Track ends vs horizontal dropouts
 

Hey guys, new to this forum, considering building a new bike and was wondering what the difference for these are (if any?).

A part of me just wants to answer your question, but the other part of me wants to tell you to google it since the answer is easy to find.

If it's a "new" bike, just get a frame with track ends if your intention is to build an FG/SS.

Well, track ends face rearward and are truly horizontal. Horizontal dropouts face forward and are sloped at an angle to match the rear brake pads, so they don't have be readjusted as you move the rear wheel position in the dropout. Either type dropout can be used with either a singlespeed freewheel or fixed gear setup, since they both allow for chain tension adjustment.

2 second google search
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=415881

Track ends look cool without fenders

Horz dropouts are cooler in function with or without fenders.

My next bike is probably going to have track ends.

Older frames should have a decent amount of dropout so it will be easy enough to set up your drivetrain. The "horizontal" dropouts are better if you want to use fenders.

Older frames with horizontal dropouts will be cheaper than an equivalent frame with track fork ends because of supply and demand.

I've got both, have built up both and it's not a big deal except for the fenders and that's if you get a flat on the rear tire.

Sheldon has this to say: Fixed Gear Conversions

No difference.

You will have an easier time dealing with fenders if you have horizontal dropouts.

Mike, if you are building from scratch and have the skills, make your own road dropout but make it closer to horizontal and as long as a track end. Then you get the best of both words (as long as you are not so strong that you need more than a wrenched nut to keep the wheel from slipping forward). You have a slot long enough to allow multi-tooth cog changes without messing with the chain. And you get to have dropout screws that you can set to the correct chain tension. Then, voila!, you no longer have to work to get the chain tension right. (Also your wheel comes out forward so you do not have to take the chain off until everything is good and slack and it is easy. You can even have a slot that goes forward, then down, allowing the forward end to position the tire right next to the seat tube and still have an easy wheel pull. Add a chain peg on the seatstay like any road bike and use a Pedros fix gear tool and you can do clean-hands wheel flips easily.

Ben

There's a lot to that link. Good suff.

Ben