Hub quality - from best to worst
#51
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I don't think there is any "best" hubs, there may be some "worst" hubs though like Walmart hubs, but frankly I've never had any of my kids Walmart bikes hubs fail either they just don't spin real well. The reason I say that I don't believe there is any "best" is because I've never had a hub fail, nor knew anybody who has had one fail, and they all spin forever...seemily. I think you have a hub you like due to appearance get it and not worry about it. Hubs are the most reliable bike component besides headsets, either of which rarely fail. I think way too many cyclists get their noses bent out of shape over hubs and headsets.
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What about weight? Most people run high flange hubs on fixed gears which I assume is for looks right? Low flange hubs like the ones in the Wabi wheels would be lighter and the same from a performance perspective.
#53
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Modern alloy high flange track hubs can be lightish weigth and cheap at the same time. A Novatec rear high flange weighs 235 grms or there about. Having a hollow axle helps. Phils are boat anchors , as are Miche hubs.
The lightest hub to my knowledge is a custom Mack low flange hub (145 grms)
The lightest hub to my knowledge is a custom Mack low flange hub (145 grms)
#54
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The Micro 58 weighs 58 grams.
The Rear high flange weighs 180g.
Speaking of, anyone ever ridden AC's? thoughts?
#55
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Theoretically high flanges make the wheel stiffer, but symmetrical track wheels are already stiff enough, so its mostly just for looks. In the old days, the high flange hub allowed you to change a broken spoke without removing the cog. The flange BTW doesn't really add a lot of weight, although it does contribute. The solid bolt-on axle is mostly what make track hubs boat anchors.
#56
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It does make me wonder though, that maybe spoke breakage that still happens today, though not as frequently, could be reduced if high flange hubs were being used? So there may be still some use for them especially if your a clydesdale. Today low flange hubs are in vogue because they do reduce weight a bit more.
Last edited by rekmeyata; 04-05-12 at 02:37 PM.
#57
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For the money, I would get a Mack hub. Bigger bearings, custom drilling and color and a superb finish. Just use a novatec road low flange for the front. Cheap and light (78 grms) and hasn't failed me.
#58
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Curtis Odom showed these at NAHBS. They are beautifully made, and polished stainless shells are an option.
#60
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Yep. $475 per pair (front and rear track hubs). Stainless steel hub bodies are $100 option (per pair).
#63
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Only if I can find worthy rims for them. I'm thinking TB-14. I had a pair of NOS MA-2's but I sold them.
#66
Your cog is slipping.
They're not as sexy as the Electra Sheriff Star knockoffs but they're decent. I was surprised to see that they only weigh 226g front/272g rear including hardware - same as standard Novatecs.
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yeah I like that they're relatively lightweight, look nice and still nice and stiff while being cheap. they also don't have problems shifting around like I swear to MFing god my PW did no matter what I did to it.
#68
Your cog is slipping.
Yeah, my Phil hub always slid forward regardless of how tight I had the bolts.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 04-07-12 at 08:26 AM.
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Not exactly, but close. The bearings in Phil hubs have better seals on them than their after-market bearings. Phil hub bearings are rated to the same levels of water protection as underwater pumps, their after-market bearings are not. If you live and ride in a wet climate this is important, if you live in a dry climate it's not.
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Well shoot me if I ever build a wheelset with those pieces of crap again. Will not stay true. Detensioned and re-tensioned three times, making sure spoke tension was as even as I could make it. Same result. Gorgeous, but overpriced and uber sub-par quality.
#71
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#72
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Not exactly, but close. The bearings in Phil hubs have better seals on them than their after-market bearings. Phil hub bearings are rated to the same levels of water protection as underwater pumps, their after-market bearings are not. If you live and ride in a wet climate this is important, if you live in a dry climate it's not.
you can't replace bearings in phil hubs with bearings as good as the orginials?
you got any evidence to back this up?
seals are for sissies anyhow... a well sealed hub is just gonna be slow. what you need to be tarck fast is loose ball unsealed bearings doused in sewing machine oil. just replace your hubs after every wet ride
#73
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https://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php
Any of our bearings with an “x” in the part number have seals that are as good or better than those found in the highest quality submersible motor and pump bearings.
- PWXR8: Used in our modern front hubs (all) and rear track hubs.~~~~~
- PW000: IRO, Suntour, and Formula hubs (front and rear)
- PW001: Used in our classic hubs
- PW003: Fat Chance, Klein, and Fischer press-fit bottom brackets
- PW802: Rolf, American Classic, White Industries, etc.
- PW803: Campagnolo, American Classic freehubs
- PWX01: Surly hubs (replaces 7901, front and rear)
- PWX02: Our cassette and rear non-track hubs
- PWX03: Used in our standard bottom brackets, Merlin press-fit bottom brackets
- PWX04: 20mm through-axle hubs
- PWX05: Shimano, Raceface, FSA, etc. outboard bearing bottom brackets
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while i am not saying your wrong, that sounds strange...
you can't replace bearings in phil hubs with bearings as good as the orginials?
you got any evidence to back this up?
seals are for sissies anyhow... a well sealed hub is just gonna be slow. what you need to be tarck fast is loose ball unsealed bearings doused in sewing machine oil. just replace your hubs after every wet ride
you can't replace bearings in phil hubs with bearings as good as the orginials?
you got any evidence to back this up?
seals are for sissies anyhow... a well sealed hub is just gonna be slow. what you need to be tarck fast is loose ball unsealed bearings doused in sewing machine oil. just replace your hubs after every wet ride
Errr... you can.
https://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php
Any of our bearings with an “x” in the part number have seals that are as good or better than those found in the highest quality submersible motor and pump bearings.
https://www.philwood.com/products/bearinghome.php
Any of our bearings with an “x” in the part number have seals that are as good or better than those found in the highest quality submersible motor and pump bearings.
- PWXR8: Used in our modern front hubs (all) and rear track hubs.~~~~~
- PW000: IRO, Suntour, and Formula hubs (front and rear)
- PW001: Used in our classic hubs
- PW003: Fat Chance, Klein, and Fischer press-fit bottom brackets
- PW802: Rolf, American Classic, White Industries, etc.
- PW803: Campagnolo, American Classic freehubs
- PWX01: Surly hubs (replaces 7901, front and rear)
- PWX02: Our cassette and rear non-track hubs
- PWX03: Used in our standard bottom brackets, Merlin press-fit bottom brackets
- PWX04: 20mm through-axle hubs
- PWX05: Shimano, Raceface, FSA, etc. outboard bearing bottom brackets