Help me put brakes on my Langster
 

OK, so I have a Langster that I bought used (but pretty much new) a few years ago. It's the all black one with no logos, and I really want to stick with that theme. Hate branding.

I've just taken a job that makes my commute long enough and hilly enough to need brakes (currently just have one Tektro on the front, nothing on back (ride fixed).

I have another thread going in which I'm getting advice on a new CX bike. But the good ones are hard to find and I've never had time to maintain a gear bike, so I'm still considering the option of commuting on the Langster. This means flipping the rear wheel to free and getting better brakes.

SO, what are some of my options? I was planning on spending a lot of money on a new bike, so my budget is basically limitless. I want comfortable, durable and light weight drop bar levers with a short reach. I spend just as much time in the drops as I do on the hoods. I want callipers and pads that will give me confidence when flying down a hill in traffic. I will ride all winter, so something that can take a beating and work in wet conditions.

Again, all black would be nice, but not mandatory.

Thanks in advance!

If youre riding it every season, you might want to consider disc brakes

my ultegra brakes on my roadie give me as much if not more condfidence than the discs on my mtb. high end shimano brakes work nice. team them up with some nice cane creek non shifty brake levers and your set.

of course if you want to buy a new roadie that could work too! ride the road bike most days (or just when your tired) and work in the fixed gear a couple times a week. a road bike is just nice to have and opens a whole world of riding opportunities you just don't have with a singlespeed or fixed gear.

it takes no extra time to "maintain a gear bike", whatever that means.

How far is your commute? I worked at a paid internship this past winter that had me commuting 17.5 miles each way over some serious hills - into and out of the lower part of Blackstone Valley. One hill was over 1/2 mile of climbing at a 8-13% grade. On the way down, I needed my front brake, since it was too steep to just use my legs for braking. My Tektro front brake was never an issue. But I only use all-weather Kool stop pads, which make a difference.

My mtn bike sadly does not have disc brakes, but I have ridden disc on mtn bikes before and don't trust my bike nearly as much in any sort of bad weather. How do your roadie's brakes work in snow and rain? Definitely not nearly as good as discs. And I suggested discs because the op wanted an all season bike.

Although obviously that depends on where youre located, but up in New England id much prefer disc brakes.

Actually, I road in alot of wet weather this year, a couple of days was through some snow. The rain was no problem, the snow was definitely tricky on the steeper descents, but not a complete failure. There's no question disc brakes are better, I just hate to see people spend money on something when the current setup works.

It's also a moot point because disc brakes are never going to work on a Langster.

pretty sure those magical dangly shifty bits don't just adjust themselves

sram s500 brake levers
sram force calipers
fsa wing pro compact bars
kool stop salmon pads after the stock sram ones wear out

imo

+1
Or swissstop pads. I have this setup except for cheapo tektro calipers, and its still great.

I have the Kool Stop Salmon on my Tektro's that I ran all winter, which even the best Shimano rim brakes wouldn't have been able to handle what the Tektro couldn't.

+2

Even go with rival brakes if you're on a budget.

Sounds good. I like the sram levers too
Honestly, you will be fine with any caliper suggestions here. I run DA, Campy, tektro on my fixed bikes (parts bin) and you're not going to notice either way.
It might be nice for quality and finish to get a expensive one but go for whatever looks good.

Sticking with same name levers/brakes might be good for looks.

I will recommend the DEDA ZERO 100 compact bars. Really like them.
good luck w/ your build!

Is your seat stay bridge drilled for a rear brake? (I have an Sworks Langster Frame (2007, I think) that isn't drilled in the rear). If so, some black 105 brakes would work well / look good / not break the budget. If you want to spend more, you could probably find a black sram red brakeset (last years model, not the new one) for around $150-200 (that's if you want matching front/back, you could go even cheaper if all you need is the back). The SRAM reds are lighter and modulate just as well if not better. You essentially have unlimited choices if your seat stay bridge is drilled. If it isn't, then your choices are limited (unless you're able to get it drilled). I investigated this on my Langster but decided not to as the guy wanted some $200+ for the entire job - ie drilling, brazing on reinforcement, repainting. Just didn't make sense for a frame I got for a steal at $400. I just kept it fixed gear and use a front brake (fork was already drilled). As for levers, I like the look/feel of the SRAM levers (come in carbon or alloy). They're also black.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Was already looking at SRAM. Love their stuff.

Lukester, Max-a-mill, OneGoodLeg: The ride is 8 miles one way. There are two inclines and two declines... all 4 are between 1000 and 2000 meters each. I've never had problems with just a Tektro on front, and I've ridden in all conditions, but not on hills like that. They aren't terribly steep, just long. Too long for me to enjoy going down them with the rear wheel fixed. I'd rather flip the wheel and ride it free (sad to say that) which means I'd need a rear break. I need a new brake lever anyway, so I figure why not just do a full upgrade w/ new callipers and everything. Discs would be great in winter, but are not essential and do add weight. Not an option on the Langster anyway.

misskaz: It might take you no extra time to maintain a gear bike, but for most of us, it does. Keeping everything shifting right, keeping it all clean, buying a stand and the tools needed to tune it and eventually replace parts... it IS more work. With a single speed you just keep the chain lubed and you're good. I haven't ruled out gears, but if I can't find the perfect gear bike then I'm sticking w/ the SS.

Everyone else, thanks for all the suggestions. I do already have Easton EA70 compact drops, just never got around to putting drop brake levers on them... have one cross brake on the top. So that part is done and paid for. The rear bridge is drilled, so no problems there. Have looked at the SRAM Red... love the looks but they are expensive. In the budget, but probably not worth the extra money over the alternatives.

Do like the carbon levers though... will match my unpainted carbon fork.

Thanks!

It really doesn't take much more. Extra tools? you mean a screw driver? It's 4 limit screws and a couple barrel adjusters.

It's not rocket surgery.

It's even easier with friction shifting. </oldschoolin>

Yeah, I was exaggerating but really, you're talking about maybe an extra 30 minutes once a month if you do a pretty thorough cassette cleaning? Your time is scheduled so tightly and is so limited that you'd base a decision on that, rather than the riding experience for the hour+ per day you'll actually be spending ON the bike? I say that as someone who predominantly rides fixed, but also as someone who has learned how to adjust derailleurs and clean cassettes and keep geared bikes running well just by reading sheldon brown and watching some youtube videos and it's just not that hard.

Maintaining a geared bike really isn't hard. It's really just cable tension (limit screws shouldn't need to be touched after initial setup) and maybe once a year replacing cables and housing. Cleaning is easy enough, and gets stupid easy if you have a compressor. But if you don't want a geared bike that's fine.

A good set of pads will do more and be more cost effective than an all new caliper up front. I've never had a problem with my Tektro's when I was running single speed. You will get a bit of a performance jump going to something more expensive, but honestly I think the biggest price factor is weight. To cut significant weight and keep the performance is expensive. For some bargains look for 7600 series Durace or couple year old 105. Both will work great and be relatively light. Levers are kinda the same way. If you really skimp they'll feel mushy, but spend at least $40 on the pair and you should be fine. I use Cane Creek SCR5's and don't have any complaints. Oh and I live in Breckenridge. I deal with hills and **** weather often.

You give people too much cred. Neither is chain tension and figuring out bike fit, but look at all the threads on those subjects. Also skidding...

I know there are videos for skidding tips and chain tension on youtube.

Skidding is hard.

especially with only OneGoodLeg.

Lol an ha?

LessonLearned