Keep Stripping Hubs What Should I DO???
 

Okay so I've just stripped two hubs in like a expanse of 4 days, and this is getting pretty frustrating :crash:. Both hubs were formulas with a cheap (20$), no-name cog and a cheap aluminum lockring. In both stripping cases, both cogs came loose while I was skidding.

The first hub I stripped was probably because of user error, as when I was tightening the lockring the cog moved a bit as I didn't have access to a chain tool, and I didn't use any lock-tite. About 10 minutes into the first test-ride the cog slipped loose and BAM, the hub stripped. So I took it to Recyclcistas, the local community bike shop in victoria and laced on another formula hub. This time, I actually asked the people at the bike shop to specific instructions, put loctite on the lockring threads, greased the cog threads, chain whipped the cog on and made sure that the lockring was nice and snug. Then, like 3 days later, my cog loosens again? WTF. When I looked at the threads, it looked like the cog's threads had also been stripped a bit.

So, how do I prevent stripping ANOTHER cog in the future. Should I used a better cog, a better lockring, a better hub, locktite on the COG AND THE LOCKRING? Do you have any other secret ways (I've tried rotafixing too) to keep the lockring on. Or is this a case a user error and putting too much stress on the hub, as per my skidding technique where I skid while sitting down without hopping the rear tire.

All help is appreciated

I would suggest buying a better cog and a lockring. I've never had to use any sort of Loctite on my cog or lockring and I've only ever had two minor slipping incidents, both of which were clearly due to user error and inexperience.

You can get pretty decent cogs for around $20 (e.g. Scrodcog) and a top of the line lockring for less than $15.

Yes it's the lockring... formulas have a superb track record (rivaling those of the legacy brands) for durability. Just get a dura ace steel locking and you should be good once you make sure that both cog and lockring are tightened down properly.

Cheap cogs and lockrings destroy more hubs than anything else. As noted, decent cogs need not be expensive. Look for a cog that is machined rather than stamped. Shimano's lockrings are good bang for your buck.

In b4 EpicSchwinn's info sheet. :lol:

Like a Surly hub then?

Or you could, you know, just use brakes... In other news, I stripped a hub about a month after getting my bike. New hub, new Surly cog and lockring, and a lockring tool to make sure sh*t stays tight, and all is good now.

I have a front brake on my bike, but I like to skid just for the fun of it. And also I live in a hilly area so I don't want to be riding the brakes all the time...

Get your cog tight, really really tight, not just "snug". If the cog isn't secure it doesnt matter how tight or good your lockring is. And get a brake

+1

..

Yup the font sizes are in perfect working order mr. modzilla ;)

I have to check them from time to time just to be sure. :lol:

Its a both issue. A crappy cog will mean that your lockring doesnt matter, and a crappy lockring means your cog will screw up.

* Better quality parts (Shimano is affordable and good quality)
* Better quality installation (snug gear is not even close to good enough. It needs to be "I just sprinted from 0 to 30 in 2 seconds tight.")
* Locktite is not needed with proper track hubs, such as yours.

iso cog hub
 

if you are going to skid, get a ISO cog hub.

You mean like a disc hub with a bolt on rotor? The thing is no companies make disc single speed hubs that are 120mm spacing, and I really would like a flipflop. Are ISO cog hubs really better than a traditional threaded one?

iso cog hub
 

for skidding? I think so.

http://www.philwood.com/products/hub...isofixfree.jpg

For Realz,

get a decent cog (Dura-Ace, Surly, Scrodcog, Milwaukee Bike Co., EAI, anything cnc'd rather than stamped really),
grease the threads on both the cog portion and the lockring portion of your new hub,
thread the cog on carefully,
tighten with a good chainwhip or careful application of rotafix,
get a decent lockring (STEEL, from any of the makers above, just not aluminum),
thread it on carefully,
tighten with the appropriate lockring wrench/pliers,
install the wheel in your bike,
go out and ride (hard standing acclerations can help),
check the tightness of both your cog and the lockring,
tighten either if needed,
done.

Cheers
lverhagen

Stop buying bike parts made out of latex.

If you could have waited three more weeks, it could have been a year later that you added a useless bit of info.

BRO I LIVE IN VICTORIA TOO. hah
sorry off topic