SS to fixed on roadbike question.
 

Do I have to get a new wheel with a fixed hub to go fixed gear on my roadie SS, or is there some way to ghetto rig it? I don't necessarily want fixed all the time, but would like to give it a try. Thought about installing a cog towards the spokes and simply use multiple zip ties through it to the spokes to give it a try. Bad idea?

I really hope you're trolling... If you do try that, you'll end up needing a new wheel anyhow, and a new face most likely. Just get a new wheel. It's cheaper in the long run.

very bad.

You're up the creek.

I'm just going to ignore the bit about the zip ties.

If it's an older road bike with a threaded freewheel(and not a cassette), you can thread a track cog onto it and a bottom bracket lockring to try it out.

Sure, you can do that. Just remember not to ever put any back-pressure on the cranks.

That was my thoughts, just for a short trial to see what it feels like. Guess I'll have to shop around for a cheap wheel. Thanks for the input folks :)

+1, works and is safe

PLEASE DONT DO THIS
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...pic4020695.jpg

It's safe as long as you don't try to skid or resist stop. Also, that picture can't be real. Seriously?

Why is everyone so deathly afraid of things they haven't tried?

I've got a "suicide" hub on my brakeless (gasp!) beater and the cog has never loosened up - even when I've been trying to break the damn thing.

U dont bust hard enuff mad skidz if u cant brake it.

I've always been told that suicide hubs have that name for a reason.

Do you believe everything you've ever been told?

No, which is why we don't believe you. Pow.

Boom.

And no, I don't. However, the physics behind it make sense. If it didn't have to have a reverse-threaded lockring to be safe, then why did they start doing that, and why do most people recommend that you don't do it?

I'm doing this now. It works.
Great way to reuse a wheelset I almost sold, so glad I didn't.

I've got some decent 27" wheels/tires/freewheels laying around, I'll have to see if they will fit on the bike without giving my problems with the brakes. Be the cheapest way to see if I like a fixed gear as long as I can make the chainline work otherwise I'll just get the proper setup. Won't happen till spring anyhow.
:thumb:

I got the wheel redished to get the chainline. Not a big deal.

Dude, this has already been talked about way too much on this forum and you've been around long enough to know that. "Most people" have no real world experience and are just playing a game of Telephone.

That is true. Fine. On my next day off, if I remember, I'll toss a cog on the freewheel side of my hub and go for a ride.

Found a 700c wheel with a threaded hub in my shed :) Guess I'll be going to the shop to check it on the truing stand and see what he has for gears. Thanks for the idea!

Life lessons from Scrod. This really is true; we should always be aware of why we believe certain things.

Comng from a track racing background, I have NEVER used a lockring, even on the road. Back in the 70's, my first track coach, an ex-Euro-6-day pro, told us never to backpedal to slow down. On the track, it's too sudden. (You control speed by using the banking.) So if you're using a road frame with 120 rear spacing, just center the old-style threaded road hub so you don't need to dish the wheel (which may require redishing to center the rim), insert a 2mm spacer and then the track cog (to get the chainline), and just make sure you tighten the cog with a chain whip (or a real cog remover if you're really cool). If you have 126 spacing and a 126 hub, good luck. You will find that the axle length is too long to support riders over 170 lbs, and you'll end up breaking axles. This is why they went to cassettes.

I think skid stops are stupid. I've been riding fixed for over 40 years and have never needed to backpedal; the brakes work way better (or on the track you just float until you come to a gradual stop). If the chain falls off on a descent and gets caught, the cog merely unthreads. If it's secured with a lock ring, the rear wheel locks up and now you've got to control some serious fish-tailing. If you ever watch those videos of tandems crashing on the track, it's due to using lock rings!

If you really must do skid stops, then get a real track hub with a real lock ring. A bottom bracket lock ring will fit a threaded freewheel hub, but you will find that both cog and lockring unthread together. This is why they invented reverse-threaded stepped lockrings.

Luis

Thanks for the informative post Luis :) 163 pounds here so just under that 170 thresh-hold! I didn't figure I'd be back pedalling anyways, the brakes stop on a dime so I don't see the point?.

Got it together last night. Like mentioned I centered the wheel then was lucky enough all the spokes loosened up so I could redish it to center in the frame. I put a lockring behind the gear to space it out, and then moved the chaingear to the inside of the crankarm and it all seems to line up nicely, although there wasn't enough room to install a locnut for the gear. Tightened it up as much as I could with a chainwhip, and will take 'er slow for awhile and see if tries to walk the gear off or not. If it does I suppose I will have to use a more thin spacer behind the gear, and space the chaingear over a bit as well so I can get enough room for a locnut. The two minutes I putted around in the driveway with it in the dark was much different than I had expected. Looking forward to trying it on the road, in the daylight, and with my helmet on :)

Could you explain this please. There is something I am not understanding.

Are you saying that bikes with 126 spacing not suitable for riders over 170 lbs. For example an old road bike with 126 spacing and a 6 speed freewheel.

Or is it when you re-space the hub (center it usually) that it becomes weaker?