Just a cog, chainring, or both. Is that a Dawes BullsEye?

http://www.homebrewedcomponents.com/store.php

Buy some wheel tugs while you're at it.

But I still have no idea why you think you can't make a chain work on a certain gearing setup. I've yet to encounter a combination that wont work and can't imagine any that wouldn't.

O snap, and was just about to say it may be time for a tensioner. Upsell!

Well, you're looking at one. The whole point was to avoid having to use wheel tugs since the wheel would be all the way in the dropout. The chain is either too loose or way too tight in this gear combo. A half link adds a little more than 2" of chain slack so I'm either at 0" or 2+" - neither of which are good. Oh, and close with the dawes bullseye. It's a deadeye with discs since they didn't have the bullseye in my size. (bullseye was basically a deadeye with disc brakes and no linear pull posts for those not familiar with them)


So I'm looking into these splined cogs for cassette conversions. Is there an easy way to figure out what kind of cassette I have? It doesn't say on bd's website. Hoping it's campy compatable because this thing is sick: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2621

It's Shimano.

I'm guessing you don't realize you already have an 18t cog?

Thanks. I realize it's an 18 but I'm looking for a 17. Dang. I just now noticed the one i linked to only comes in 18 :(

Not sure what to tell you.. I would just pull the wheel back and throw some tugs at it personally. You can see in the pic you have a grease ring where the nuts once sat in the center of the dropout, compared to the now slammed forward position.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't really understand why you don't just pull the wheel back a bit either.

i too, like BmoreDrew & Scrodzilla, am confused why you seem to be so hung-up on slamming your wheel all the way forward in the dropouts?

what makes you think that you can't tighten the nuts down enuff to keep it from sliding without tugs? plus then you have to change the chain length every time you switch cog size. maybe a half-link chain really is the best thing for you after all.

as far as replacing your cog...
all you need is an ordinary 9-spline cog, they are all over the place for as little as $3-4. do you really need a homebrewed on your deadeye? those are meant for the stress of serious mtbing. since you likely will need to buy several cogs anyway to try different gear ratios now that you've learned that mountain bike gearing is not so great for riding pavement, why not keep your cost down till you find the gear ratio you like best?

good luck...

The op stated he wants the wheel "slammed" for security reasons... You can break a chain in less than a second with a screwdriver or cut it with a pair of snips just as fast... Also a theif could just force the chain off the cog. Your best bet would be to carry a cable and lock the wheel.

I get what you are trying to do here, but it's obvious that the clearances are too tight though in terms of mud and rotor ... why risk chewing the paint job up unnecessarily , lock the wheel to the frame if you have to leave it locked somewhere.

"All aboard! Next stop,
Overcomplication Station!"
http://www.electronici9.com/wp-conte...all_aboard.gif

How is having your axle bolted 1cm closer to the seat tube going to "keep the rear wheel from ever slipping while climbing"? If you tighten your axle nuts properly, your wheel shouldn't slip regardless of where the axle is in the dropouts.

Keeping the rear wheel slammed could also make it a huge pain in the butt for maintenance reasons. I love not having to break my chain everytime I want to take off my rear wheel. I left just enough space to be able to pop the chain off when the wheel has been loosened from the frame.

I also like the fact that I can put on a different tire and not have to worry about it fitting in my frame.

I've ridden with my wheel completely slammed. You don't have to break the chain to take it off >.>

Loosen axle nuts. With your finger on the top of the chain just before the chainring, push it outwards and spin the crank slowly. The chain will misalign and come off the chainring altogether. Now you can pull your wheel out.

To the OP, you have a half link on it now so what is the problem? A single half link is not going to be the end of your world. People have been using them for a long time. They dont' make your bike explode

You do realize bikes have chainstays of various lengths and differing gear ratios, right? Not everyone's chain is the exact same length and what you're suggesting doesn't always work.

Except that a single speed chain isn't built to flex. If the chain is tight enough to stay on when "slammed" (aka all the way to the front of the dropout, loosening the axle will not move the wheel forward) forcing it off will weaken it. I've taken a chain off like this in haste and ended up having it break about .5 miles down the road after tossing it back on.

If it is too tight to lift off, don't force it.

To answer page 2:

I moved it back 1mm in the drop outs. All is well, just 1mm less street cred/aero/stance/hellaflush

http://www.gamertagpics.com/users/i/...1304873980.jpg
but i wanted it slaaaaaahahahahahaaaaaaammmmmmed :cry:

jk. I think i can deal with it now.

i dont understand why you wanted it slammed on a 29er. when going uphill, if your body weight gets behind the rear axle you are unstable -- read: long wheelbase is your friend on climbs. you should know that from your schwinns ridic 'stance' bro

That's not closed to slammed at all... Truly "slammed" is 1mm or less. Good luck getting girls with that hun'

While i don't want to get into a debate over wheelbase, it's worth noting that shortening the wheelbase is helpful for handling on tight singletrack. Since this is an extra large frame and it's a 29er the wheelbase is already way longer than most mountain bikes. Regardless, I'm not enough of an avid mountain biker or have a bike that's good enough to notice the handling change from the adjustment.

And yes the wheelbase on my Schwinn is hueg liek xbox. One of these days i'll have enough money to build up a proper tarck bike.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/kym-assets/p...jpg?1242072786

maybe I can get some girls with my slammed disc brake clearance (see earlier pic) :P

agreed. i was just kidding but really, i like rigid ss mtbs as much as the next guy but its no joke that you arent going to get very gnar on a rigid ss mtb anyway. that would be like saying fgfs is gnar when its barely gn

kilo tt

Or use the master link. Sometimes I can "break" the chain without any tools..

This. Not because of the sideways lateral forces wearing the pins, not from it somehow magically having twice the number of links while still keeping the same pitch, not from not cleaning and lubing the chain on a daily basis, simply this. Ya, they're cool on your bmx bike so you can slam your wheel and look cool at the skatepark, but then you grow up and realize they are horrible chains, especially for the price, and you go back to the chain design that's worked for over a hundred years for obvious reasons.

To the op, just adjust your wheel like a normal person, that's why the frame builder chose to put track ends on your frame instead of vertical dropouts. If your still not satisfied with this answer, and you want to get rid of that dumb modern cassette and go back to old school free wheels, build up a wheel with a white industries eno hub, that will solve both of your, errr..."problems"

-connor