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Help selecting correct goodridge fittings

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Help selecting correct goodridge fittings

Old 07-11-19, 11:50 PM
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ahultin
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Help selecting correct goodridge fittings

I am preparing to install di2/ hydraulic and would like to use goodridge hose. As I cannot seem to locate it in the USA, I am going to order straight from goodridge UK so I need to get the order correct in one shot. I would greatly appreciate the assistance of anyone who has done this in selecting the correct fittings . I am using the st-r785 shifters and the br-rs785 calipers (straight fitting, not banjo). I have searched several past threads by @twocicle and @akexpress and the one reference to the correct fittings is a dead link to universal cycles.
Thank you
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Old 08-04-19, 12:44 AM
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Updating this for the sake of anyone looking to do this in the future. I ordered the following which I have now installed and just need to bleed:
Goodridge 600 Series PTFE 600-02 PVC Covered Hose ◊ 4
M8 X .75 Caliper Adaptor ◊ 4 - Male Caliper Swivel / Black Stainless Steel
8MM Collar ◊ 4 - Black Stainless Steel
Goodridge Hose Tag ◊ 4

This was enough to do both front and rear on a 2015 cannondale with about 2ft of hose left over. It came with no instructions so I may come back here and add the ones I tracked down. The hose tags did not end up being required, and will never be seen at the shifters, but I used them anyhow as they provide a finished look Total came to just a hair over $100 shipped from the UK
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Old 08-06-19, 10:44 AM
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One word of advise when bleeding the rear brake is to be patient. Hang the bike almost vertical with handlers up and leave the bleed funnel in the shifters for 24 hours. Snap the brake levers a bunch of times while it hangs. It takes along time to to get the air out of these shifters and the hose. On our adventure tandem it we put Saint brakes on the they are super easy to bleed but the road shifters are a different story. Once it is free of air the brakes levers are super firm. I also made a bleed spacer that is 9mm thick instead of standard 10mm. These are a couple of tricks to help out.
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Old 08-06-19, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by akexpress View Post
One word of advise when bleeding the rear brake is to be patient. Hang the bike almost vertical with handlers up and leave the bleed funnel in the shifters for 24 hours. Snap the brake levers a bunch of times while it hangs. It takes along time to to get the air out of these shifters and the hose. On our adventure tandem it we put Saint brakes on the they are super easy to bleed but the road shifters are a different story. Once it is free of air the brakes levers are super firm. I also made a bleed spacer that is 9mm thick instead of standard 10mm. These are a couple of tricks to help out.
Thank you! I am doing the front when i get home from work today figuring that the rear will cause less foul language if i have successfully done one. For the rear I was thinking it might be better to add the fluid from the caliper with the syringe. The thought was this would be like pressure bleeding a car? For the bleed spacer, would sanding one side of the 10mm spacer to 9mm work or do you have to take .5mm off of each side?
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Old 08-07-19, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ahultin View Post
Thank you! I am doing the front when i get home from work today figuring that the rear will cause less foul language if i have successfully done one. For the rear I was thinking it might be better to add the fluid from the caliper with the syringe. The thought was this would be like pressure bleeding a car? For the bleed spacer, would sanding one side of the 10mm spacer to 9mm work or do you have to take .5mm off of each side?
I have done it both ways as normal mountain bike brakes work great with the syringe method but it is hard to push all that on the rear brake of the tandem. Either way hang the bike and then hang it some more and make sure there are no low spots of the hose so as not to trap air. You can sand off one side on the spacer as it will self center.
basically you are overfilling the line and reservoir slightly. Just be patient
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Old 08-09-19, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by akexpress View Post
I have done it both ways as normal mountain bike brakes work great with the syringe method but it is hard to push all that on the rear brake of the tandem. Either way hang the bike and then hang it some more and make sure there are no low spots of the hose so as not to trap air. You can sand off one side on the spacer as it will self center.
basically you are overfilling the line and reservoir slightly. Just be patient
Yup, front was deceptively easy and firmed up quick pushing fluid thru with the syringe from the caliper. The rear... that sucked and is still not as firm as the front. The syringe method running thru 4 times resulted in straight to the bar mushiness so I went to starting from the top, squeeze the lever, open the bleeder screw, close the bleeder screw, release the lever and repeat. This would be much easier with a second person !
The bike is hanging near vertically since last night so I'll go back to working it this evening.
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Old 08-13-19, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ahultin View Post
Yup, front was deceptively easy and firmed up quick pushing fluid thru with the syringe from the caliper. The rear... that sucked and is still not as firm as the front. The syringe method running thru 4 times resulted in straight to the bar mushiness so I went to starting from the top, squeeze the lever, open the bleeder screw, close the bleeder screw, release the lever and repeat. This would be much easier with a second person !
The bike is hanging near vertically since last night so I'll go back to working it this evening.
It will not quite as firm as the front but donít settle till itís good
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Old 08-13-19, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by akexpress View Post
It will not quite as firm as the front but donít settle till itís good
Absolutely! I had it pretty good but tried to get it a little better and went completely backwards which ended up being for the better. My rear caliper is between the seat and chain stay and while I had the bike tilted up at a 45 , it ended up being the short section that kicked up from the chain stay to the caliper that was the problem. Once I unbolted the caliper and dropped it down to the lowest point two times thru with the syringe firmed it up pretty darn close to the fronts. Thank you for your assistance @akexpress !
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Old 08-14-19, 11:35 AM
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In my opinion these are the best brakes for a drop bar tandem. We have done some crazy descents with them confidently. Enjoy your new stopping power !!
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