I'm quite amazed - indeed, Hutchinson claims a 80g difference between a tubeless and a regular version of a same-level tire (Atom Vs Atom Comp, Intensive Vs Intensive Hardskin). Never thought about that, but it makes sense.

Checking in, since I had a few flats recently.

The first was on a ride a week or two with my wife. I was running my 2-speed Raleigh cruiser (converted from a diamond frame); the tire was a standard Kenda hybrid tire, 700x32C I think. Typical piece of glass working its way up through the tread and into the tire. This wasn't a flat-proof tire, so there ya go I guess.

The second was on my road bike Saturday night. It's an older bike with 27" x 1" tires. The tires on it are Forte tires (from Performance Bike) with Kevlar belts. I've had them a while and they've never flatted until now. I haven't bothered to change the tire yet (it was going flat as I arrived home). I will report back on that when I figure out where the flat was.

The third was Sunday night. On my hybrid bike with Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (700x35C) I hit a piece of debris that cut a pretty big hole right into the center of the tread, leading to a rapid deflation. The debris did not stay in the tire so I don't know what it was. Whatever it was cut right through the tire as if it wasn't a flatless tire at all, leaving a cut about 1/4" long in both the tire and the tube. I'm starting to think Schwalbe tires aren't all that.

The RibMos (see my earlier post) on my fixie have been great thus fare. Comfortable, tough, grippy in the corners but roll easily in the straights. I plan on replacing my other tires with RibMos as they wear out unless the RibMos start acting up.

Bro, you can use a tube in a tubeless tire. I've run tubeless on my road bike training wheels with converted velocity aeroheads, it's it's the sh*t. I've stsrted carrying a Tube and levers, but I've also put a screwdriver through them, removed it, and lost 10 psi before it sealed.

I don't understand anything you just said.

Bro.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

I just re-read my, post, and I don't even understand. Let me try again.

I've got tubeless on my geared road bike, and the rims I use are Velocity aeroheads, which aren't tubeless specific, but Stan's sells a really awesome conversion kit, that helps you turn any clincher rim into a tubeless.

I'm using Stan's sealant, and it's impressive stuff. I've found glass, thorns and miscelania in my tires, and even then, I've only flatted seriously once, and have finished a ride with a nail in one side of my tire, and out the other, and It was still at full pressure. Only once I took it out did it leak air, and then only about ten PSi before it sealed itself. Pretty cool, no?

Finally, If you do flat in spectacular fashion, you can always just put a regular 700x23c tube in like you would a clincher.

As well, it's pretty much imppossible to pinch flat, and I've only ever "Burped" (Lost seal) on my tires once, and that was a really terrible day.

I'd reccomend tubeless to anyone who doesn't do many skids, because the seal depends a lot on the tire. But It's worth the effort, especially for a winter bike.

That better, bro?

lol.... Isn't tubless REALLY heavy?

Hutchinson Fusion 3 roadtires weigh a ton.

Try 32mm tires with 80psi and you will never go back.

Enh, not too much. ~250g/wheel more than a set of equally priced clinchers.

In my experience, the marathon supreme's flatted a LOT for me. I'm talking an average of every other ride. The plusses were better for me, but the best Schwalbe I've tried so far are the marathon dureme's. Hit my first flat on those at 1,660 miles, the longest I've ever gone without a flat.

I'm a bit sad nobody mentioned Rivendell tires. I picked up a roughy toughy from bike tires direct like 8 months ago and have only had one flat on it on the rear. One time I heard a scratching sound when I was riding, stopped the bike, determined where it was coming from, and pulled a 1/4" long piece of glass out of the tire with no flat. It's super light weight for a 700x28 at only 330ish grams, and has a sexy gum colored sidewall.
Really, everything about the tire is nice from weight, very puncture resistant, tread design, the fact it can hold such a high psi still since 120 seems to be rare for 28s. I'd buy another one in a heart beat, but probably get the step down version for the front since you don't quite need the same level of punture resistance and the rolling resistance will be a bit lower.

waltzing into the thread without reading it

went over a year before I got a flat on gatorskins, probably 800 miles on that set. was in such disbelief when I got my first one last week

At least I understand you a little better, but... I think I'll stick with the old ways.

Just a rebranded Panaracer. Looks like a reasonable price though, and some people like the look of gumwalls.

LOL. You are too naive.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...tire-6875.html

312g for CC. My personal experience with it was more like 330.

And that doesn't include the tubeless valve stem.

That's not that great. I don't get flats on my regular Paselas until the cords start showing at 1,500-1,600 miles/2.5 months on the rear.

I weighed both, and it came to 252g on the rear, and 248g on the front. I'm also using locally made tyres, which is cool.

Just over 500 miles on my Panaracer Pasela 26"x1.75" with no flats. I should run out to the bike rack to see if I just jinxed myself.