Making My First Fixed Gear
 

Hey All

I want to make a fixed gear bike to ride as a banger on campus next semester. The campus commute generally wears on my Allez, so I wanted to save it some hurt by buying and old frame on the cheap and converting it. I've been browsing Craigslist for a while now, and I've come by some frames that fit my size and price range. I was thinking that I could post the links here and I could get some feedback on what frames are A-OK and what frames aren't. Basically all I'm going to do to the frame at this time is strip it and add a flip-flop wheelset. I also love riding fixed gear so here we go:

Cannondale of unknown make and model:
(dropouts look vertical?)
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/bik/3180259785.html

Miyata 112:
(No pictures on link =/)
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/bik/3165945757.html

Miyata Pro:
http://binghamton.craigslist.org/bik/3200987752.html

Trek 1000:
(No pictures on link =/)
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/bik/3197804644.html

Univega Arrow Pace:
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/bik/3132379758.html

What to you guys think about these frames?

The way to "buy an old frame on the cheap" and convert it is to get something that either has minor problems like no tires, or that the seller is ignorant of the potential value. You then remove the geared items and swap out the wheels to fixed.

The initial cost should be less than $75 and preferably less than $50. Wheelset w/tires and cog should be around $200.

Total cost once you're done should be around $200-$250 and will (ideally) net you a very good steel frame with a solid wheelset that will be fun to ride and look somewhat unique in a sea of Kilo TTs.

This approach requires time and luck. I've only had the opportunity to do it twice this year and I live in an active market and spend a lot of time on craigslist. Old road bikes are getting too expensive for this to work as well as it did in the past and it's generally better to just buy new and complete online. You get a new bike, available in different sizes and geometries and you don't have to deal with craigslist idiots.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/trackbikes.htm


TL;DR Buy that Univega, offer $50 and then offer $75.

You are looking at bike in the $150 price range. To convert them in a way that isn't completely ugly will likely cost at least another $50. You could instead buy this or a bikes direct bike or a nashbar cheapo and have a bike with the proper dropouts etc. You should really only convert a bike if you like the bike and want to convert it. Conversions do not end up being the cheapest way to go any more and only make sense if there is something about the frame that appeals to you.

You posted this over at the classic and vintage?

lol.

Two points, but first, thank you both for your input. One, I've been contacting people and offering 40% of their posted price, I've yet to be denied. Two, money isn't really too much of an issue, I want to go through the conversion project for the experience.

Edit: Yeah, they're classic and vintage frames, right?

I would make the same argument even with the "wanting to learn" factor added in. If you want to learn about bikes take them apart and put them back together. You would want to do this with a bikes direct bike anyway. You clearly don't have anything in mind except that you want a cheap craigslist road bike so I really don't see any advantage there.

C and V are usually trying to restore bikes to their original state. They are usually not too pleased when someone f's up a perfectly nice vintage frame for the not-very-good reason of converting it to a fixed gear.

Building a c&v frame as ss/fg doesn't "eff it up."

That pro miyata is waaaay too nice to be a campus beater. You'd be better off converting an old Schwinn world sport or some other lower/mid level frame.

if i ever strike it rich, i will purchase many a road bikes and mutilate them into fixed gears just because people whine about stupid things like that.
hacking off braze on's, cable guides ect... just so that people will cry over stupid ****.

If that 50cm Miyata Pro fits you then that 58cm Univega Arrow probably doesn't, or the converse.

Yes, the C'dale has vert dropouts.

I love the Miyatas and the Univega. A lot of Univegas were made by Miyata, BTW.

I like the Cannondale a lot, and the Trek is OK. The Cannondale and Trek will be a little harsher than the steel rigs, tho.

For the most part I agree with this. I was trying to speak from the perspective of an originalist c & v guy.

If the price is right (probably isn't), I don't see how it's too nice for a campus beater. Why not start his project with a nice frame? It's not like he's converting it to a unicycle (that would "eff it up").

How can you tell the frame size by those pictures?

I might paint or powdercoat (if I can) it eventually, but I like the original frame look.

Oh, NM, when I read "strip" in the OP I thought you were stripping the paint.

Those frame sizes are estimates, but pretty close. Level top tube '80s road bikes are easy to eyeball just by the head tube. If you look at a touring bike it can throw you off, though, since they have taller forks, thus smaller head tubes than the same size roadie.

That Univega practically has a touring rear triangle. I have a long rear triangle bike and it's nice and smooth on rough roads, kinda squishy in the BB area when I stomp on pedals, though.

That Uni has a pretty tall fork, too, that's a big bike.

What do you guys think about a Peugeot UO-8?

The Pro Miyata is a top-of-the-line frame made with triple-butted tubing. It's not going to survive very much "beating." The 112 is a lower-level bike, but still very nice. That'd be more likely to survive university bike racks and such.

A U-08 is going to be very durable, but not super-light. They do have a very nice ride, though.

It's likely going to take a French-threaded bottom bracket, which you'll have to get through someplace like Velo-Orange if you can't re-use the original. It's also likely going to need a French-size stem, which is 1mm narrower than English 1" stems (you can sand down a standard stem--I've done it and it works fine).

If you aren't scared of doing research and test-fitting, the UO-8 is probably the best bet. Inexpensive and bomb-proof, just a touch more challenging to build because of the old French sizing.

Just got a hit for a Dave Scott Centurion.

Pictures:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=267480http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=267481http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=267482

Looks pretty sweet!! Has the right dropouts, is it quality?

Oh Mama, gotta love the Miami Vice Ironmans.

Dropouts are good. Don't mutilate the frame, and don't paint it.

The frame looks 54-ish like you were looking for also.

Out of what you have posted, the Univega or Centurion is what I would convert.

That's a nice bike. I have one and love it. Send me the shifters, derailers and that old wheelset if you take them off ^_^.

See that sticker that sez Tange 1, yep, that's quality.

Alright guys, I want to thank you all for all the input I got, I'm super stoked. I think I'll make a decision on which frame to buy, maybe both, tomorrow and then I'll either make another thread for a proggie (won't be too long) and to ask for advice on things like "what do I use to fix these scratches," etc. If anyone wants to weigh in on what frame I should buy and why, please do.

Thank you again, and goodnight.

The guy selling the Dave Scott Centurion said $50 (without wheels), is that a steal or should I tell him $35 or $40?