Ignorance is not really an explanation

Quote:

Originally Posted by EpicSchwinn

^this

Here's the leader pics/discussion thread if you're interested https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...Leader-love%21

Didn't mean to derail the thread. I'd love a SS/FG that could take me far fast. Just looking for the right place to start.

everyone knows that if your track bike doesn't have dropout plates it will EXPLODE

It's been my experience with other frames such as the specialized langster, that having polished plates on the inside of the dropouts prevents the axle from getting adequate bite and can cause the wheel to slip under heavy torque. If you only ride around flat areas, or use brakes this is probably not a big problem, but if you are skidding down steep hills you really don't want your rear wheel moving around.

I've been wondering the same thing. Anybody else with single sided dropouts and not having problems? Why not just use those dropout saver washers?

I've never had the wheel slip on either my Kagero or my Dodici Gara, both of which have double-sided stainless inserts.

The only time I ever had a wheel slip forward was when using a Phil Wood hub on my Leader 725 - mainly due to the Phil Wood axle hardware. I switched hubs and my wheel never slipped again. If axles aren't slipping all over the place on a steel frame, they're not going to be slipping on an aluminum frame with steel inserts.

I've seen some bikes with single-sided dropous get chewed up pretty bad and unfortunately, not everyone knows how to properly tighten their axle nuts to prevent such damage.

My FTP with it's stainless dropouts slips so much that I don't even both riding it anymore. I just push it around town with the rear wheel on my back making engine noises.

Who says someone can't produce the same amount of torque from a standing start, if not more(carleton)? It also solves getting chewed up dropouts like scrod said for those improperly tightening their wheels.

My kilo, with its solid steel dropouts, has never slipped.

ever.

So is that for or against double sided dropout plates?

I don't think it really matters.

I think it's just a poor argument for them. The wheel slipping? Track bikes were steel before they were anything else.

I'd just say that it isn't necessary. The paint doesnt get chewed up on the inside, cause there isn't anything rotating. On the outside, the axle twists against the metal, messing up paint. On the inside it doesn't.

But if you're gonna do inserts, why wouldn't you plate both sides?

True, preferences.

Now back to Somas and Pakes

fwiw, my Rumrunner had been flawless in performance. no frills and has taken everything i've thrown at it.

trying to justify a French 75 for a Spring build. stable is a little crowded, but i don't currently have an aluminum/carbon trackie.......

This is just a guess, but I'm thinking stainless steel plates would be more slippery than the chromo in a steel bike's dropouts.

Hawt.

At 5 lbs for frame and fork though, I'm not sure why you'd pick it over a steel frameset at the same price point ($425).

Aluminum is trendy...I mean stiffer.

they can be had for 325 shipped with the fork....Still not sure if its worth it.

I'm sure it's worth it.

325 with a carbon fork is hard to argue against. Although Im a bit set on a proper steel frame for the street. Its a bit hard to see the need for aluminum when its just stiffffffffffff.

Can't have that premium rush without carbon and aluminum bro.

Bingo!

There definitely aren't a ton of competitors in the sub $400 aluminum/carbon frameset category. Closest thing to that I can think of is a Leader 721 or a ViSP but neither of those include a carbon fork.

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...49_-1___202389
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...79_-1___202441

dirty and nekkid, just how I like it. I wish there was more info on the frame geo though

edit: nvm I found the geo chart

Yeah, the geo is a bit weird on them - tall seat tubes and short top tubes.