NM, you already found mine. I forgot I posted it :) . My frame is an old racer so the geometry was not that lax. Not track tight but tighter than my current road bike. I think the rake is 43mm but I could be wrong. I'll take some closer pics of the proximity of the front wheel and the pedal. Keep in mind that I have 25's on this one so the tire is a little larger than most.

40mm is pretty much the standard road geom these days. Even straight blade replacement forks will cant the crown angle to give you 40mm of effective rake.

Also, remember that more rake, not less, makes the ride more responsive. Reducing the rake increases trail which makes your ride more stable.

thanks for the clarification, boston. ive got a bad habit of skimming through technical stuff :o

just got back from the LBS, checking around for cheap forks, no luck. still debating the bikeworks fork--its cheap at $57.00+shipping but only if you have a headset to match. another member bought this fork and said that the crown race is 27mm, not 26.4 and he had to go out and buy another headset. a new headset brings the total cost for using this fork closer to $100.00.

If there's enough material, you can have your LBS mill the crown race to 26.4.

You can have the diameter of the crown race cut down. It cost me $5 at my LBS. He said it was a standard thing to do with new forks. He cut it to size for my 105 headset in about 5 min.

Edit: Mill wold be a better term than cut it down...

Actually it's machining. Milling requires a mill, but you can machine without a mill (at least that's my take). And yeah, it's pretty cheap. Cost me $3 to machine my fork crown...paint. (Ok, I had some paint on there but I didn't realize it was enough to change the effective diameter--it was even factory paint and had had a headset on there before.)

steamroller forks sell for around $65 and they have 38mm of rake. but they're a tad tall.

for forks with steerer tubes that are too short, it's possible to cut the steerer tube a few inches above the crown, then TIG weld an extension on. it's best to use a sleeve inside that acts as bridge between the two tubes that are being welded. this works best for thredless steerers but I've done it on threaded too.

Potus, Nippon, Doko desu ka?

S/F,
CEYA!

That sounds dangerous. I would not like to test (or ride) those forks! :eek:

Sano ni. my japanese sucks. sano is in tochigi pref, close to nikko.


we're talking about two .058" tubes welded together with a .058" sleeve. as far as bike tubes go that's about three times thicker than the TT/ST miter in an area that gets very little stress. the fork would break somewhere else way before that joint would break. I'd be surprised if you could break it with a vice and a sledge hammer.

just got off the phone with the LBS. the guy found me a straight chrome (chromoly) 700c road fork for $49. itll be in on friday, im curious to what its going to look like... really hope its not welded...

Hey all,

resurrecting this thread... this guy will do a custom fork for about $120. That's only slightly more than the Spicer Cycles fork and about the same price as a Benotto. Seems like a really good price.

m.

Hey everyone I E-mailed
Spicer Cycles about that
Benotto fork and they told me.
that they are Discontinued
found out about 1 week ago
::Posted incase anyone wasnt aware of it::