Any obvious problems with this for conversion
#1
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Any obvious problems with this for conversion
Hey,
So I am a little new to mechanics of bikes and have been struggling to find a decent off the rack offering without ordering from abroad here. I spotted this on a local used bikes classified the other day for around $150
Is there any reason why I couldn't just install a fixed hub (it has an 18T freewheel at the moment) and some foot retention and be good to go? I would possibly change out the bars too. The frame is apparently an old Favourit frame, not sure why he did it up with cannondale on it. Only other info I have is Remerx Rims and Schwalbe Lugano 25x700 tires.
Any feedback and suggestions on a replacement hub/pedals would be nice.
Cheers,
Mark
So I am a little new to mechanics of bikes and have been struggling to find a decent off the rack offering without ordering from abroad here. I spotted this on a local used bikes classified the other day for around $150
Is there any reason why I couldn't just install a fixed hub (it has an 18T freewheel at the moment) and some foot retention and be good to go? I would possibly change out the bars too. The frame is apparently an old Favourit frame, not sure why he did it up with cannondale on it. Only other info I have is Remerx Rims and Schwalbe Lugano 25x700 tires.
Any feedback and suggestions on a replacement hub/pedals would be nice.
Cheers,
Mark
#2
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No problems. What does this mean:
Is there any reason why I couldn't just install a fixed hub (it has an 18T freewheel at the moment)
Do you mean fixed cog?
Is there any reason why I couldn't just install a fixed hub (it has an 18T freewheel at the moment)
Do you mean fixed cog?
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Yeah, sorry, I am translating his description with google translate, it currently has (according to google translate) a '18T freewheel sprocket', slowly backs away from silly question asking. Think he is saying it has vertical drop outs now though which is making me reconsider anyway, hmm.
#4
Your cog is slipping.
That frame looks like it has forward facing horizontal dropouts to me, which is fine.
You need to find out if the rear hub is a flip-flop - having threads for a freewheel on one side and for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Judging by the use of a quick release skewer, I'm assuming it does not.
You need to find out if the rear hub is a flip-flop - having threads for a freewheel on one side and for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Judging by the use of a quick release skewer, I'm assuming it does not.
#5
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That frame looks like it has forward facing horizontal dropouts to me, which is fine.
You need to find out if the rear hub is a flip-flop - having threads for a freewheel on one side and for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Judging by the use of a quick release skewer, I'm assuming it does not.
You need to find out if the rear hub is a flip-flop - having threads for a freewheel on one side and for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Judging by the use of a quick release skewer, I'm assuming it does not.
I wouldn't recommend this for a brakeless bike, because its remotely possible that the cog will come loose if you backpedal hard enough and/or don't tighten the cog enough. This is known as a suicide hub, but as long as the two brakes on the bike are functional you will still have the means to stop, so not a big deal. You can use red loctite for added security, but its not really necessary.
Is the rear hub is a freehub (i.e. the freewheel mechanism is in the hub itself), you will need a new wheel.
Can you post a close up of the hub?
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That frame looks like it has forward facing horizontal dropouts to me, which is fine.
You need to find out if the rear hub is a flip-flop - having threads for a freewheel on one side and for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Judging by the use of a quick release skewer, I'm assuming it does not.
You need to find out if the rear hub is a flip-flop - having threads for a freewheel on one side and for a fixed cog and lockring on the other. Judging by the use of a quick release skewer, I'm assuming it does not.
'The bike has
freewheel hub and brakes. Frame and all components are new. It has
been only tested if it is OK. Do you want to see it? I tried to choose
the better brands such as Fy:zik, Schwalbe..I send you larger photo.
'
Which didn't really say. presuming I have to change the hub and add a fixed cog and lockring i think i am ok with doing so, anyone recommend a decent set up in that case? I don't mind spending even another $200 just to get it up and running, in all honesty I would rather buy off the rack as I am very knew to all this and don't have any local advice readily available, seems I also don't have any local source of off the rack fixies unfortunately either. Language barrier is a ***** too.
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If it is indeed a freewheel hub, not a freehub, you can take off the freewheel and install a fixed cog on the same threads via the rotafix method (without a lockring)...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qIVEpyelP0
I wouldn't recommend this for a brakeless bike, because its remotely possible that the cog will come loose if you backpedal hard enough and/or don't tighten the cog enough. This is known as a suicide hub, but as long as the two brakes on the bike are functional you will still have the means to stop, so not a big deal. You can use red loctite for added security, but its not really necessary.
Is the rear hub is a freehub (i.e. the freewheel mechanism is in the hub itself), you will need a new wheel.
Can you post a close up of the hub?
I wouldn't recommend this for a brakeless bike, because its remotely possible that the cog will come loose if you backpedal hard enough and/or don't tighten the cog enough. This is known as a suicide hub, but as long as the two brakes on the bike are functional you will still have the means to stop, so not a big deal. You can use red loctite for added security, but its not really necessary.
Is the rear hub is a freehub (i.e. the freewheel mechanism is in the hub itself), you will need a new wheel.
