Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
Reload this Page >

Track ends & aluminum full fenders

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Track ends & aluminum full fenders

Old 09-30-14, 10:48 AM
  #1  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Track ends & aluminum full fenders

I'm researching options for a new wet-weather commuter. Currently, the most appealing option is the new disc brake version of the All-City Nature Boy, which has track ends and fender mounts. I'd like to use the PDW Full Metal Fenders on it, and it's just occurred to me that this combination of features may cause some complications.

I'm replacing an older Fuji that I rebuilt from the frame up as a single-speed conversion. Being an older road bike, it had semi-horizontal dropouts. With fenders mounted, the clearances were slightly tight, and the tire had to be partially deflated to get the wheel on and off, so it's not the end of the world if I have to continue doing things that way. I've also read about using the plastic quick disconnect things that are normally used for front fenders, but is that still a reasonable thing to do with metal fenders?

FWIW, I'm intending to use Schwalbe Marathon tires (and some sort of studded tires for the winter), and eventually convert to an internally geared hub.
agmetal is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 11:45 AM
  #2  
MattoftheRocks
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 342
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No experiences with metal fenders on bicycle, but a friend did try the fender qr on the back of a kilo wt with some plastic fenders. He eventually took the fenders off and put them back on his old conversion to re-dedicate as his rain/snow bike. I do have experience with discs in rain and snow. I only recommend them for if you have a huge hill with a stop at tue bottom on your regular route. Salt wrecks pads. Dust on the rotors is everpresent and causes howling and squeeling. My disc bike is now trails-only. Kool-stop salmon pads on any rim brake other than single-pivot caliper is what has worked best for me in Syracuse winters.
MattoftheRocks is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 11:55 AM
  #3  
SquidPuppet
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
 
SquidPuppet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Coeur d' Alene
Posts: 7,965

Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors

Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2346 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I'm thinking that track ends and full fenders would be a BIG PITA for roadside flat repairs.
SquidPuppet is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 12:00 PM
  #4  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
My original rain bike build had a front drum brake hub, for complete isolation from wet conditions. Ideally, I wanted to do the same again, but it looks like the best route for me to go, for the features I'm after, is a modern disc-equipped bike. It looks like everything else that comes close is set up with canti studs, which would end up being left unused, and looking funny. I specifically don't want rim brakes, because they can get a little scary when it's snowy/slushy.

Necessary, non-negotiable features:
Non-rim brakes
Full fenders
Rear rack
Single speed chainline
Drop handlebars
Steel frame & fork

Theoretically, I could do another conversion, but it would mean doing that for the third time, which I'd rather not do if it can be avoided.
agmetal is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 12:02 PM
  #5  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Oh, also - the internally geared hub I'm planning to eventually use has an OLD of 135mm. A conversion would mean having the dropouts spread.
agmetal is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 12:18 PM
  #6  
MattoftheRocks
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 342
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Surly Crosscheck + your drums? It has 132.5 rear spacing.

Unlike drums, discs still need to be constantly feathered on and off just like rim brakes to keep them warm and dryish in traffic when water is flying. Cantis worked really well for me last winter after I shelved my disc bike. When I was considering drums, the guys at my lbs said that I could still use dorps if I used v-brake levers.
MattoftheRocks is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 12:28 PM
  #7  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by MattoftheRocks View Post
Surly Crosscheck + your drums? It has 132.5 rear spacing.

Unlike drums, discs still need to be constantly feathered on and off just like rim brakes to keep them warm and dryish in traffic when water is flying. Cantis worked really well for me last winter after I shelved my disc bike. When I was considering drums, the guys at my lbs said that I could still use dorps if I used v-brake levers.
CC has canti studs, so it's not really ideal. I had no issues using Cane Creek SCR5 levers and interrupter levers with the 90mm Sturmey Archer drum hub I was using before. That bike was totaled after a collision with a car a few weeks ago.
agmetal is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 12:47 PM
  #8  
MattoftheRocks
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 342
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by agmetal View Post
CC has canti studs, so it's not really ideal. I had no issues using Cane Creek SCR5 levers and interrupter levers with the 90mm Sturmey Archer drum hub I was using before. That bike was totaled after a collision with a car a few weeks ago.
Cool on the levers, bummer on the wreck. I'm in a similar situation.
MattoftheRocks is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 01:23 PM
  #9  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 20,426

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1693 Post(s)
Liked 61 Times in 41 Posts
Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
I'm thinking that track ends and full fenders would be a BIG PITA for roadside flat repairs.
This is the major problem. Use slime tubes and puncture resistant tires to minimize flats.
JohnDThompson is online now  
Old 09-30-14, 02:16 PM
  #10  
TejanoTrackie 
Veteran Racer
 
TejanoTrackie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,154

Bikes: 29 frames + 72 wheels

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 663 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
This is the major problem. Use slime tubes and puncture resistant tires to minimize flats.
It's not a problem if you provide sufficient clearance between the rear of the rear fender and the tire. I've got full fenders on my Kilo WT with a 700x35c rear tire set up this way such that I can remove or install the rear wheel with the tire fully inflated.
__________________
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
TejanoTrackie is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 07:54 PM
  #11  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
This is the major problem. Use slime tubes and puncture resistant tires to minimize flats.
I'll be using Schwalbe Marathons, at least to start. Undecided between Nokian/Schwalbe for studs in the winter.
agmetal is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 08:20 PM
  #12  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 20,426

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1693 Post(s)
Liked 61 Times in 41 Posts
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
It's not a problem if you provide sufficient clearance between the rear of the rear fender and the tire. I've got full fenders on my Kilo WT with a 700x35c rear tire set up this way such that I can remove or install the rear wheel with the tire fully inflated.
B-b-b-but the fenderline! The horrors!
JohnDThompson is online now  
Old 09-30-14, 08:38 PM
  #13  
TejanoTrackie 
Veteran Racer
 
TejanoTrackie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,154

Bikes: 29 frames + 72 wheels

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 663 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
B-b-b-but the fenderline! The horrors!
Really ?

