EpicSchwinn

I chose to keep a front brake on my bike in case I couldn't stop myself fast enough with skidzz or resistance but its stopping power is actually weaker than me skidding. Are there some adjustments I can do to make my front brake grabbier? I don't know much about brakes, but I'm ok with a wrench so fire away
Here are some pics of my setup:

LesterOfPuppets

1. You should be able to adjust the brakes so that the pads sit MUCH closer to the rim.
2. What lever is that? Is it designed for sidepulls?

Other things to check out:

Was that originally a 27" bike currently running 700c? The long-reach action generally decreases braking ability.

Long-reach dual pivot caliper could help a bit.

Better brake pads.

Oh, and it doesn't look like the brake's centered. Gap looks bigger on the right side of bike than on the left side.

Lilcphoto

get a new caliper

TejanoTrackie 

The best way to improve braking is to get some good brake pads. The ones you have are crap. Also, that is a cheap single pivot brake caliper, which won't provide much leverage. Get a good dual pivot caliper such as a Tektro and some good pads like Kool Stop salmon.

xkillemallx16

yeah, i agree. it would be more worthwhile investing in a nice tektro dual caliper lever, should be 20 bucks or less.

edit: tejano got it. but imo, stock tektro pads are fine. but to each his own!

Guitarrick

+1 Kool Stop Salmons

Squirrelli

I had this set up before, cross lever, same Dia-Compe 500, then I put on some Kool Stop Salmons and it made a huge difference.

TejanoTrackie 

Stock Tektro pads are ok, but Kool Stop salmon are awesome.

Leukybear 

+1

Dual pivot FTW.

And another +1

And 1 + 1 = 3

LesterOfPuppets

If you're on the cheap, just start with these adjustments:

Pads within 2 mm of rims and center the brake.

EpicSchwinn

Thanks for all the good advice! Lester, you're right about the 27 to 700c conversion. Can anyone recommend a better dual pivot caliper that will reach 700c's on a 27" fork? I might try out Squirelli's advice first just because it's cheapest

Squirrelli

Yea, if you do get new calipers, you could transfer them to your new calipers. Plus, one pack of Kool Stop Salmon have 2 set of pads, 1 set for all weather and 1 for wet.

LesterOfPuppets

I just run Kool Stop Continentals. $8.00 a pair at my LBS.

Scooper

Yep; Kool-Stop salmon brake pads on your existing calipers will make a huge difference. The Kool-Stop model you want is the "Continental"...

LesterOfPuppets

I also just get by with single pivot. It's a bit of a shocker how weak they are after riding one of my V-brake MTBs sometimes, but they get the job done good enough.

Braking is for woosey after all.

TejanoTrackie 

The problem with those elcheapo calipers is that 1) they don't have a quick release so if you set the pads really close to the rim it will be difficult to remove or install the wheel with the tire inflated 2) they don't have any centering adjustment feature so trying to center them can be a PITA and 3) the pads can't be adjusted for proper toe-in. The Tektros can be found for only about $30 shipped on the net they have a quick release, centering adjuster and adjustable pads. Just make sure you buy a model which has a separate holder for the pads and not one with pads that bolt directly to the caliper. The holder is compatible with Shimano road brake pads.

FastJake

Good pads such as Kool Stop can make all the difference, even on flimsy side pull calipers such as yours. If they don't, good quality dual pivot calipers WILL make all the difference. Before you buy, you need to know your reach. This is something you must measure: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#reach

I really don't know why it took bike manufacturers so long to come up with stiff brake calipers. Some of the old ones (especially in longer reach versions) are quite pitiful.

LesterOfPuppets

Yeah, lack of QR is a bummer. If you need to remove front wheel a lot that definitely weighs in favor of getting a newer/better caliper.

You should be able to center the caliper a little better, but it might be tricky. I've had a lot of calipers with flats in front of the fork that made centering easy with a cone wrench on the flats, I can't see if that one has them though. Been a long time since I've dealt with that brake, but I think if you loosen the front nut then get a wrench on the second front nut and one behind the fork you can center it that way. Then get a cone wrench on the front nut closest to the fork and a wrench on the front nut and cinch 'em down.

If you pull a little more cable through and clamp it down you should be able to get the pads much closer and with that much caliper barrel adjuster screwed out, you'd just have to screw the barrel adjuster in several turns to get the pads to clear the tire. Kind of a pain if you remove front wheel a lot, not an issue if you don't.

clink83

TO be fair, Campy brakes don't have a QR either, which is a bummer because you can get older Mirage or Veloce brakes on ebay for suuuper cheap.

Steev

Couple of things.
I had those calipers on a bike. Koolstops will improve your braking.
Also, it looks like your housing is way too short and making a big kink as it exits the lever and when it enters the caliper. It should be long enough that it exits straight from the stop and makes smooth curves. Fix that and your braking will improve.

Edit Is your cable end properly seated at the lever? Doesn't look that way in the pic.

rustybrown

Brake pads would help with stopping power.

But it helps to start with the fundamentals.

Like Steev above pointed out. Cable housing is wicked taut. Centering issue. Takes a bit of fandangling with the side-pull brakes, but can be properly achieved. With that lever, the pads are going to have to sit 1mm or closer.

TejanoTrackie 

Good luck with getting the wheel perfectly true so it doesn't rub on the pads.