TrojanHorse

Just wondering what people use for their drive train. I currently have a 53/39 and 12/26 which requires a fair amount of pedal pressure to get up a big hill.

For some of the hillier centuries around here, do folks use compact cranks or is this just a matter of needing to HTFU?

My current line of thinking is that a 50/34 and 11/28 (I think a normal SRAM RD will accommodate 28 but not 32) will improve my success rate with hills. That nets me a low gear of 31.9 inches instead of my current 39.5 inches.

Thoughts?

calamarichris

For years I thought a 39-27 was as low as anyone needed. Then last year I rode the Mount Laguna Bike Classic.
Anyone who says you simply need to HTFU hasn't ridden MLBC or l'Etape.
I'll probably be the only guy riding with a triple at l'Etape next weekend, but I bet I'll finish before a LOT of guys with 39-27s & 28s.

bitingduck

In the LA area I can climb pretty much anything with a 39x25, but that was *way* too big for me on Pine Creek Rd saturday for Mt. Laguna. Lots of people with smaller gearing than I had were also walking their bikes. My girlfriend, on the other hand, rode Pine Creek with a 38x23 and didn't get off to walk at all. She's also ridden Towne Pass into Death Valley on a ~76" fixed gear. Most things we ride together I ride one tooth smaller in back, but when it gets steeper than 20% or so she has a big strength to weight advantage.

So what gearing you should ride is what works for you.

PhotoJoe 

I'm guessing that the jump from 39 to 34 in front AND 26 to 28 in back would be a huge jump, but that is a completely un-edumacted guess. How much lower do you want to go? A little or a lot? If a little, I'd try the change in the rear first to see what that does for you. If you want a lot, I'd go compact first and then the cassette if you have to. Better yet, do you have any friends with a compact that would let you try it?

I've ordered a compact with 12/25, if memory serves me right.

peckma

Swapping the rings on the front crank is pretty straight forward - shouldn't need to replace the entire crank, just the rings. Have your LBS put on compact rings and go ride for a bit. If it works - you're set. Keep in mind that with a compact you'll gain some ease of effort on the uphills but lose the power/speed on the flats that the big ring gives you. A buddy of mine went from the big rings to the compact - and is happy with the change. If you don't need the top end, then make the switch.I went from a compact w/12-27 to a mid-compact 52-36 w/rear 11-28. Seems to bit a nice compromise for me.

jmX

I use a 50-34 up front, 11-28 out back. Anything over 10% grade is still a chore.

I don't think I've ever wished I had a 53 up front, and the only time I use the 34 chainring is on climbs so I don't know why I'd ever want to make that harder with a 39 (unless I somehow gained 200w of power).

TrojanHorse

A triple would be too spendy at this point, what with the different shifters and all. Frankly, I think you'd finish ahead of me on a fixie, but that's besides the point.

That's the problem - I can manage 39/26 for just about anything if it's not too long, but I went up Red Rock in vegas last month and it was 6 miles or so of 10-12% and I was DYING. It'd be nice to have a lower gear to help out a bit when the hill is really long, that's my thought.

False - my crank has 130 bolt centers, compact cranks have 110, so I can't just try out smaller chainrings. Also, by changing from a 12 tooth cog to 11, and 53 to 50, I'll actually pick up just a tiny bit on the top end, so that's not really a problem.

Alright, I think that's just the answer I'm looking for. Switching to a compact is pretty straightforward, requires only a new crank (and cassette in this case). A triple would be buxx. Let me know if you find the magic fountain of 200 extra watts.

idoru2005

Just keep a Mtn RD, a mtn cassette, and longer chain possibly, in your parts bin. Swap them out as needed.

TrojanHorse

Hm, didn't even think of that - a 39/36 would be lower than 34/28, and possibly less expensive pending the outcome of a few crank auctions I'm watching right now. Thanks

Rick@OCRR

I use a 34/50 compact on the front and an 11-32 mountain bike cassette (SRAM) with an XX rear derailluer (also SRAM) and it works fine.

