i had clearance issues on tight turns too. the bottom brackets a little low, especially with the 175 crank arms i was using. i have a kilo now with a higher bb and 165mm cranks. no more pedal strike.

you sold the gravity?

yup

Have been riding my Swift 2 for about a month now and love it. Definitely looking to change to 165mm cranks though, pedal strike is sometimes an issue. I don't ride super fast, so it's not scary dangerous, but alarming nonetheless.

Also, weighed the bike when I first put it together and it weighed in around 18.5lbs. I've added Weinmann DP18's, bullhorns, and a Bontrager saddle, so I'm sure it's heavier now but it's still light enough to carry up and down the stairs with no problem.

why did u swap the wheels? who sells a decent crank set?

There was nothing wrong with the wheels that came on it, just didn't care for the look. They were pretty light though, and I'm swapping wheels again in the next week for a set that's lighter and nicer than the DP18's.

Scrod sells a couple cranksets that would be suitable for this bike; the Omniums, and the S300's. I'll probably be picking up one of these over the winter.

I just bought a Gravity Swift2 in black. I'm building a commuter for a friend (she's 5'4"). I didnt trust the geometry numbers on the site, sloping top tubes require a different measurement technique from horizontal top tube bikes and it didnt seem like the Gravity site was following that protocol. Also, people in the forums were posting they wish they had bought the next size down so I was doubly skeptical. So I bought the 49cm instead of the 52cm and I am so glad I did. Here are the real numbers: Standover=29.375" (at midpoint of top tube), 28.25" (at lowest point near seat post collar), 30.5" (right before head tube). All measurements were taken with fully inflated tires (25c). There is no way that this bike fits someone 5'1" like advertised. my wife is 5'2" and she can straddle the bike but just barely (no, she doesnt have shorter than average legs). The top tube length=19.75" (actual, center-center), virtual top tube length=20.25" (horizontal, center of seat post to center of head tube). The Bikesdirect site also doesnt list crank arm lengths for the different frame sizes. On most track and single speed bikes out there, the smallest size bikes will have a 165mm crank length, this one is a 170mm. The stem length is about 65mm. I have a digital fishing scale and the bike weighs in at 21lbs, 0 ounces. Not a lightweight, but light enough. This did not surprise me since I have built and owned maybe 30 single speeds and the bulk of those claims of sub 20 pound bikes are usually wishful thinking ("it's 2 pounds lighter since I put on a tri saddle and bullhorns") or creative advertising (*weight listed is for a 45cm frame size, without pedals). A single speed bike usually has to be into 4 digits price point to break that 20 pound barrier, especially for the large frame sizes. But I digress. I was hoping that posting some real world numbers would help future buyers. So far I think the bike is a bargain for a decent commuter/errand bike, and of course it looks great. In a week I am going to swap out the bars, brake levers, gearing and pedals, take it for a test ride and then post some pix and more feedback.

I have read Infinite Jest and watched goats pick their mates and I swear to all things holy it was less of a ADHD-inducing circle jerk than this.

Also, I have to ask, why buy a $200 bike and say that you only made "minor upgrades" to it which include a wheelset that is equal to or more than the value of the bike you purchased, a crank that is worth more than the bike, hell a seat that is worth half the value of the bike.

On that note, I'mma go down and buy me a Dodge K-body Aries and put a $4,500 set of gold deuce-deuces on lowpro, wide-stance tires, do a minor engine swap to a 442 Buick, take the rear end off and replace it with a posi-traction from a Dodge Challenger (1971) and then replace all the interior with carbon racing seats with five point harnesses. It might drive a little better.

Or would you rather buy a $700 Fuji and then swap out the components instead?

And the Dodge K car is FWD, so there wouldn't be a rear end to take off in the first place.

Good catch on the K car:p

I'd rather not buy the Fuji, because its the same bike as the crap already being discussed. I suggest if you're goal is to get a quality bike, start with a quality frame, fork and durable wheelset. Then when you add the $300 crank, $200 bottom bracket, $120 headset, etc. etc. etc. you're working with a solid platform. Consistently I see people with inferior frames and $2k in components.

You can polish a turd, but then you just got **** on your hands.

Thing is, steel frames don't really flex enough to absorb much bump. I think people prefer steel or CF frames because they don't buzz from road vibration and leave your hands numb.

I've had a few steel frames, one made from butted cromo, one made from 0.6 mm thick Super Vitus 980 tubing (It's on ebay now under Gitane Tricolore).

A stiff aluminum bike with a CF fork simply has a great feel.