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Building my first Fixed
Hi guys, this is Gabri! Nice to meet ya'll! :)
I'm trying to build my first Fixed Bike! Well, now i wanna say that i'm noob about fixed gear so please, go easy on me :lol: I've got an old frame recovered from an old bike, my grandpa's bike..it's a normal bycicle with horizontal dropouts.. at the moment i have not an high budget so i would like to spend less money as possible.. i'm trying to choosing hubs and pinion..i saw them http://www.lastazionedellebiciclette...-pista-novatec http://www.lastazionedellebiciclette...iletto-joytech are they compatible? if you have any question ask me. tomorrow i will do photoes to the frame for let you help me better as possible. :) thank you very much and sorry for my bad english :( |
Since you're on a budget, buying a complete wheel + cog is going to be cheaper than a hub, spokes, nipples, rim, shop labor + cog. It would also be a good idea to check the spacing of your dropouts.
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Originally Posted by Gabri_1989
(Post 15815078)
Hi guys, this is Gabri! Nice to meet ya'll! :)
I'm trying to build my first Fixed Bike! Well, now i wanna say that i'm noob about fixed gear so please, go easy on me :lol: I've got an old frame recovered from an old bike, my grandpa's bike..it's a normal bycicle with horizontal dropouts.. at the moment i have not an high budget so i would like to spend less money as possible.. i'm trying to choosing hubs and pinion..i saw them http://www.lastazionedellebiciclette...-pista-novatec http://www.lastazionedellebiciclette...iletto-joytech are they compatible? What you call the "pinion" is what in English is called a "cog." Yes, those cogs are compatible with that hub. Were you planning on re-building the wheels using the original spokes and rims ? If so, the spokes will probably be the wrong length, and you will need to buy new ones. Do you know if your wheels are 27" or 700c ? Are they clincher or tubular ? If they are 700c, it will probably be less expensive for you to buy a new complete rear wheel with a track hub, and reuse the original front wheel. |
Originally Posted by skielbasa
(Post 15815222)
Since you're on a budget, buying a complete wheel + cog is going to be cheaper than a hub, spokes, nipples, rim, shop labor + cog. It would also be a good idea to check the spacing of your dropouts.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 15815245)
Hi Gabri,
What you call the "pinion" is what in English is called a "cog." Yes, those cogs are compatible with that hub. Were you planning on re-building the wheels using the original spokes and rims ? If so, the spokes will probably be the wrong length, and you will need to buy new ones. Do you know if your wheels are 27" or 700c ? Are they clincher or tubular ? If they are 700c, it will probably be less expensive for you to buy a new complete rear wheel with a track hub, and reuse the original front wheel. |
I wouldn't build a track bike from scratch if you were a noobie because once you actually get into it, you'll look back and see what you could've done better.
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Originally Posted by GT4
(Post 15819818)
I wouldn't build a track bike from scratch if you were a noobie because once you actually get into it, you'll look back and see what you could've done better.
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Originally Posted by GT4
(Post 15819818)
I wouldn't build a track bike from scratch if you were a noobie because once you actually get into it, you'll look back and see what you could've done better.
Gabri, there will be bike shops near you that deal with track bikes. Try visiting a few and seeing if they have any second hand wheels or hubs from people who've done upgrades. |
Originally Posted by europa
(Post 15819851)
And what's wrong with that? No bike is ever perfect and experimenting is a good way of working out what works for you.
Gabri, there will be bike shops near you that deal with track bikes. Try visiting a few and seeing if they have any second hand wheels or hubs from people who've done upgrades. |
Yeah, ok. I get the learning experience stuff. Just do your research BEFORE you buy something.
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Originally Posted by GT4
(Post 15819890)
Yeah, ok. I get the learning experience stuff. Just do your research BEFORE you buy something.
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Originally Posted by GT4
(Post 15819890)
Yeah, ok. I get the learning experience stuff. Just do your research BEFORE you buy something.
Originally Posted by TRac
(Post 15819892)
Yes I definitely second that one unless you want an unfun learning experience.
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Thank you everyone for answering! i followed the advice of skielbasa and TRac..i've just bought the front and rear whole wheels from an ebayer that sold them to me for 65€ and he also included the cog
http://www.ebay.it/itm/251299673783?...#ht_914wt_1190 certainly they are not a good quality wheels, but I think they are good for starting then when i'll get more money i will make better quality wheels. Now i have to buy transmission, pedals and bottom bracket 'cause in the frame i'm using there was this transmission that i don't know the name in english :P http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8862/s0pz.jpg and i thing the bottom bracket it's wrong..isn't it? |
That is your crankset. The crank arms are what the pedals attach to. The Chainring is the large cog that turns the chain.
You have an older crankset with cotter pins to hold the crank arm in place. But this one has a bolt hammered in there. This is not a good idea. New cotter pins can be purchased. Removing this bolt can be done. There is a tool to remove cotter pins. Some people use a punch and a hammer but you must be careful not to damage the surface of the metal that the cotter pin touches. good luck. |
You are on a budget???
Throw a chain on it and ride. See what you really need before you buy what you don't need. |
Damn, for a second I thought those cranks were some pauls. 1 too many circle(s?).
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