Roger M

I've been hauling our tandem on the roof of my Volvo wagon for the last nine years, using a Yakima tandem rack. We have a trip planned later this summer, and we'll be driving my wife's SUV(needing more space). I don't want to haul it on the roof for a couple of reasons, one for fuel mileage over 1,500 miles, and two I don't want to hoist it up that high.

I have In Overland hitch rack. I removed one of the trays and mounted the Yakima roof rack in place of that tray. It only required drilling four holes in the beam of the Yakima part.

I centered the tandem/rack combo on the hitch rack(minus both wheels. The total length is 83". The width of Mrs. Ms car is 78.3"(according to manufacturer specs, and not including mirrors). So, it extends past the body less than 2.5" on each side, and the mirrors are roughly. 5-6" on each side.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the results. It's solid on the rack, and very little play in the receiver. The hitch rack wasn't modified, so the other tray can go back on at any time.




The photo here is a bit deceiving. The cable loop on the rear derailleur is only two and a half inches past the car body.

kraftwerk 

That 2 1/2 " looks like 2 1/2 feet! But if you say so.... cool that you did this mod.
I am thinking of making a pivoting q/r rack adapter to get the fork of the bike secure before putting the rest of the frame up &
on top or my wives Crosstrek..we'll see how that goes.

rumrunn6

cool but, yeah, the angle of the photo looks like the driver's side is hanging way out. got a photo straight on? I wonder if removing the seat posts would lesson the wind drag as well. can you put the wheels in the vehicle? (so more air can pass thru the frame)

kraftwerk 

Yes: We really need to see a "photo straight on" .

Alcanbrad

Looks like a good solution to your needs. With the tandem and tandem rack being measurably longer than the original rails on the hitch mount, there will likely be greater torque on the hitch mount. Also, the tandem rack was meant to have two attachment points to cross rails near each end (I believe) rater than just one attachment point near the center. Do you believe there sufficient margin in the hitch mount, and/or the tandem rail to take the extra torque that the system will experience getting bounced around during normal travels? (I know, everyone is a critic, right? )

Roger M

Thanks for pointing out these things. I've thought about the length and the added torque on the hitch. The tandem weighs about 39lbs. With the wheels removed its probably ten-twelve pounds lighter, but the tandem rack offsets that(which puts it back at over 40-45 pounds).

I've put a little bit of thought into cutting a longer bottom plate where the platform/tandem rack clamps around the hitch extension. And then use some thick walled aluminum tube as spacers for the outer bolts. That would help distribute the force when turning or over bumps.

We're not going to be off road with it. Just on highways.

Here's some pictures for the naysayers. The picture from the rear still doesn't give an accurate view, as I took it from maybe 15 feet back.

reburns

I applaud your resourcefulness, which is an important quality in any tandem owner in my opinion. And I’m glad you’re happy with the result. But just looking at the pictures, especially the middle one, it occurs to me that you might keep an eye out for bargains on derailleur hanger alignment tools if you don’t already own one.

Roger M

Thanks.

If that's the case, I would invest in a supply of drivers side mirrors. The mirror extends out at least 3-4" farther than the rear derailleur.

reburns

In my case, that would not prevent mishaps involving myself or others walking around the car while it is parked 🥴