It's just that it's pretty badly scuffed and scratched up, and no amount of cleaning and polishing is going to fix that. Functionally, there's nothing wrong with it.

Should I put Tririg's Sigma stem and Omega brakes on my Switch Urban frame? Is it a weird to put Tri designed parts on my SS carbon roadie project?

http://www.tririg.com/images/store/650/000_Store_45.jpg

http://www.tririg.com/images/store/6..._Store_147.jpg

Should this be my next geared bike ?

http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/66302.jpg

The only reasons I can see for a cx bike are that you are going to race cx or you can only have one bike. Are you going to race cx? As cx bikes go it seems pretty good but isn't this just one of those "very narrow niche in my stable" things?

I do race some cx and have a home-made beater cx bike, but that's not the main reason to have it. That particular bike is fender / rack compatible and like all cx bikes accepts wide tires. It also has disk brakes instead of cantis, which I hate with a passion. That makes it suitable as a bad weather and very bad road / dirt road / gravel road type of bike, which I occasionally encounter.

Do it.

Should I soda blast & clear coat my Premium Brew and build it up nice?

Train with your FTP build, sport with your GTB. I find that works for me.

Without derailing this thread, how do you like the Switch frame? Any actual weights? I've seen 'em for sale on ebay occasionally and am really intrigued.

As for the brakes/stem combo, I say no. That frame deserves ****** parts, but you don't need things like internal DI2 and cable routing for your SS. Plus thats what, $520 on a stem and brakes? I think your money could be better spent pimping your ride elsewhere.

At ~250g/pr the brakes are 45g lighter than DA or Campy but ~50g heavier than a similarly-priced brake from KCNC or Far & Near. The stem is ~115g heavier than an $80 3T Team.

I have yet to actually ride it since it's still in it's project build phase. It's about 3.4 pounds with fork and headset pretty darn light I'd say. Has a slight upward sloping top tube and a lower BB so it's not really trackish, more road like geometry. The track ends are depressingly short however so not a lot of room for play and not really built to accept multiple cogs without needing multiple chains if they aren't within 1 or 2 teeth of each other. But they are completely replaceable and can accept a rear drop out for some derailluer action if I want to.

The annoying part is that the Switch website doesn't provide much info besides it's geometry and not many people own this frame so there isn't a pool of experience I can pull from on the net.

I'll probably still go for the Omega brakes if not the stem. Going with the Cinelli Ram XL (not integrated stem) drop bars, so recommend a good stem.

Some reading for ya: 2014 Stem Review - Fair Wheel Bikes

I've been using 3T ARX Team stems since 2010, no complaints. I really like the move to torx bolts so if I were buying a stem now I'd get the new 3T ARX-II Team Stealth or a Zipp Service Course SL. Both are available in 6º and 17º variants so you can get your perfect fit.

As for geometry, it's frustrating that Switch's charts don't include things like BB drop. Are these road frames with thick drop-outs to reduce the rear spacing to 120mm? How is crank arm clearance?

What else should I change or do on my bike besides the pedals which I'm installing tomorrow.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2ithjp.jpg

Is there something wrong with it? If you really have the upgraditis then get some better tires.

Yes the track ends are thick. I'll snap a pic and send it to ya later, currently sitting at my desk at work. Will also be getting my bottom bracket soon, so once installed I'll get a pic of the crank clearance to the chainstays. I've seen both Campy Pista cranks (which has the lowest Q factor of any high end track crank) and Dura Ace 7710's installed before so I don't thing there's issues with clearance

I measured the bottom bracket drop before but don't remember the measurement, but I do recall it having typical road type drop.

You are telling me to replace Continental Gatorskin tires which are one of the best tires out ther

1) I always have problems deciding when I've got drop handlebar/levers set-up just right. How does this look? It is pretty comfortable, but "Should I..." readjust it? If so, suggestions?

2) When(if) I do get it right, I have some brown bartape I wouldn't mind putting on but that would make me want to change to a brown saddle, or "Should I..." just get some black bar tape?

http://i58.tinypic.com/efqqlc.jpg

It's adjusted right, when it feels right to you when you are riding it. I set up all my bikes so the three contact points (pedals, saddle, bars) are in the same relative position. If the bars have multiple positions such as your situation, I choose the position I ride on most, e.g. hoods. I don't go by what "looks" right or cool. So, most people here will say my Bianchi Pista Concept road setup looks goofy and not right, but it works for me with my very stiff lower back. As to the bar tape, I'd just stick with black.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=371124

Cool bike, is that an Alton?

I go for -10 stem if you can handle bars that low.

Appreciate the good advice, you are right - it is comfortable as is, and that's what matters.

Thanks but I honestly don't know. My buddy that works in Asia a lot got it at the back door of some bike factory and brought it back to me as a goof to shut me up from complaining about my good bike getting beat up on the train, in bike racks, etc. Has no brand marking, bound to be some cheap gas pipe POS but the joke is on him - I love it. Damned thing is a ton of fun & serves its purpose well, plus it gets a lot of smiles from others...

One of the best at sucking, maybe.

I read this hours after putting mine on......
At least they look nice
edit: mine are grandprix 4 season

so tell us god of tires what in the 25mm could be considered really good tires ?

Conti GP4ks have been nice to me.