Milwaukee Bicycle lockring compatibility problem
 

I've bought Milwaukee Bicycle lockring and realize that I can't put it on a standard formula hub. It seems like it's "bites" the thread for 1/4 of the turn and then stops. I do not want to force it with tools, but I can't turn it further by hands. Both hub and lockring are brand new, I've tried my old cheap lockrings and they are working fine with the hub. What is it - bad lockring or incompatible threading? I'm assuming that formula lockring thread is 1.29" x 24 tpi but can't find milwaukee lockring specs. Does anyone else have same problem with MB lockring?

P.S. I'm perfectly aware that lockring thread is left-handed. Just saying...

It's probably that campy/phil threading. I forgot the standard, but it ain't right.

Could you elaborate please? Do you mean that it's metric thread while formula track is tpi, which is imperial ? I was not aware about any metric threads on fixed hubs. Even campi and phil wood uses 1.370 x 24 tpi which is imperial as well.

The hub is 1.29" x 24 tpi.

The lockring is 1.375" x 24 tpi.

one google away, you could try just a lil harder...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-fl...track_bicycles

No. The OP is referring to the lockring thread on a track hub. 1.370 x 24tpi is the cog threading, not the lockring threading. For lockrings, Campagnolo/Phil uses 1.32 x 24tpi (L), while ISO is 1.29 x 24tpi (L), as Scrod stated.

Please forgive my dumbness, but I still do not have a clear understanding of the problem.
So,
1. Formula hub lockring threading is 1.29" x 24 tpi. It's NOT a campi/phil 1.32x24
2. MB lockring is machined to ISO specifications
3. I.S.O. thread size is 1.29" x 24 tpi

Am I missing something?

a couple screws.

I am using a mke lockring on a formula hub.

You are probably cross threading it? But if I remember correctly, I did have to give it a little nudge with a tool to get it going.

It the hub new? It may not have the best machining to begin with.

Yes, this is a new hub. As I sad, I've tried my old lockrings and they work on it without any effort.

Diff, how much force did you apply?

Then use one of your old lockrings. Problem solved.

Holy crap; how did you do that?

I'm a professional.

They are old lockrings, it might affect my speed and pace and introduce some drag and change balance of the bike.

Not a lot of force. Just grease it up and make sure it's not cross threaded and you should be fine.

But if your other lockring works, just use that. Don't want to be responsible for you ruining your new hub. But I do have a MKE lockring on my orgin 8 velomine formula hubs. I have had 2 on there in fact.

On a side note. I did a super idiot move the other night. Was dark, in a garage, distracted. Went to rotafix a cog off and put the wrong side on (side that had a lockring). It moved. But took my idiot brain 2 times to realize that wasn't a normal feeling. Can't get the lockring off to see what happened to the threads. I'm sure its stripped. Broke both tips off my hozan tool (completely cracked off), and my pliers have some nasty marks. Can care less about that side of the hub to be honest, but want that cog off. Gonna take it to my lbs and see what they can do to get it off.

:lol:

There cogs are nice but having owned and used a Milwaukee lockring I wouldn't ever use one again.

What didn't you like about them?

They are nice and thick so cover all the threads. They are super hardened too it seems. The only thing I don't like about them is the notches aren't flush with the cog so will cause your tool to slip easier. But then again I now realize there is no need to tighten them as much as I have in the past.

the big thing I didn't like was the size of the ring and the fact that it galls to the hub if you don't take it off regularly... it was made for real track riders who change their cogs often not fixie riders who decide on a set drive train and leave it.

:thumb:

...I don't follow you.

Congrats. This is the most ridiculous thing I've read here in a while.

Agreed. I'm trying to understand, but I just don't get it.