ITT: We talk about the Nashbar Nekkid SS/FG frame and subsequent build.
11-09-12, 06:52 PM
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ITT: We talk about the Nashbar Nekkid SS/FG frame and subsequent build.
TL;DR Nice frame, buy this instead of the Superb Sprint. They're probably made in the same factory.
I recently cracked the bottom bracket shell on my fixed conversion and decided that it was finally time to buy a bike with a somewhat more appropriate design for fixed riding. Or at least track ends. I went down to my LBS and test rode like 15-20 carbon track prototypes but couldn't really find the ultimate frame so I decided to just buy something off the internet.
Since I'm poor; my choices were the KiloTT frame from BikeIsland or the Nashbar Nekkid. I sold my soul to Bitech a few months ago so I opted for the Nekkid frame with carbon Nashbar fork. Both would retail for around $200 and I think they're both good options for an entry level road fixed frame.
Searching this forum gives only a small amount of info on the Nekkid. Like lots of cheap frames it has a somewhat hit or miss reputation so if anyone else has experience, please share.
Here's my example. Welds look ok, very typical of aluminum frames from China. The ones on the track ends are especially ugly, in part because the angles between the ends and the stays are compromised since this basic frame is also reworked as a road frame. Facing is good but there are some machining marks and dings outside of the contact points. Spacing was good, dropout plates fit fine, all threading is sharp and clean. Overall pretty good, especially so considering the price. The anodizing is nice and clean with no wrinkles or uneven spots, but it is a very thin and weak type II anodizing. The same coating used on a plethora of other cheap aluminum goods, tends to scratch, flake and chip off very easily.
Build in progress. The frame went together very well, no issues.
Still fine tuning the fit. As built this is right at 19 pounds.
This frame is very tall, if you're considering it be sure to size based entirely on the top-tube.
Geometry-wise it rides very well. Has somewhat of a relaxed wheelbase and head angle but it is very stiff and responsive under acceleration. Compared to a more trackish geometry you definitely have to muscle it around turns some but it's only a minor difference. I'm blown away at how much nicer the ride is with a carbon fork vice a steel frame/fork. I've been hesitant to switch to aluminum but after having some time on this bike I wish I would have done it earlier. It's noticeably less flexy and responds much quicker.
The Nashbar Carbon fork comes with a rake of 43mm, given the rest of the geometry for the Nekkid frame the combination produces a trail of about 62mm. Depending on your preference this is good for general road riding, should produce a neutral ride that gives to input very well.
Kilo TT:
Nekkid (BB height for the Nekkid is somewhat low at around 275ish mm with 25c tires, wheel base is around 995mm.)
Overall, for around $200, I like it a lot. It's butted 6061, so it's not the greatest thing in the world but it seems to be made well-enough and rides very well.
Note the intersection of the top of the track end and the seatstay. Ugh, gross.
I recently cracked the bottom bracket shell on my fixed conversion and decided that it was finally time to buy a bike with a somewhat more appropriate design for fixed riding. Or at least track ends. I went down to my LBS and test rode like 15-20 carbon track prototypes but couldn't really find the ultimate frame so I decided to just buy something off the internet.
Since I'm poor; my choices were the KiloTT frame from BikeIsland or the Nashbar Nekkid. I sold my soul to Bitech a few months ago so I opted for the Nekkid frame with carbon Nashbar fork. Both would retail for around $200 and I think they're both good options for an entry level road fixed frame.
Searching this forum gives only a small amount of info on the Nekkid. Like lots of cheap frames it has a somewhat hit or miss reputation so if anyone else has experience, please share.
Here's my example. Welds look ok, very typical of aluminum frames from China. The ones on the track ends are especially ugly, in part because the angles between the ends and the stays are compromised since this basic frame is also reworked as a road frame. Facing is good but there are some machining marks and dings outside of the contact points. Spacing was good, dropout plates fit fine, all threading is sharp and clean. Overall pretty good, especially so considering the price. The anodizing is nice and clean with no wrinkles or uneven spots, but it is a very thin and weak type II anodizing. The same coating used on a plethora of other cheap aluminum goods, tends to scratch, flake and chip off very easily.
Build in progress. The frame went together very well, no issues.
Still fine tuning the fit. As built this is right at 19 pounds.
This frame is very tall, if you're considering it be sure to size based entirely on the top-tube.