Gets me up everything including the Baldy Ski Lift climb, Potrero Road on Grand Tour, Descending (when I'm ascending) Rd. and other 18% plus climbs. YMMV of course.

Rick / OCRR

megalowmatt

For years I rode a triple on my road bike but recently bought a bike with Sram Apex. The front is 50/34 and the rear is 11-32.

I really like it

calamarichris

Funny how things have changed. I rode GMR/GRR the year before last after being away from it for more than 20 years, and I couldn't believe how easy it was!
It didn't make any sense; sure I'd just gotten a powermeter and was riding high with all the performance gains, but I was practically yawning while coasting up GMR with an extra 25+ pounds than I wasn't carrying up the hill at 17, back when GMR seemed so hard! I imagined myself being some freak of nature/ultimate late-bloomer who would turn the cycling world upside down...

...then I remembered that we were all riding a 42x21's back in 1986.

eugenek

I've accumulated 71,964 feet of climbing since March 15 (https://app.strava.com/challenges/specialized-classic), most of it with 30 triple front / 28 rear. But I'm weak and overweight. When I get faster and lighter, I'm interested in Ultegra Di2 drivetrain. It only works with double cranks, but I read that it can be configured to work with 32 rear. 39/32 is only 14% higher than my current setup.

TrojanHorse

Son of a ***!



Oh, ha ha. Back when 10 speed really meant 10 speeds.

bored117 

Wouldn't compact do the trick in this case? They are almost equal... 30/28 vs 34/32.

Dunbar

I wouldn't want to ride anything that required lower gearing than 34x28 (I'd be miserable). A triple really is ideal if you do a lot of climbing IMO.

eugenek

It would, but who knows, maybe I'll find 53/11 useful some day?

50-34/11-32 combo has a narrower range of gears than what I have right now. 53-39/11-32 has a higher lowest gear and a slightly higher highest gear. I'm not in a particular hurry to upgrade since Ultegra Di2 costs a truckload of money (~$1300) and I should be more than 14% faster by the time I have the extra money. 53-39 would make more sense.

TrojanHorse

It's not that I do a lot of climbing - far from it. I just don't want to NOT do any climbing. Most of the cool places to cycle in So Cal are up a mountain road, or at least that's what it seems like from ground level here.

Rick@OCRR

[QUOTE=TrojanHorse;14139751Most of the cool places to cycle in So Cal are up a mountain road, or at least that's what it seems like from ground level here. [/QUOTE]

Yes TrojanHorse, You are correct!

Rick / OCRR

Lesper4

I love my tripple but find if I am not riding in the mountains I never use the small ring now days. Back when I wasn't in shape I needed it but not nearly now.

PhotoJoe 

You just don't want me to make it up GMR before you do!

idoru2005

Weak and overweight? I thought you are the guy on the left in this picture:



adventurecorps.com 25 by Chris Kostman / AdventureCORPS, on Flickr


Weak? I don't know about that, but I don't see anyone in that picture that 'looks' overweight!

eugenek

Ha ha. Thanks, but I'm heavier than I look. I weigh 158-160 at the moment. With my height, I can lose another 20 lbs.

Durockrolly

I run a 50/34 - 12/27.
I'm in my mid 50's. When I wake up and hop on my bike, hill climbing sounds quite adventurous. Then I start up the hill and I realize the beer is the other way!!!
All kidding aside (I don't even drink) I don't spend a great deal of time climbing but when I do my combo seems to work well for me.

jimxyz

Great post - I've seen the climbing skills of many of the people on here so it is nice to know what gearing everyone is using (I have a long way to go to get into great climbing shape - but at least I can now tune my bike more intelligently). I had a 53/39 for a long time and after battling various hills I finally broke down and put on a compact and it helped a lot. I am getting an 11/28 before BA, maybe I can keep up with some of this crowd for the first 100 yards... I would do a 32 in back but I'm told it wouldn't work with my Dura Ace set up (?). The 53 was great for hauling ass on a decline, but I haven't missed it.