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Touring frames & fixies - your 2 cents?
Hi all!
Looking for some clarity here as I've heard valid points from both ends of the spectrum. Here is the deal: I came across a 1985 Miyata two ten (210) earlier this year and I have my heart set on converting it into my first fixie. I'm 6'1 with a 33 inch inseam and the frame is 57.5cm, a hair too small some might argue? When I took the bike into my local bike co-op I was told that the geometry of a touring frame is not best suited for a fixie. I was a bit bummed out to say the least, so I asked for a second opinion from another bike mechanic after seeing numerous 210 fixies online. The second mechanic told me that thinking you cant build a great fixie on a tour frame is "narrow minded", he did agree however that the bike might be a hair small for me, but added that the longer touring frame could make up for that by giving me a more aggressive riding position. His last words to me we're "if I were you I'd keep this bike". So that's where I stand. Two opinions from two reputable mechanics. I hear nothing but good things about the 210 frame (chromoly, triple butted) and It would be great if I could use this frame for my fixie, just so I wouldn't have to waste time selling it and looking for a comparable frame - but perhaps someone more knowledgable than myself on the topic can offer some advice. Thanks for hearing me out! Chat soon, Sunny. |
To convert it, don't you just need a new crank, bb, and a new chain? Oh, and a new set of wheels/back wheel if you want. But that is about it I would say. Anything is possible.
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The only thing I agree with is that the frame MAY be on the small side for you.
You don't necessarily need a new crankset/bottom bracket to get the right chainline. Spacers can be used up front and/or in back to adjust it. Just buy/build the new rear wheel, build up the frame, and see how it works for you. |
keep it, Miyata bikes are wonderful. Fixie is such a general term and saying a touring frame isnt suitable is just stupid. I recently put together a townie fixed gear with an old Fuji frame that might as well be touring frame. It may not be so great for a "go fast" fixed gear but it will be wonderful for anything else.
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I put thousands of miles on a touring frame fixed gear conversion over the last few years. It made a great commuter and an excellent winter bike with 32 c cyclocross tires (studded up front) and fenders.
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That frame looks like it only has 56.5 TT length. You'll most likely need a longer stem to accommodate but it should be workable.
People say that about touring frames because with more relaxed angles and a wider wheelbase the bike is generally going to be less responsive. This effect is increased when riding a fixed wheel because you can't throw the bike around/into corners and let it take a line, you have to give a lot more steering input and actually drive the bike around the corner. This really only matters if you aspire to ride like you're in a Lucas Brunelle video. For the vast majority of just-riding-around riders a touring frame will be fine. You also won't notice unless you go from a steeper geometry to a relaxed geometry. I'd wouldn't worry about any of that. Convert it and ride it, it's a good frame. If I'm understanding this correctly the 210 has the same geometry as the 1000 so it's not listed separately: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img092.jpg |
I think that a lot of you are missing the point. The reason that touring frames are generally not recommended for fixed gear conversions is that the bottom bracket is lower. The reason for this is a lower center of gravity and stability when loaded down. The problem with this when set up fixed gear is that pedal strike is more likely which can result in wiping out and everything that comes with it.
If it were me, especially since you say it might not fit you, I would pass it along and find a different frame that doesn't have a known issue. At the same time, if you are careful it can work fine. Realistically, you are going to be looking at a bottom bracket that is 1-2cm lower than a frame that is track legal. If you really like the frame, build it up and if you can't deal with the pedal strike ride it SS. |
Originally Posted by renton20
(Post 14505091)
I think that a lot of you are missing the point. The reason that touring frames are generally not recommended for fixed gear conversions is that the bottom bracket is lower. The reason for this is a lower center of gravity and stability when loaded down. The problem with this when set up fixed gear is that pedal strike is more likely which can result in wiping out and everything that comes with it.
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The last touring frame I had had a bottom bracket height of 295mm while most road frames are generally around 270. So it's not a hard and a fast rule.
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Originally Posted by renton20
(Post 14505091)
I think that a lot of you are missing the point. The reason that touring frames are generally not recommended for fixed gear conversions is that the bottom bracket is lower. The reason for this is a lower center of gravity and stability when loaded down. The problem with this when set up fixed gear is that pedal strike is more likely which can result in wiping out and everything that comes with it.
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I ride a 55 cm converted '84 LeTour with 170mm cranks. I go slow, i go fast, sometimes I countersteer and really lay the bike down. Haven't a problem with pedal strikes.
I say go for it, just don't cut anything off the frame so it can be built up as a geared bike again. |
Build it if you want but just know that they are sought after so don't make any permanent changes to the frame, like cut off anything. If it's in good shape you may be able to sell it to buy a proper track bike.
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My 2 cents is that if it has cranks that go round and round, and a wheel that goes round and round, it's a candidate for a fixed gear, and will probably be rather enjoyable to ride.
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Thanks so much guys.
Reading your pros and cons, I've decided to keep the touring bike and make it my first fixie. I'm leaving the 210 frame exactly as is (no hacksaw here) and I'm going to be keeping all the original components so I can change it back to its original form if I'm not fond of the ride. Spent most of the day taking apart the bike and polishing it up - it's looking quite sharp under all that dirt and dust! I really appreciate your input and time. The biking community has been amazing so far. Looking forward to getting to know everyone better http://www.fixedvancouver.com/Forums...lies/smile.gif Cheers, Sunny. |
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 14507533)
Not missing the point here -- touring frames don't always have lower bottom brackets, and shorter cranks are a good idea for FG anyway. Plus, the user can always learn how to lean into corners without leaning the bike as much. Do you have trouble with pedal strike?
Originally Posted by Robofunc
(Post 14507642)
I ride a 55 cm converted '84 LeTour with 170mm cranks. I go slow, i go fast, sometimes I countersteer and really lay the bike down. Haven't a problem with pedal strikes.
OP I hope that you do have fun with the project. Take the corners easy and I'm sure you'll be fine. Old Miyatas are awesome and I'm sure it will ride well. |
Fixedgeargallery has a lot of conversions,as far as i know no one has died riding them.
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Thanks friends, I appreciate your feedback :)
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Reading your pros and cons, I've decided to keep the touring bike and make it my first fixie. I'm leaving the 210 frame exactly as is (no hacksaw here) and I'm going to be keeping all the original components so I can change it back to its original form if I'm not fond of the ride. Spent most of the day taking apart the bike and polishing it up - it's looking quite sharp under all that dirt and dust! |
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