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...p;d=1397339711
__________________
What, Me Worry? - Alfred E. Neuman

Originally Posted by Dcv View Post
I'd like to think i have as much money as brains.
I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but the tunnel keeps getting longer - me
TejanoTrackie is offline  
Old 09-30-14, 09:01 PM
  #14  
tombc
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 230
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That fender is not long enough for my use and the spacing is uneven. Surly Straggler is the bike the OP wants
tombc is offline  
Old 10-01-14, 07:25 AM
  #15  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
I've looked at the Straggler...while it does seem like it would be generally well-suited to my purposes (although I'd rather have the rear caliper between the stays...), I think it would put me too far over-budget. I'd have to buy the frameset, and then everything else separately, since the complete would be geared with STI, so I'd end up spending a bunch of money on extra stuff that would end up being taken off and I'd still have to buy more parts. The Nature Boy Disc as a complete gets me most of the way there, and then I really just need to add stuff (fenders, rack, that sort of thing).

A friend suggested looking up the Kilo WT as a starting point, and actually that looks like it would be really good for a drum-based build, except for the fact that the rear dropout spacing is only 120mm.
agmetal is offline  
Old 10-01-14, 07:35 AM
  #16  
MattoftheRocks
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 342
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I thought sturmey did hubs in 120.... What hub are you planning on?
MattoftheRocks is offline  
Old 10-01-14, 02:10 PM
  #17  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by MattoftheRocks View Post
I thought sturmey did hubs in 120.... What hub are you planning on?
The new SA C50 series 5-speed hubs, that are scheduled to come out around the end of the year. They have a rotary selector for the gear shifting, are compatible with a new thumb shifter that should be usable with a Gevenalle CX lever, and will be available in both drum and disc versions. They're supposed to be heavier duty than the current ones, and be able to shift under load.
agmetal is offline  
Old 10-01-14, 06:02 PM
  #18  
MattoftheRocks
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 342
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hmm. Sound sweet. Huge bummer as far as I care that the new 853 natureboy is disc-only, but evrrybody's got to try things for themselves. If you get it and decide to eventually go back to drums, you'll have an excellent frame to drum up, it'll just have a couple of useless tabs that non-cyclists won't ever notice. If you fall in love with the discs, even better! Framewise, no one is currently offering everything that I want in the non-custom pricerange so I have to settle on a nice used frameset or bite it and sacrifice looks and/or performance (wabi/surly are highest on the list for now). I'm back to leaning towards another conversion.
MattoftheRocks is offline  
Old 10-01-14, 08:47 PM
  #19  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
I'm actually interested in this one, not the 853: Nature Boy Disc | All-City Cycles

Here's the bike I'm replacing:

agmetal is offline  
Old 10-02-14, 07:07 AM
  #20  
MattoftheRocks
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 342
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Gosh that was a beauty!
MattoftheRocks is offline  
Old 10-02-14, 09:17 AM
  #21  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by MattoftheRocks View Post
Gosh that was a beauty!
Yep!


agmetal is offline  
Old 10-25-14, 10:39 AM
  #22  
OldBikesRules
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That's a nice bike! I just got a Fuji Royale II recently, I'm gonna use yours as inspiration! did you use tube clamps on the seat stays for the rack ?





OldBikesRules is offline  
Old 11-01-14, 10:32 PM
  #23  
agmetal
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by OldBikesRules View Post
That's a nice bike! I just got a Fuji Royale II recently, I'm gonna use yours as inspiration! did you use tube clamps on the seat stays for the rack ?



That I did
agmetal is offline  
Old 11-02-14, 06:30 AM
  #24  
bbattle
.
 
bbattle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rocket City, No'ala
Posts: 12,734

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Trevisio, 1991 Colnago Master, '06 Bianchi San Jose, 1987 Moulton Fuso, 1990 Gardin Shred, '82 John Howard(Dave Tesch)

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
I'm thinking that track ends and full fenders would be a BIG PITA for roadside flat repairs.
Yes, they are. I had to remove the fender in order to fix a flat on my rear wheel. Not fun.
bbattle is offline  
Old 08-24-15, 01:48 PM
  #25  
Andersper
Senior Member
 
Andersper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sweden
Posts: 148

Bikes: Wabi Classic

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It started raining when I was on my way home and I forgot just how miserably wet you end up without fenders. My Wabi Classic does have fender eyelets and clearance for 32 mm tires.

Imagining the bike with fenders on, it seems like a very tight squeeze to get the rear axle out of the fork ends to change flats etc. Will chain tension adjustment also be a PITA?
Andersper is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.