Rear wheel decision
 

I have a Schwinn Cutter. Fun bike, even if the high-ten frame is a little heavy. I've had it almost two years and put a lot of my miles on it, especially lately. About a month ago, I broke a spoke. Bought a new one, put it in, no big deal. Then last night, spoke #2 broke. I've seen this before- the zipper effect: one spoke breaks and the load from that one goes to the spokes around it, and the wheel "unzips" one spoke at a time.

So now I guess it's time to look at options. My priority overall is to get the best value; I'm more into function than bling. In other words, I'm cheap. Given that, I need to assess my options. One key is that in 2009, the Cutter was a SS only, and I've been thinking about trying FG. Kibitzing is welcome.

1. Cheapest option: Buy an entire set of replacement spokes and rebuild the wheel, keeping the same rim and hub which, to my eyes, are still fully functional. I've never done a complete build from scratch, but I've done a similar rebuild once before (replaced a damaged rim, keeping same spokes and hub). Lowest cost, gives me a straight replacement, buys me probably another couple years at least, maybe more if I do a good job on the rebuild.

2. Same as 1., except get a new hub, a flip-flop, so I can explore the joys of FG. If I do this, what would be a good hub and fixed cog to buy, considering my preference of function over style, and desire to keep the cost down?

3. Bail out of the DIY stuff and just buy a reasonably robust rear wheel with a flip-flop hub. Recommendations for a reasonably priced replacement rear wheel are welcome.

I'll probably price out all three options, so I guess I'm asking for advice on what to price out for options 2. and 3.

The hub you have now isn't a flip flop?

Cheapest is probably to buy all new spokes and relace the wheel. Your problem isn't uncommon. The wheel wasn't built with enough tension initially. The spokes have fatigued enough that they're failing early. You're right - since you've broken two already, you can expect them to keep failing.

Formula makes pretty cheap, but good quality hubs. I think there might be cheaper ones out there, I can't remember the name

I vote 3. http://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=785

Although I would go with a sealed bearing hub if you can afford it.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Given the number of "my bike is FG, how do I convert it to SS?" threads out there I had to ask. Didn't mean it as an insult.

And right you are, after looking up a review of the Cutter. Mostly I was surprised they'd cheap out that much and offer an SS/FG type bike without a flip flop.

They made it flip-flop in 2010 and later. My wife got me the Cutter for Christmas 2009. The 2010 Cutter was out by then and as soon as I saw it I thought... dang! I coulda had a fixie!

I would just buy a nice rear wheel from my lbs. They can be had for less than $100.

Also, this seems like a good deal to me: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phil-Wood-Ma...item2c5f2374e2

When I started looking at getting myself an ssfg bike, I test rode a Trek District (don't remember what specific number) at my LBS, and it was only SS. They had a different model that came with a flip flop too though.

I'll go this route if budget permits, less things to deal with. My recommendation: Velocity Aerohead rims, Formula flip flop hub, new spokes, cog. Would set you back approximately over $100 (around $130 at my LBS). That's what im running on currently and i'm very happy with it.

The budget permits, it's just a question of whether I want to spend the "political capital" with my wife. The plus side is that she *did* buy the bike for me, and I *am* riding it a lot which is why I'm breaking spokes, so spending some money on it isn't too much of a stretch. Plus my birthday is next month.

Now, if I buy a built-up wheel, I will also need a track cog and lock ring... What do you recommend there? And how much money are we talking about for that?

If you know how to build a wheel or are interested in learning:

IRO hub - $20
IRO rim - $15
Sapim Race double butted spokes - $13
Scrodcog + Lockring = $26

Total: $74 plus shipping and handling

IRO is closed, unfortunately.

What's the advantage of double butted spokes? Weight? If so, I don't much care. Normal spokes would be fine.

Bummer... I was considering ordering more wheelgoods from them.

$0.25 will also get you one brass nipple and one 14G Sapim spoke from Danscomp. That'll save you $5.

I think they are just restocking but it's closed for a few months at least. Who knows whether the hubs and rims will stay priced the same.

They're also supposed to be more durable. Jobst Brandt had a lot to say on the subject, I usually take him with a grain of salt though.

IRO's ebay page still has a few hubs for sale.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/irocycle/m.h...&_trksid=p3686

Ah... thanks, Scrod.

No prob. As a heavy hitter, I've found that building my wheels with double butted spokes really does make a world of difference.

So... one of the brands I see around is Origin8; I think they are the house brand for one of the suppliers. Would an Origin8 hub be a decent start for a new rear wheel? I'm starting to warm up to the idea of building this out myself. Also, when people talk about double butted spokes, is the double butting a physical feature you can see, or is it just a gradual transition from a larger diameter to smaller one (and back again)?

Origin 8 hubs are just rebranded Formulas - which are decent. You could always go Novatec which are a little better and around the same price.

You can see the difference on most double butted spokes, like so:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3021/...cd8e0e5ea3.jpg

I am not so sure how true this is but I have been told that Origin8 Hubs are rebadged Formulas, and Formulas are known for their reliability.

You know, I think I heard that somewhere.


Thanks for the pics, Scrod.

No prob!