Need advice -- Re-align frame or get a different wheel?
#1
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Need advice -- Re-align frame or get a different wheel?
We have a Burley Samba (unsure of the year) and have had a hard time getting the rear wheel back in the frame when we've had to take it off. A lot of tension is required, and it's easy to accidentally rest the frame in the wrong spot.
A mechanic told us that the reason is that we have the wrong size axle -- we have a 135mm axle, and the bike needs a 145mm axle.
We called the shop we got the bike from to ask to have the wheel switched out for the correct size. The owner said that he would instead re-align the frame, so that we have an easier time finding a wheel if we ever want/need to switch.
This sounds off to us -- even if we have to special order a wheel every now and then, messinng with the original frame alignment seems like a bad idea. Does anyone here have experience with this? Thank you!
A mechanic told us that the reason is that we have the wrong size axle -- we have a 135mm axle, and the bike needs a 145mm axle.
We called the shop we got the bike from to ask to have the wheel switched out for the correct size. The owner said that he would instead re-align the frame, so that we have an easier time finding a wheel if we ever want/need to switch.
This sounds off to us -- even if we have to special order a wheel every now and then, messinng with the original frame alignment seems like a bad idea. Does anyone here have experience with this? Thank you!
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If it is a steel frame it can be done but not aluminum.
if the bike shop is not that experienced I still would not do it.
your frame and chain line was designed for a 145 so that is the best choice.
another decision is what do you want as your standard wheel size. Many tandems are switching to 135 but current standard is still 145.
if the bike shop is not that experienced I still would not do it.
your frame and chain line was designed for a 145 so that is the best choice.
another decision is what do you want as your standard wheel size. Many tandems are switching to 135 but current standard is still 145.
#3
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I have to disagree with the first response.
The best thing you can do is first MEASURE what you have. Remove the rear wheel, and measure the distance between the drop outs. I would be that it is 140mm. Other possibilities are 135mm and 145mm.
Next measure the Over Locknut Dimension (OLD) of your present hub. Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Glossary N - O
The Samba has been around since 1993 - there have been changes over the years.
Once you have the measurements, tell us, and many suggestions will come.
Our Trek T50 has 140mm drop out spacing. When the original rims cracked (we are not the original owners); I decided to convert from seven speed to nine speed. I went with Wheelmaster 40H cartridge bearing tandem hubs, which are 135mm OLD, and added 2mm of shims (precision washers) to each side. This has worked well.
(note the Wheelmaster hubs are available in 40H and 48H).
Also see: https://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cyc...ease-help.html
Regarding "re-aligning"; this is usually called "cold-setting". Research this carefully, many people have done it. I have done it on several single frames. I would not do it on a tandem frame.
The best thing you can do is first MEASURE what you have. Remove the rear wheel, and measure the distance between the drop outs. I would be that it is 140mm. Other possibilities are 135mm and 145mm.
Next measure the Over Locknut Dimension (OLD) of your present hub. Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Glossary N - O
The Samba has been around since 1993 - there have been changes over the years.
Once you have the measurements, tell us, and many suggestions will come.
Our Trek T50 has 140mm drop out spacing. When the original rims cracked (we are not the original owners); I decided to convert from seven speed to nine speed. I went with Wheelmaster 40H cartridge bearing tandem hubs, which are 135mm OLD, and added 2mm of shims (precision washers) to each side. This has worked well.
(note the Wheelmaster hubs are available in 40H and 48H).
Also see: https://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cyc...ease-help.html
Regarding "re-aligning"; this is usually called "cold-setting". Research this carefully, many people have done it. I have done it on several single frames. I would not do it on a tandem frame.
#5
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Given the vintage of your tandem, I would speculate that it originally did NOT have 145mm spacing and was probably cold set at some point during it's life.
Given this, I would not mess with attempting to cold set it again.
I have messed with washers as shims but have always found that you have to futz a lot when mounting the wheel as they never want to sit tight to the outer locknut (ie futzing and greasy fingers). This would only be a consideration depending on your circumstances - do you remove your rear wheel often (e.g. to transport the bike) or just occasionally for maintenance?
I recommend you find a new wheel and get it back on the road.
Given this, I would not mess with attempting to cold set it again.
I have messed with washers as shims but have always found that you have to futz a lot when mounting the wheel as they never want to sit tight to the outer locknut (ie futzing and greasy fingers). This would only be a consideration depending on your circumstances - do you remove your rear wheel often (e.g. to transport the bike) or just occasionally for maintenance?
I recommend you find a new wheel and get it back on the road.
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Please note; if you use shims, use some gel super glue to hold them in place if they have to be outside the locknuts. You can still pop them off easily. If you can put them inside the locknuts, so much the better.
#7
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I believe that in order to make an educated suggestion the op needs to determine the actual dimensions of the frame and the wheel in question. If the difference is a couple of millimeters then cold setting would not be a problem. If 10 mm that is a horse of another color. He also needs to tell us what material the frame is made of. I am guessing that it is steel.
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Thanks for all the advice! It's a steel frame, and we are leaning toward special-ordering a wheel that fits instead of the cold-setting option (though apparently the guy who would do it is quite good).
But based on what y'all have said, we'll probably make sure to measure with the wheel off, and on the off-chance that the frame has already been cold-set once in the past. Will let you know if anything interesting comes of it!
But based on what y'all have said, we'll probably make sure to measure with the wheel off, and on the off-chance that the frame has already been cold-set once in the past. Will let you know if anything interesting comes of it!
#9
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If you do have 140mm rear spacing, let me know as I have a NOS 140mm Shimano 40-spoke hub in my parts box that I'll give you a good deal on.
I'm thinking you probably have 145mm spacing, though.
I'm thinking you probably have 145mm spacing, though.
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If you have a std 10mm threaded axle, just get a longer axle and dish the wheel
145 will have less dishing than 135, and will make a stronger wheel.
145 will have less dishing than 135, and will make a stronger wheel.
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