Geometry-wise it rides very well. Has somewhat of a relaxed wheelbase and head angle but it is very stiff and responsive under acceleration. Compared to a more trackish geometry you definitely have to muscle it around turns some but it's only a minor difference. I'm blown away at how much nicer the ride is with a carbon fork vice a steel frame/fork. I've been hesitant to switch to aluminum but after having some time on this bike I wish I would have done it earlier. It's noticeably less flexy and responds much quicker.
The Nashbar Carbon fork comes with a rake of 43mm, given the rest of the geometry for the Nekkid frame the combination produces a trail of about 62mm. Depending on your preference this is good for general road riding, should produce a neutral ride that gives to input very well.
Kilo TT:
Nekkid (BB height for the Nekkid is somewhat low at around 275ish mm with 25c tires, wheel base is around 995mm.)
Overall, for around $200, I like it a lot. It's butted 6061, so it's not the greatest thing in the world but it seems to be made well-enough and rides very well.
Note the intersection of the top of the track end and the seatstay. Ugh, gross.
Last edited by Spoonrobot; 11-10-12 at 07:39 PM.
11-09-12, 09:38 PM
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Neat, I'm building up a Kilo OS myself. Yeah, the one with the double top tubes that gets some **** on the forums here. I'm not putting red powdercoat rims on it though.
The frame color looks nice, shame it probably won't last. And that seatpost is kinda hot. What kind is it?
The frame color looks nice, shame it probably won't last. And that seatpost is kinda hot. What kind is it?
11-09-12, 10:11 PM
#3
Still kicking.
Not bad.
Give an A for ingenuity with using a trainer and a phone book for assembly.
Give an A for ingenuity with using a trainer and a phone book for assembly.
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11-10-12, 07:16 AM
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The seatpost is just the Performance house-brand Forte Team Alloy model with the black anodizing stripped off. I think the logo is silkscreened on or something. It wouldn't sand off nor was it removed by the oven cleaner, which generally takes off everything.
Here's some pictures of a 26c tire in the frame. Clearance from the brake bridge is 8mm, clearance from the chainstay bridge is 14mm. So, def 32s, maybe 35s?
11-14-12, 08:45 AM
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Nice one! One of my friends got one of these when Nashbar was blowing them out for $75. Built it up as a daily beater and loves it.
Also:
Also:
11-14-12, 02:54 PM
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I've only had a chance to weigh it using a very coarse digital scale that displays increments in pounds and half-pounds only. So it's somewhere between 19.0 and 19.5 pounds complete.
Bar tape is just dirty old Deda logo tape, pretty typical synthetic cork type. I've got to run new cable and housing for the front brake so I'm waiting to install new tape until that's done.
12-26-12, 02:54 PM
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Does that trainer work with track on bolts? Or are you just using it as a stand?
12-26-12, 03:13 PM
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It can be a slightly more wobbly than the set-up with the appropriate skewer but it's not really noticeable and hasn't created any issues so far.
12-26-12, 03:52 PM
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12-26-12, 04:12 PM
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Yup.
But the vast majority of trainers I've seen will work just the same with track nuts. We don't stock Kinetic anymore so I'm not sure about them but the Cycleops, TravelTrac and so forth all have similar mounting profiles.
But the vast majority of trainers I've seen will work just the same with track nuts. We don't stock Kinetic anymore so I'm not sure about them but the Cycleops, TravelTrac and so forth all have similar mounting profiles.
12-26-12, 04:21 PM
#14
Your cog is slipping.
I usually thread on an extra set of track nuts on the protruding ends of my axles (in addition to the existing ones) to keep my "real" track nuts from getting marred and rounded off by the clamp on the trainer.
10-22-14, 07:18 PM
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Oof.
10-22-14, 07:55 PM
#18
Still kicking.
That stinks.
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10-23-14, 05:05 PM
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I've only had a chance to weigh it using a very coarse digital scale that displays increments in pounds and half-pounds only. So it's somewhere between 19.0 and 19.5 pounds complete.
Bar tape is just dirty old Deda logo tape, pretty typical synthetic cork type. I've got to run new cable and housing for the front brake so I'm waiting to install new tape until that's done.
Yes, the welds are hideous but the bike isn't likely to explode on you so no biggie. Hold the phone, Batman! I just scrolled down to see that horrendous failure near the bottom bracket.
Only one thing to say about that:
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