland in any color and size for the same price.

Bomb Komodo

Whole bike and I am 5'8.

calv

I think cc700 is about that tall and he rides a 53 (55). I'm not the best person to ask about sizing, I'd probably wait around till one of the more knowledgeable members chime in.

yummygooey

I am 5'8.5".

I feel squished, but not unbearably so on a 50cm Kilo (~52cm top tube). I feel good on a 53cm Kilo (~550cm top tube) with an 80mm stem.

A "55cm" Kilo, according to the geometry chart, has a 56cm top tube. That'll most likely be too big for you.

Bomb Komodo

Col..I appreciate your input. I know I would be pushing it and am not sure how much it matters for a $200 beater. I'd do less then 100 miles a week if that helps out whomever else can chime in.

Bomb Komodo

yummygooey, does that mean that i should ride up to a 55 in a regular track frame basically? And up to 53 on the Mercier?

yummygooey

You should probably aim for a bike with anything between a 52 and 54cm top tube depending on your proportions.

Don't buy that Kilo if it doesn't fit... deals like that will come up all the time. I sold a KHS Flite 100 (same frame as the Kilo) with upgrades for $200 awhile back.

Bomb Komodo

Ok..kills me to pass on it, but I will wait. I don't want a huge bike, and I know 53 is my true size. Been dying to ride some fixed here lately..i will continue to stalk CL. I appreciate the advice!

Bomb Komodo

found a 50cm kilo..I may have to check that one out..I am long torso, but shorter legs and arms and a clean 5'8.

mikehighlife

Need bartape and silver thomson seatpost

Scrodzilla

Sherblock

What's the difference between a TT and a Stripper edition? All I can see is the dropouts...

mikehighlife

Hahaha they don't look so long in real life, I just suck at taking pictures lol

Squirrelli

Decals and no decals.

RubberDucks

calv

I didn't even know the drop outs were different. I will take a look at my gf's stripper and mine.

RubberDucks: DOPE! What rack and handlebars are those?

brenno

Hey guys, I ordered a Kilo TT stripper off of BD, and I've been doing my best to lurk as much information as I can from reading threads but still have a couple of questions. I know that a couple of parts are well established as crap. Specifically, the wheelset, stem, handlebars, cog, lockring, pedals, and saddle. I don't even know what the lock ring is, my back will be delivered to me. Im so excited I could poop.

I know this is kind of tedious to ask but could someone explain what happens when each of those things is bad? and how I can tell what a good one is?

and if you're even more awesome, if you could recommend some good parts to replace them (dont bother with handlebar and saddle recommendations) but I am still pretty confused between what a good part does that separates it from bad.

Thanks for your patience with me guys.

also bonus question, if someone could tell me what handlebars this bike has https://www.trackosaurusrex.com/pblog...tFullBike.jpg? I know their drop bars, but they look much deeper and skinnier than the ones that come with the bike.

calv

What separates good parts from bad ones is quality and the material used. the wheelset on the kilo is not really "bad" (okay, more like... not that good ), you could definitely live with it. the stem you could live with unless you need to change lengths, cog and lockring should be replaced by quality steel ones like a Scrodcog and lockring from Scrod's site www.retrogression.com or get a dura ace lockring and cog. surly cogs are pretty legit, EAI cogs are legit.. there's a lot of good quality options to choose. pedals plain suck, get some MKS ones like the GR-9's or Sylvans..

and the bars in the pic kiiiind of look like track drops to me (i can't really tell). they will NOT be comfortable.

edit: my post is not really telling you what to get, just kind of showing you some common, popular, and quality parts.

brenno

Anything helps, especially information about cogs and whatever, because those have been the hardest to scavenge information about.

also, I keep hearing about gear ratios and I have no idea where I should even start, I live in phoenix, which is completely flat, and I feel like I have normally strong legs. I've been skateboarding for 5 years BUT I DONT LIKE TO BRAGLOLOLOLOL. If someone could recommend a starting point that would be awesome

calv

lol, i skated for like 4 years too. it's been about 5 since i last did it though.

if you want an easy way out for cogs and lockrings, just buy from Dave, he's a good guy with quality products.

your kilo is either going to have a 46tooth or 48tooth chainring and a 16tooth cog. which will give you a high gear ratio around 80 gear inches. which will be pretty ****ing hard to pedal. if phoenix is as flat as you say it is, then it might be fine for your type of riding. if you do a lot of stop and go you might want to move up to a 17t cog so it's easier for stop and go type riding (if that's what you do)

if you didn't know, the higher the chainring the more gear inches you'll have, and the higher the cog, the less gear inches you'll have. i'm sure you can understand how that works.

Gabuyo

I do not own a camera.