Or variances in BB drop.

I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet, but bullhorns stretch you out! I much prefer road (not track!) drop bars. Bullhorns make you stretched out and low as hell.

Regardless of BB drop, the BB to saddle measurement would be the same.

Nothing gets past this guy.
http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs70/f/20...ey-d4f02z8.gif

I always wondered about this, but what about variances in seat tube angle? I know for sure that it renders the setback recommendation useless even with .5 degrees difference, but I'm not sure about the saddle height.

The calculator gives ranges because the only constants it gets are your body measurements.

My guess is that the ranges are based on differences in bike geometries and not because different people like different things etc. Bike tubes are short, so a degree difference isn't going to have a massive change on the measurements, but a change that is accounted for within the ranges.

Just my guess.

BB-Saddle position in the CC fit calc is not measured perpendicular to ground, it's measured along the seat tube. Seat tube angle makes no difference.

I just did a photoshop test and it actually does change the saddle height, but I figure it's within the recommended range.

Yo nerds, there's a new subforum for bike fit.



Get off my goddamn purple anodized scuff protected lawn.

It changes the height relative to the ground, but regardless, the bb-saddle measurement will always be the same.

Yep. It does change the overall height, which changes the leg angle ever so slightly, though.

A benefit of a threaded set up is you could just get a longer quill:
http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/images3...-4bleriot1.jpg
I don't know why, but the classic and vintage guys go nuts over them. And some are LOOOOOOOOONG. Like bottom out on your head set and still have two fistfuls left of stem.
You could buy another fork that's uncut and stack in like Jenga so it's to your height liking. Cheaper than buying a new bike, see them going for like $40 on ebay, a local co-op would also have the hookup. Maybe a stem with some serious rise would make things more comfortable, as it brings your bars up and closer to you, as pictured:
http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/...-90-500-70.jpg
I looked up the Windsor Hour and the geometry is crazy. Going the next size up, the top tube jumps to 54 cm, way to big for your measurements, so I don't think that would be an option. I'm 5'6" with similar measurements to you. I went with a Kilo Team size 47cm (50cm CtoT according to BD) and it just looks so tiny, but has the top tube length I need. We'll see how that goes.
Out of curiosity, as pictured in your original post, what is the BB to seat measurement?

Thanks Vinnems. I did the modifications last night and oh man does it feel so much better. My BB to saddle measurement was something outrageous like 73-74cm. I dialed it down to ~70cm, which is on the higher end of what the CC calculator suggests. It does feel as if I'm not able to generate as much power now that I have a larger bend in the knee when the pedal is at the 6 position, but this is most likely psychological due to having ridden it incorrectly over the past year. After dropping the saddle and flipping the stem, I also raised the angle of the handlebar to match the stem angle, which brought the ends of the bullhorns higher than the previous configuration. The difference is night and day now, it will take me a bit of time to get used to it.

A couple of aesthetic questions:

1. Should the bullhorns be angled the same as the stem, the top tube, or the ground? Or is it personal preference?
2. Same question as above, but relating to the brake handle. I previously had it positioned at the same angle as the handlebar, but this was uncomfortable with my wrist position while riding. I now have it angled somewhat downwards, but it doesn't look as clean..

I didn't get a chance to take pics this morning but will do so later today.

Thanks all.

brake lever should be angled down, as youve figured out.
I have my bullhorns parallel to the ground and top tube, my stem has a very slight slope to it.

neither should be set in an uncomfortable position just to "look clean"

Bullhorns are available in different widths, lengths, drops and shapes to suit your needs. The stock bullhorns on my Wabi were very uncomfortable for me and I changed them out with Nitto RB-002s, which made a world of difference.

Even if you did all the fitment stuff correctly (looks like you did), it may just be that the "competitive fit" is too aggressive for you, as it is for a lot of people. My bikes have all ended up somewhere in between the "Eddy" and "French" fit as they call it.

That was my initial assumption, but I had the saddle placed way too high, as I did not understand optimal positioning. After dropping it down to match my recommended BB-to-saddle length and flipping the stem, it almost feels "not aggressive enough" now. I may flip the stem back over again, time will tell..

That “aggressive" feeling is you having all your weight forward from having too much drop.

Height of the saddle and the new motion of your leg may be using muscles you were neglecting at your previous height, which will attribute to that different feeling. Give it time, it'll feel normal soon.

Angle you saddle and bullhorns parallel to the ground, and the brakes pointed down to match the downward angle of your hands. You might also wanna re flip the stem. And post a pic!