Cheapest fixed conversion: new hub, cog, lockring?
 

So I have a few road bikes and I'm ready to fix one of them. I've read Sheldon Brown's pages on the subject, and I want to verify my understanding is correct. The *bare minimum* to convert it to a fixed gear that I can reliable pace-pedal and skid if I need to is:

1. New hub
2. Cog, lockring, and spacers for chain alignment
3. Redish the wheel
4. Correct chain length and tension. (maybe new chain)

This assumes the following:

1. Using the same rear wheel, just replacing the hub
2. Using existing crankset

Problem is I don't know much about components for fixed bikes. I saw an IROCYCLE flip flop hub for 20 bucks on ebay, don't know if it's any good (or if it matters?) and a cog and lockring will run anywhere from 20-30 bucks. So 50 bucks for a conversion?

I've also seen these "sets" on eBay that include a wheel, a 14t cog, lock ring, and a flip-flop hub for $60 after shipping. I just assumed the wheels were crappy (StaTru? probably sucks compared to the old Mavics that I have on the bike I am considering for the conversion..)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250873316151...#ht_500wt_1180

What say you, oh bike forums?

kilo tt

Good advice.

If you are using a new hub keep in mind you may need new spokes because the distance from the new hub's flanges to the rim may be different. You'll need to check that. It might not be a bad idea to just buy a whole new rear wheel to save yourself the trouble. If your going that route I would just buy a new wheelset though. It would be simpler IMO.

Also: if your crankset looks like this you might need to buy a new one:

http://images.jensonusa.com/large/cr...y__175__39.jpg

That's about it for the major stuff. If that doesn't cover all of it feel free to ask more questions and remember your LBS is always ready to answer questions as well. Welcome to the forums!

Yeah I started thinking about the spoke length issue. What's wrong with using a crank like that?

Sometimes the issue is the "chainline" which means that the chain needs to be as straight as possible. Sometimes that's hard with a "double" road crank like the one above. It's a case by case thing.

Use the crank, chain, and wheels that you have. You need a cog, spacers, and chain tensioner for SS. Add a Surly Fixxer for FG. Buy the cog to match the width of your chain. Shorten the chain as needed.

sell your road bike and buy a killo, if you dont do that at least keep the original parts and dont grind off cable guides ect or spray paint it