Novice looking for first fixed gear
 

Hello,

I've done a bit of reading but have probably over thought a few things and am now interested in getting some feedback on my thoughts.

Over the past few weeks i've put over 60 miles on a pos Mongoose XR-75 mtb in 12-15 mile increments at 12-15 mph. My goals are to work up to riding ~40 mile increments at decent speeds.

I am new to road cycling and am basically looking for a means of getting back in shape as i've let myself go as of late. Right now this is more of an interest than anything else and I would like to stick to this for a few months before diving in head first as it's real easy to get excited about something and not maintain consistent effort.

First question:
I following the Fit Calculator's instructions and got the results below. I am assuming I need a 56mm bike and a 58mm will also work? is this correct.
Second question:
From what i understand on a budget bike i should make sure to get a decent frame, wheels and crank? I would hate to go crazy and buy an expensive bike and not continue to ride, basically wasting money. Instead, i would like to buy a budget bike and see how it goes over the next few months.

I've read a bit and understand the Kilo is the entry bike of choice but id "prefer" to spend a lot less on a bike for now. As if this is something that becomes more of a lifestyle for me i would like to get a really nice quality bike and i understand you get what you pay.

I've noticed bikesdirect has a few bikes on Black Friday special and even has the Gravity Swift for $229 shipped and a few other modes in the ~$300 shipped price range.

Would this (gravity swift) be a decent entry level bike for ~20-40 mile trips for a few months?
Also does anyone know if these bikes can be seen at local bike shops or are they bikesdirect exclusive?

Only reason i havent visited a local shop so far is because i would like to be a little more educated before going as to know what i want.

Any advice and recommendations will be welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Remeasure, your trunk measurement looks off.

inseam + trunk ≈ sternal notch

yours is off buy almost a foot.

Thanks, first post updated.

is ~$300 your budget?

Yes, ~$300 range is where im at; however, as mentioned above if i can get a bike for less on a black friday deal, even better.

I understand it can get annoying when people come on and ask for a race ready bike but only want to spend $100...

I am just looking for something that will hold up long enough for me to a) make sure this is something i want to really dive head first into & b) long enough for me to gain some experience in order to know what i am looking for in the next bike should i proceed.

Honestly, you'd be fine on the Swift. Comes with brakes, both fixed and single speed, decent wheelset, sealed bottom bracket, etc.
and it's at a great price point.


I'd put you on the size 61, based on the top tube. Make sure your measurements are correct. Measure twice, buy once.

Thanks a lot for your feed back.

Is there somewhere/link where i can learn more about the geo related lingo, etc...? For example, i'm a bit confused how the measurements directly relate to what bike i should get, etc...

The only thing that has been clear are the height by frame size measurements on bikesdirect.

** i'll remeasure with some help later.

Yeah, forget anything about height, inseam is usually irrelevant. The top tube measurement is what matters most. Here are the figures they're talking about:
http://www.performancebike.com/image...ameDiagram.gif

Top tube length is the effective distance of a horizontal line from the seat tube to the head tube.
Seat tube length (c-t (center to top)) is the distance between the center of the bottom bracket, to the top of the seat tube. c-c (center to center) is the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the point where the top tube intersects with the seat tube.

All of the other figures can be changed by moving things; saddle setback, saddle height, stem length, etc, can all be altered after you get the bike.

The most important figure when doing a basic fit is the top tube length, which is a factor of your reach. You can raise/lower the saddle all you want, but its a lot more difficult to change your reach.

Inseam should only really be considered if something is a little strange. If you don't clear the top tube by like 4 inches, that's an issues. It usually isn't though.

@Nagrom,

Thanks a lot as the measurements are starting to make sense.

If for nothing more than to end this thread.

I decided to go to a local bike shop to get properly fitted, etc... Figured the annoyance of possibly ordering the wrong bike or a bike that would not fit would be worth not being a cheap a**.

I test drove a fuji feather and an 09 Giant 72. Opted for the 72.

Based on inseam measurements the M (55.4 t/t) should have been the right fit but it was too small for me and the L (58.6 t/t) felt perfect.

Thanks for the help.

sweet! now your next stop should be here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...os-(2011-2012) to add some pics of your new new whip. :D

A 56mm bike might be a bit too small.