newb question: Kilo WT chain line
 

I have a Kilo WT, the stock Alex Sub rear rim broke and I replaced it with an Alex G6000, but now my chain line is way off. I can't put the chain ring (stock Sugino 48T) on the inside of the crank or it will hit the frame, and the axle is not adjustable within the hub (unless there is something I don't know). Am I better off getting a new bottom bracket or having the wheel redished? (I've never trued a wheel before) Do I have any other options?

I've read the Sheldon Brown chain line page a few times and spent an hour or so reading on here, but I'm still having a hard time wrapping my head around it and finding a solution. I've only been riding a year and a half (in my 30s) so I am quite new to this, but I am mechanically inclined and love to buy tools. :)

Thanks,
Vinny

How on earth did you break your rim? What hub are you using now?

By "rim", do you mean wheel ? The rim will have no affect on the chainline, but the hub will. Also, dishing the wheel will not fix anything if the hub axle spacing is off. Can you proivide more information ?

By rim I mean rim, I broke the rim of the wheel. Sorry, I'm not yet up on all the bicycle terminology and abbreviations, I've been around cars and racing most of my life so you'll often hear me use automotive terms for this stuff.

Trying to avoid some broken asphalt in traffic I kissed the edge of a storm drain right on the rim's welded seam and broke it [pic]. I then replaced the entire rear wheelset with an Alex G6000 I ordered off Amazon.

According to the Amazon listing its a Joytech hub, though what they sent me didn't entirely match the description so who knows what hub it really is. There is no brand on it from what I can see, but it does have sealed bearings.

You are right, forget I asked about wheel dish. Too much information at once caused logic to elude me.

So, you got a complete new wheel ? Are you running a fixed track cog or a freewheel ? Is the replacement hub the same style as the Kilo original, flip flop with double track threads (cog and lockring) on one side and single freewheel threads on the other ? Photo of current setup ?

I know the wheel you're talking about because my shop also sells it. Unless someone else is selling a version of it with a wonky rear hub, you should have no issues with chainline.

A photo of your actual wheel and link to what you bought will definitely help.

Yes, I bought a complete new wheel. I guess I was expecting to be able to install cog/lockring/tire to the new wheel and be ready to go. Both the original, stock hub and the one I have on the bike now are flip-flop track/freewheel. They are not the same hubs, but appear very similar in design. I can snap a pic of the current setup if you think it will help.

Did you buy this? If so, that's a Joytech (Novatec) hub and as I said, you should have no issues.

Did you install your cog backwards?

It was this one, but essentially the same thing thing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

Cog is not backwards, the other way would make it further out of line.

Its bad enough you can feel the individual teeth engaging, the chain ring is visibly rubbing the inside of the chain on one side. Maybe it would be better with less chain tension? The pics I saw searching on here today often displayed visible slack where I thought it was supposed to be tighter than that.

I'll snap a pic as soon as I get back from the store.

Same wheel that I posted, just the 36 spoke version. Same hub. I've got Novatec track hubs on both my bikes and have a perfect chainline. It sounds like your chain is too tight but I'm looking forward to seeing pics.

I took a pic, but now I am trying to figure out how to upload an image to this site. If I have to I will host it on facebook or something.

I just tightened it all back up to take a pic and UGH, its feels and sounds gritty like the whole thing is full of sand, wasn't like that before I took it apart yesterday. I do ride at the beach a lot, and there's sand everywhere on the streets of LA, but its only been less than 50 miles since I put on this new wheel and chain and thoroughly cleaned both sprockets. Its in the drivetrain, wheel spins nice with no chain. I guess I'll have to look up how to clean a chain?

Aren't they both 36 spoke?

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=227270

Current hub.

Let me know if there is any specific pics you would like to see.

The one person I know who knows anything about bikes (2000 miles away) saw my thread and said I had the two most knowledgeable people on this site helping me, thanks a bunch guys.

Oh yeah...they are. You should have shopped around. The one you bought was 25 bucks more for the same wheel.

Regarding your pic, that's a Novatec A166 track hub - the same hub I've got on two of my bikes with no chainline issues. I think your chain is just too damn tight.

I did shop around, but I probably paid extra because I wanted a machined lip since my bike has a rear brake. Too bad the wheel I got didn't have a machined lip like the description said, they have since edited their poorly-written description after I gave them a bad review.

I'm surprised to see chains are supposed to be that loose, I've had my chain loosen up on me and it feels so sloppy, but it looks like looser chain it is.

Your chain shouldn't be "loose" but there should be just enough slack in it to prevent your drivetrain from binding and sounding like a chainsaw.

Another possibility is that wheel is not centered properly in the dropouts so it is crooked in the frame. If the rear cog is not parallel to the the front chainring, the chain can catch on the cog teeth and run rough. I have a Kilo WT and the frame alignment is not very good, so I have to play around with the wheel in the dropouts to get good alignment between the cog and chainring. Eyeball the rear wheel from both the front and back of the bike, and it should align with the seatube.

I think I am going to invest in some of those things that go in the dropouts and use bolts to set the chain tension and wheel alignment, I am always fighting with both of these. The 32C tires are too big to see the seat tube from the rear.

My drivetrain sounds like a chainsaw regardless of how loose or tight the chain is, a poorly maintained one at that, lots of pops and grinding as I turn the pedals. It made a little noise with the old wheel/hub, but not like this.

Any drivetrain will be louder when spinning freely than it is when you're actually riding - especially when spinning the pedals backwards. A new hub would have absolutely nothing to do with it, especially if you're using the same cog. Loosen/clean/re-lube your chain and ride your bike.

I'll go give it a shot, thanks so much for putting up with my dumbass n00b questions. :)

No prob, man! :thumb:

Are you using the original Kilo WT fixed cog ? The one that came with mine was a piece of crap, that was very rough running and provided very uneven chain tension.

Nah, it has a Surly 18T on it with a nicer lockring, I forget the brand.

I may start taking the chain off and cleaning it once or twice its lifespan due to how much I ride along the coastal trails and just the sand on the road here. Unless you guys think I shouldn't bother.

In my experience, Surly cogs are some of the loudest on the planet.

Oh, that's good. I don't mind some excess noise as long as it works good, I hear they make decent stuff. I imagine after I clean this chain it will be close to its previous noise level.