Ask Scrod
#7876
Grumpy Old Bugga
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,229
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
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I was funning with you mate, suggesting the wheel isn't building itself. An appropriate response would have been along the lines of "when a daddy rim meets a mummy hub and they really like each other ..." or, more pragmatically, "the bloody wheel won't build itself, YOU have to do something ".
On a serious note, I was going to do it on Sunday but the ruddy MG has its hand in the air for urgent maintenance AGAIN! Speaking of building the wheel, I'll be using the Park Tools tension guage because I lack the experience to judge things by feel as yet. Any thoughts on what tension to aim for? Or just go for Park's recommendation for 14g spokes.
On a serious note, I was going to do it on Sunday but the ruddy MG has its hand in the air for urgent maintenance AGAIN! Speaking of building the wheel, I'll be using the Park Tools tension guage because I lack the experience to judge things by feel as yet. Any thoughts on what tension to aim for? Or just go for Park's recommendation for 14g spokes.
#7877
Grumpy Old Bugga
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,229
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
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Just realised that my tongue in cheek question wasn't as daft as some of the serious ones you get
#7878
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 383
Bikes: 2010 Windsor The Hour, 1982 Fuji Supreme
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I still have the stock crankset on my Windsor The Hour. The majority of the chainring bolts don't actually tighten to snug, but tighten to spinning (not quite free) on the crank spiders. This is not ideal. So, question: would buying a new set of chainring bolts possibly solve this, as they're the cheapest link or would I be more likely to solve the problem by buying a crankset that is not crap?
#7879
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
I still have the stock crankset on my Windsor The Hour. The majority of the chainring bolts don't actually tighten to snug, but tighten to spinning (not quite free) on the crank spiders. This is not ideal. So, question: would buying a new set of chainring bolts possibly solve this, as they're the cheapest link or would I be more likely to solve the problem by buying a crankset that is not crap?
#7881
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Scrod,
Sorry to change topics, and post a completely random question--but do you know what happened to IRO cycles? I currently have 2 Mark V frames (one older tear drop, one newer) which I've been riding forever. I was looking to replace the older one recently, and have kind of realized that IRO has had no website activity at all lately.
Tried shooting them an email through their website's contact form, and that seems down too.
Just curious as to whether or not Tony and IRO decided to call it quits..
cheers.
Sorry to change topics, and post a completely random question--but do you know what happened to IRO cycles? I currently have 2 Mark V frames (one older tear drop, one newer) which I've been riding forever. I was looking to replace the older one recently, and have kind of realized that IRO has had no website activity at all lately.
Tried shooting them an email through their website's contact form, and that seems down too.
Just curious as to whether or not Tony and IRO decided to call it quits..
cheers.
#7882
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Scrod,
Sorry to change topics, and post a completely random question--but do you know what happened to IRO cycles? I currently have 2 Mark V frames (one older tear drop, one newer) which I've been riding forever. I was looking to replace the older one recently, and have kind of realized that IRO has had no website activity at all lately.
Tried shooting them an email through their website's contact form, and that seems down too.
Just curious as to whether or not Tony and IRO decided to call it quits..
cheers.
Sorry to change topics, and post a completely random question--but do you know what happened to IRO cycles? I currently have 2 Mark V frames (one older tear drop, one newer) which I've been riding forever. I was looking to replace the older one recently, and have kind of realized that IRO has had no website activity at all lately.
Tried shooting them an email through their website's contact form, and that seems down too.
Just curious as to whether or not Tony and IRO decided to call it quits..
cheers.
#7883
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Scrod, do you enjoy playing video games?
#7885
Member
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Hey Man--you ever see the Avid Speed Dial 7s setup with a short pull caliper brake?
I just ordered these and assumed they were adjustable, but someone is now telling me they aren't.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-Speed-Dial-7-Levers
setup with SRAM Apex brake set.
I just ordered these and assumed they were adjustable, but someone is now telling me they aren't.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-Speed-Dial-7-Levers
setup with SRAM Apex brake set.
#7886
Fresh Garbage
nope
Avid 2008 Speed Dial 7 levers work with linear pull brakes (Avid, Shimano V-brakes, all mechanical discs, etc)... Brake Lever Actuation: Long Pull
#7887
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Hey Man--you ever see the Avid Speed Dial 7s setup with a short pull caliper brake?
I just ordered these and assumed they were adjustable, but someone is now telling me they aren't.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-Speed-Dial-7-Levers
setup with SRAM Apex brake set.
I just ordered these and assumed they were adjustable, but someone is now telling me they aren't.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-Speed-Dial-7-Levers
setup with SRAM Apex brake set.
#7888
Member
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Maybe?
#7890
Veteran Racer
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,757
Bikes: 32 frames + 80 wheels
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__________________
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
Last edited by TejanoTrackie; 06-21-13 at 07:17 AM. Reason: spelling
#7891
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 483
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Steamroller, Panasonic DX-3000, Trek 4900
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Scrod,
What are your thoughts on the Selle Italia Turbo Reissue saddle? I saw on pedalroom that you have one on at least one of your bikes and was hoping I could get some insight on how you liked it.
What are your thoughts on the Selle Italia Turbo Reissue saddle? I saw on pedalroom that you have one on at least one of your bikes and was hoping I could get some insight on how you liked it.
#7893
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
I have an original Turbo and a reissue. Selle Italia did a very good job replicating the padding on the new ones and they are just as comfortable after a little breaking in. The soft, suede-like finish will wear off and get smooth after a little while though (which I happen to like better).
#7896
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 383
Bikes: 2010 Windsor The Hour, 1982 Fuji Supreme
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edit: Huh. Those should cost way less than 10 bucks for a set.
editedit: Okay, like 7, but Niagara Cycle's product details are fuzzy at best and non-existent in this case.
Last edited by highonpez; 06-21-13 at 12:25 PM.
#7897
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 483
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Steamroller, Panasonic DX-3000, Trek 4900
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I have an original Turbo and a reissue. Selle Italia did a very good job replicating the padding on the new ones and they are just as comfortable after a little breaking in. The soft, suede-like finish will wear off and get smooth after a little while though (which I happen to like better).
#7898
Your cog is slipping.
Thread Starter
Dude, are you kidding me? Go to a bike shop. They'll be like 25 cents each.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 06-21-13 at 07:02 PM.
#7900
Member
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Location: Oregon
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Is that a service you offer? Sometimes my ass gets sore when I ride. It would be nice to be able to use a different ass to keep mine feeling good.