Why are formula hubs so cheap compared to others?
 

Trying to understand what is so bad or good (how you look at it I guess) about Formula hubs compared to Profile, White Industries, Phil Wood, American Classic, etc. which all seem to be double or triple the price.

Do Profiles roll 2 or 3 times smoother? Require 2 or 3 times less maintenance? Or weigh less?

In addition, on formula's page, they list something called the "Mechanism:" and there's an option called "C+C" or "SB"? Does C+C mean Cog plus cog and SB means single bearing (meaning you can only put a cog on one side)?

To answer thread title; "Made in China", mass production, lower quality materials and tolerances/ workmanship (not that I'm saying that in a bad way considering many people and even fixed gear oriented shops would agree with me that formula hubs have definitely earned their place by being both economical and very durable at the same time).

Formula hubs are cheap, relatively smooth, and durable. That's why they're popular. The others just improve on those three factors (plus street cred).

especially cred

It's interesting Shimano can't be cheaper than most of the hubs mentioned above considering they can mass produce out of country as well.

Everyone can mass produce off shores. The question is whether or not they want to.

Right but doesn't shimano mass produce off shore? If so, then why aren't they a bit cheaper than a Profile, White Industry, etc.

Materials, tolerances, finish, and good ol' supply and demand.

For the same reason someone like P Diddy can sell a t-shirt with his name on the tag that cost $8 to produce for 50 bucks.

ftfy

Scrod, you make it sound like one cannot feel the difference when on the bike between two wheelsets, one being a Formula hub and the other set being profile or white industries...I'm surprised there's enough market share for these boutique companies to grab from Formula...

You won't feel it as much as your wallet feels it, that's for sure.

Sho enough....

That would be more likely with loose ball hubs, but with cartridge bearings it's all good.

Basd on pictures alone...SB: Sealed Bearing, C+C=Cup and Cone (meaning looseball)

So Sealed Bearing is the best option I'm assuming. Thank you.

Yup if you prefer relatively maintenance free.

I will say, without a doubt, DONT BUY LOOSEBALL BEARINGS. The stupid wheelset on my Kilo TT makes me want to die. Such a hassle.

Cheap loose ball hubs are junk, if you spend the money and take care of them nice loose ball hubs are very nice.

I've had OK luck with Kilo TT hubs. Took some patience and a lot of grease, though, and the dust cover design is so sucky that I have to repack the hubs pretty often.

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