Pake C'mute comes in a 47 frame. Standover says 29.5 but that's with thicker tires. If you're riding without brakes, there's always the option of just putting 650 wheels on the frame. It's been done before.

Also, in general, 'Track' bikes will have a shorter top tube than road/commuter bikes.

http://www.pakebikes.com/product/F8EF09/C%27Mute+Frame

The long reach caused by the stem and bull horns may be giving you the impression that the bike's top tube is too long. The Kilo TT already has one of the shorter top tubes for a bike of a given size.

To clarify a few things blackwizard:

- when sitting on the saddle, you should NOT be able to put your feet flat on the ground. More like tip toe.

- when coming to a stop at a light, you should be able to get off the saddle and either straddle the top tube, or leave one foot on a pedal with the other foot flat on the ground to clear the top tube.


Looking at your photo, I would suggest several changes:

- Change to a shorter stem. This is the least intrusive change as it doesn't affect the rest of the cockpit.

- Shorten stem AND change to flat bars with bar ends. Bull horn bars with long stems is a recipe for a long torso and long arms. If you go with riser bars, this would reduce the distance you have to reach from seat to bars too.

- Shorten stem and change to DROP BARS. This would give flats that are close to your body for upright riding, and drops that are still within reach when riding into the wind.

spicer has a 48cm frame set in his clearance section spicercycles.com
check it out it looks pretty nice and gene has to be one of the nicest guys in the cycling industry

I have to agree with that 100%. My old bike had a pair of bullhorns on it, I just kind of flipped them over, so the ends were facing back, it was a complete improvement. Sucks that I don't have any pictures of that one.

Yep everyone's already said it but just echoing shorter stem and different handlebars, maybe moustache.

It's also one of the cheapest mods on a bike, and really really really easy to do at home.

Another option maybe investigating the use of North Road handlebars with your existing stem. If you take a look here http://www.ecovelo.info/2009/11/23/n...tto-albatross/ you will see that North Road-style bar sweep backwards towards the rider permitting an upright riding position.

You can even flip them upside down to get into a drop position against the wind as illustrated in this post:
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2010/04/upside-down.html

Whether UPRIGHT or UPSIDE DOWN, the North Road bars can be rotated below horizontal for your riding preference. This is one way to reduce the reach of your current setup while retaining the ability to tuck into a more aerodynamic position against the wind.

Further reading with pictures:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...orth-Road-bars!

Using a online fit calculator like the one on competitive cyclist is great way to get the dimensions for a good fit.When the time comes for a new frame you can use the info to get the right size.Untill then,like mentioned above,get a shorter stem and townie bars.The Velo Orange porteur bars are also a good option for a bar that offers handpositions and short reach without adding rise.

Turn the bull horns over, like mentioned above .... kinda townie way

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/...cf40457e_o.jpg

http://go.bikeforums.net/?id=42X1295...please%2Fpage2