This, I think: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sag_wagon#S

That's sorta what I thought, you don't really "get sagged" by the officials; you just drop out for that stage.

Can we get back to the original question? You have a gear ratio that you have been using for years. You want to know what you should change it to for next year?

But you know you are going to get sagged and that's fine. But you want a ratio that won't get you sagged? So it's not fine? Or that will get you sagged?

Is your goal to get as many miles as possible before sagging, or to get those miles as fast as possible before sagging?

Is there a training question here somewhere?

This summer a group of four of my friends rode from SF to LA fixed over four days along the coastline. They all rolled on a lower-70s gear inch ratio. I feel this talk of bringing an extra chainring/cog/chain is overkill and over thought.

You can drop out anytime during the day; you get bussed and your bike get trucked to that night's campsite.

The route closes in the late afternoon, and if you haven't yet made it to camp when the caboose comes along, you and your bike get transported to camp. So, yes; you do get sagged by the officials when the route closes.

Totally off the topic of gearing, but I've got a friend who does the AIDS Lifecycle ride every year, and I think it would be a great to try before too long. :thumb:

Ok, thanks for the input, it's been very enlightening.

Well, if one is going to do something like this why not get a SA 3 sp fixed rig? Even w/all the bad reviews it ought to hold up for 545 miles, don't cha think? It would be alot simpler, though it may weigh more. Get some good hardcase tires like Gatorskins and off you go.

Or you can HTFU, stay w/46x16 and do switchbacks on the climbs. No shame in that game.

Btw, I did a metric century organized ride once on my fg w/some 18% climbs. Everyone else had rbs. Just did switchbacks and it was all good.

Yeah, I'd say the 15/19 set-up or the S3X would be your best choices. I have an S3X, and this type of riding is really when it shines. For example, I've only done city riding the past month, and haven't shifted even once (but then, I haven't gone into SF this month), and really don't feel a need to. But when I head out on hilly roads with mile-long grades outside urban areas, the extra gears do come in handy. Personally, I'm not a fan of flipping the wheel and adjusting the chain during rides, which is why I got the S3X when I knew I was moving to CA from the East Coast. If I'm gonna wimp out, it might as well be convenient...

There are some new S3X's on Ebay for $99 with free shipping. Fancy colors too.

Not really a training question I'm well aware of what my training regimen will be, pretty much the Mill Valley/Muir Beach/Stinson beach loop in the headlands and I imagine that will be tougher than anything I see from here to LA. I was just hoping for some input as to what anyone might suggest to put on the fixed/fixed to pair with my 46t to ideally be able to finish stages and it appears that the general consensus is a 15 and 18 or 19.

15t and 17t

I have to confess that I've never actually flipped the wheel mid-ride. Generally, if I know that I'll be doing a slower pace (gravel ride, or one with less hardcore riders), then I'll flip to the bigger cog in the convenience of my home, where I can take my time getting the chain tension just right. :o

It's actually pretty easy. Nose wheelie down a big hill. Quick release helps but is not necessary. This helps too:

http://i.imgur.com/w7wdR.png