Wheels did I get scamed?
 

hello guys ,I would like to know if I got scamed.
I bought a set of dp 18 weinmann who where not much used , they look like new.

BUT the front axle width is a tad to large for my fork and the rear is smaller then the actual 135 that I have( the dude is a bike builder, he said you could add spacers to the rear, so it could fit without problem)
secondly the axle diameter is tiny tad bigger then my dropouts, he suggested me to take a file and use it to make the holes bigger so the axles would fit.

Is this a normal procedure or I should just return the wheels?

they costed me 150

What kind of bike? Also, depending on hubs $150 seems high. A shop here is selling them brand new with Formulas for $145

dp18's should never cost 150. you should never have to respace them yourself if the "bike builder" doesnt know how to do it himself. you should also never buy from anyone that tells you to file your dropouts.

return them.... if you can.

OP is in Canada.

the bike came with formula hubs , my bike is an old ccm targa(generic frame)
So returning them is the solution?
And if I can not return them is there any thing that could be done with the wheels?

You didn't get scammed....you made an uninformed purchase. You should be able to get the rear wheel to fit with some axle spacers, but you'll need some cone wrenches to put the spacers between the cone and locknut. However, you could also just put some washers on the axle outside of the lock nuts. Its kind of janky but it will work.

I can't imagine why the axle doesn't fit into your fork (thick paint?), or why its spaced narrower than the hub. Spacing of all forks is the same (100mm). Is your fork bent?

I don't think you got scammed. The price seems about normal for a not-online place. You shouldn't have to respace the wheels or file your dropouts though. I'd get a set of wheels meant for your bike or at least from someone who knows how to set them up appropriately.

front axle is 100mm and not bent thick paint is a possibility for the rear wheel but the front wheel I dont know? and the suspicion of scam is not directed to the price but on the fit of the wheels

If you're referring to exchange rate, $150CAD = 151.30USD. Not a big difference.

I ran into something like this last night. Stopped to help a guy with a flat. Vilano frame with Formula hubs. It took both of us to get the wheel out, and I had to bend the rear fork by probably an inch to get the wheel in. Dude had tons of spacers inside, and instead of crown nuts he had regular nuts and washers on the outside.

Exchange rate and retail prices for consumer goods are very different things.

True.

I'm not familiar with your frame, but some old bikes used US standard sizes instead of metric.Those bikes use 5/16(~8mm) front and 3/8(~9.5mm) rear axles.A little bit of filing will take care of the difference.Also,some old forks use 95mm spacing.I had to file and spread the fork on my 80s shogun a little to use a modern wheel.

I had to file the threads flat on an old cheap front track hub because the axle was to large a diam. to fit in the drop out,Also it was an older Specialized fork from the 80s.I think the OP has the same problem.

So, you were done servicing that one, eh?

If the filing is done carefully, servicing the hub afterward isn't a problem.

I should have been more clear. This is what I meant.

SO hey guys, I measured the diameter of the dropouts and the axle of the front wheel and I am having a delta of 0.45 mm(.0177inch)
and for the rear wheel and dropout it's the same 0.45mm to remove for a proper fitting
The rearwheel is mounted on a 119,50mm(measure's were took on the flat surface of thecounter nut that holds the axle) hub and my rear spacing is 135mm
the front spacing for the fork is 100mm and the hub is 100.20
If the rear does fit with little spacing the alignment between the chain ring and hub wont be off?

Can you guide trough the process of fitting them is there any thread that shows bolt size spacers and etc?


Otherwise,
I think I am just goingn to return the wheel because of the hassle that I will have trying to fit the wheel and the fact that I wil have no choice but to go to my lbs so it could be done

Bring the bike with you and ask the gentleman to show you how to mount them on your bike.

120-135 is a big jump. 120 in a 126 is no prob, but if the axle's long enough to accommodate washers and for nuts to fully thread on I guess it's OK.

I've had a few bikes with skinny axles but never one with 135 rear dropouts.

What kind of CCM is this? There's no such thing as a "generic" bike.

Those wheels are pretty standard so you'll encounter these problems with many wheels, aside from rear spacing, a 130 or 135 rear wheel would work much better and is widely available

the bike is a CCM targa sold in the 70s's for 80$ if I remember what I've read not so long ago

Are you measring 135 on the inside of the dropouts? That dimension is tripping me out. Wasn't seen too much back in the 70s, maybe on tandems.

Otherwise get yourself a rattail file and get to work on those dropouts. Only file one side of the dropouts so the axle stays square, ie only file the leading edge of the fork's dropouts, don't touch the top or back side of dropout. On the back just file the bottoms of the dropouts. This ensures that your axles fit against factory finished faces.

Maybe the frame had been previously cold set to accomodate a modern 135mm O.L.D. hub.

is it possible op has a mountain bike frame?
135mm is the standard rear spacing on mtbs

I was thinking that for a moment but he said he had a CCM Targa, which is a gaspipe 10-speed.

my measures where taken from center to center of the dropouts maybe this where it went wrong