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Originally Posted by track1
(Post 14389185)
where did you order the bike from????
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...t_stripper.htm |
Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14389081)
The lockring on a Kilo is made out melted down aluminum foil and lead fishing weights. Get the $10 steel one from RG, and pick a CroMo cog from RG too, for $16. The stock aluminum cog is trash.
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Nagrom doesn't ride bikes he hangs out on the interwebs all day, if I were you I'd true tension the wheels tighten the crank bolts grease your seatpost headset and hubs, and the cog and locking when you replace them. I have Had a decent experience with my surly cog and lock ring, though they may be a little expensive for what they are. Keep in mind your stock chainring and chain are 3/32 so if you replace the cog or add a freewheel and the replacement is 1/8th inch you will have to buy an 1/8" chain, you can keep the chainring you have and I won't really make a difference.
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14389081)
The lockring on a Kilo is made out melted down aluminum foil and lead fishing weights. Get the $10 steel one from RG, and pick a CroMo cog from RG too, for $16. The stock aluminum cog is trash.
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Thanks for all the input guys I will def be greasing everything when the bike comes and ill inspect regularly. If I suspect issue then I will definitely be replacing the cog and lock ring. I guess ill make a decision when I see it rather the worrying and buying one before the bike even gets here.
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Well there's an easy way to tell if the cog and lockring are steel or aluminium. See if a magnet sticks. If it doesn't, get a scrodcog and lockring. Dun dun dun.
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