Can you post a close up of the hub?
If you want to run a suicide hub, there ought to be a BB lockring on it. Otherwise you're should price out a new hub... and a new set of teeth.
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Seems like I posted a dumb question before I read yours. I will check with him if he can send me a close up. I am fine to change the rear wheel if need be though so I guess I am probably going to pick it up, would definitely be running brakes as I am new to fixed gear riding (and probably would anyway). thanks for the help
#9
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It has huge amounts of clearance, which is nice if you want huge tires and fenders, otherwise it just makes the bike flexier which is not desirable in a fixed gear frame.
And you have to use long reach brakes, which really dont generate the same power as a good set of short reach brakes.
Also, since it appears to have touring geometry, the bottom bracket is probably low, meaning greater risk of pedal strikes.
The bike is probably worth $150 for the parts, but it you need to shell out money to convert it then you will end up spending more than its worth. You can get a new fixed gear bike with much more appropriate parts and appropriate geometry for not much more money.
#10
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Seriously? Installing it without any lockring, and it's remotely possible the cog will come loose? You are spewing dangerous information here, man.
If you want to run a suicide hub, there ought to be a BB lockring on it. Otherwise you're should price out a new hub... and a new set of teeth.
If you want to run a suicide hub, there ought to be a BB lockring on it. Otherwise you're should price out a new hub... and a new set of teeth.
A BB lockring is nearly worthless in a suicide setup. Loctite is unnecessary.You can torque the wheel with your hands far more than you ever can with your drive train. Its not ideal, but if you ride with brakes (and use them), its hardly dangerous.
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While that is a fairly nice looking bike, that frame isn't exactly an ideal fixed gear frame.
It has huge amounts of clearance, which is nice if you want huge tires and fenders, otherwise it just makes the bike flexier which is not desirable in a fixed gear frame.
And you have to use long reach brakes, which really dont generate the same power as a good set of short reach brakes.
Also, since it appears to have touring geometry, the bottom bracket is probably low, meaning greater risk of pedal strikes.
The bike is probably worth $150 for the parts, but it you need to shell out money to convert it then you will end up spending more than its worth. You can get a new fixed gear bike with much more appropriate parts and appropriate geometry for not much more money.
It has huge amounts of clearance, which is nice if you want huge tires and fenders, otherwise it just makes the bike flexier which is not desirable in a fixed gear frame.
And you have to use long reach brakes, which really dont generate the same power as a good set of short reach brakes.
Also, since it appears to have touring geometry, the bottom bracket is probably low, meaning greater risk of pedal strikes.
The bike is probably worth $150 for the parts, but it you need to shell out money to convert it then you will end up spending more than its worth. You can get a new fixed gear bike with much more appropriate parts and appropriate geometry for not much more money.
Thanks, this is what I needed to hear, much appreciated. just to clarify I used dollar amounts to make it easier for you guys, I am actually based in the south of the Czech Republic, been scouring the local bike shops for any that stock fixed gear and single speeds, seems none of them do (and there is a **** load of bike shops :-(). Vienna seems to have a few which is close by but they are very pricey and seem to be mainly designer bikes and customs which is not really what I am looking for due to the expense. Might just have to go mail order from elsewhere in Europe I fear. Unless I can find a better frame for cheap to convert. That or see if I can find a specialist shop in Prague maybe.
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Yeah, Charles Bronson rides a suicide hub...
A BB lockring is nearly worthless in a suicide setup. Loctite is unnecessary.You can torque the wheel with your hands far more than you ever can with your drive train. Its not ideal, but if you ride with brakes (and use them), its hardly dangerous.
A BB lockring is nearly worthless in a suicide setup. Loctite is unnecessary.You can torque the wheel with your hands far more than you ever can with your drive train. Its not ideal, but if you ride with brakes (and use them), its hardly dangerous.
#13
Your cog is slipping.
Seriously? Installing it without any lockring, and it's remotely possible the cog will come loose? You are spewing dangerous information here, man.
If you want to run a suicide hub, there ought to be a BB lockring on it. Otherwise you're should price out a new hub... and a new set of teeth.
If you want to run a suicide hub, there ought to be a BB lockring on it. Otherwise you're should price out a new hub... and a new set of teeth.
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It's the other side of the hub you're interested in. Should be two sets of threads, one slightly smaller than the other. Those let you run a fixed cog and thread a lockring onto the smaller set of threads. If there are no threads or only one set, you need to either do a ghetto-fab suicide hub or get a hub with proper threads.
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Damn, guess I will just go have a look at it, thanks for the heads up on what to look for. To be honest I may just buy and ride it as is, there isn't much good weather left here this year, maybe 2 months and hopefully I can find a fixie for next spring. Thanks for all the advice everyone.
#19
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For a bit more you can find a better bike. That thing is cheap all around and I wouldn't pay $150 for it
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#21
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If its that hard to find a bike in your area, and if you think you can recover all or most of your money, jut buy the bike and ride it as is (or with a rotafixed cog) until you find something better. Riding is better than sitting around and waiting.
#22
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