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Questions on using a road-double crankset
I'm looking to down-grade on my crankset to save money and reduce chances of theft. Quality road-double cranksets go for very little on Ebay and craigslist everyday. I was wondering if people here were using this strategy and how they were liking it? Also, what is the method for using them? Running the ring on the outside?
And finally, what cranksets are recommended? I've been looking at Ultegra 6500 sets. Thanks |
You just use them like a normal crank with it's corresponding bottom bracket spindle type and dimensions; road cranks are 130 BCD; so you would be able to use a traditional fixed oriented chainring if you want.
For the chainring you can go both ways, mounting the chainring inside or outside; it depends on a couple of factors but primarily, you aim for a straight chainline. Older sram force and rival go for really cheap. |
Most budget "Track cranks" are road doubles with only one ring, so no problem there.However, I found that a shorter BB is usually needed.I've had good results with older square taper cranks(like sakae cx or sugino vp) running the ring on the outside using 103mm sugino BBs.
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Most middle line and lower end SSFG cranks sets are really double road cranks with one of the chainrings removed and shorter chainring bolts. The only difference is in the bottom bracket spindle length, which is chosen to provide a straight chainline. In fact, I converted a Sugino RD2 single speed crankset back into a geared double for use on a different bike.
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So figuring out the correct spindle length for a given set of cranks to get a 42mm chainline would be mostly trial and error?
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Originally Posted by toosahn
(Post 12942680)
So figuring out the correct spindle length for a given set of cranks to get a 42mm chainline would be mostly trial and error?
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On a road double crank, the bottom bracket spindle aims to put the chain directly between the two rings. In doing so, the chainline is off by 1.5mm on either ring. Typically, you can use the same bottom bracket spindle intended for a double setup, or you can subtract 1-2mm and put the chainring on the outside of the crank spider.
For example, my old Shimano 105 road double crankset requires a 107mm BB spindle. A 103mm spindle would bring both crank arms 2mm inboard, which would likely give me a near perfect chainline if the chainring is on the outside. |
older shimano 600 and you golden.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 12942779)
You may have a difficult time with an Ultegra 6500, because it has its own proprietary BB that is not available in the correct length for single chainring duty. If you place the chainring on the inside, then it might hit the chainstay if it is a larger size. I think you are better off just looking for a used lower end SSFG crankset and BB.
6600 is tricky to pull off. 68x109.5 will be the size you will need for the bb. |
Originally Posted by Dannihilator
(Post 12943250)
68x109.5 will be the size you will need for the bb.
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When you put the chainring on the crankarms, use the inside instead of the outside, works like a charm.
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...0¤cy=USD That said, I like square tapered cranks better. |
Originally Posted by Dannihilator
(Post 12943322)
When you put the chainring on the crankarms, use the inside instead of the outside.
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Had a 50 tooth on the inside, did not hit the frame(even under hard pedaling) and was silent.
That said, I agree with the square taper cranks. |
Originally Posted by rustybrown
(Post 12943218)
older shimano 600 and you golden.
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Originally Posted by toosahn
(Post 12943543)
What length spindle?
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 12942347)
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Pedals have since been changed to SPD / cage type so I can ride with either SPD or regular shoes.
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If you want the correct chainline, find a 110mm spindle.
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Originally Posted by rustybrown
(Post 12943218)
older shimano 600 and you golden.
This would be my road double of choice if I were to go that direction. I actually bought a pair of tricolor 600's awhile back to use on a build but found a better deal on a track crankset and sold them. Suhweet cranks, though. |
i have been using a campy square taper road crank for years without issue. i use it with the recommended 111mm spindle, a miche 1/8" ring on the outer position, and a 1mm spacer behind the cog on the rear wheel. chainline is perfect, and there is still plenty of cog/hub thread contact even with the spacer eating 1mm of availability.
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mildly on topic: using a pair of shimano 600 doubles for a junk bike. i put them on a 107 bb (i believe the original was 119, according to velobase); i'm just using what i have sitting around. the big problem is this: the non drive side crank arm is a whole lot closer to the chainstay than the drive side arm. to my knowledge, un57s are symmetrical, so what gives? anyone have a reason/solution?
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^^^I'm curious about that too
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Is the bottom bracket spindle inside correctly? The spindle has one tip longer than the other for your drive side crank.
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you guys are all wrong!
road cranks (like shimano 600) + 103mm bb + chainring on outside (better for aesthetics) = 42mm chainline. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=16123 |
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