Hydraulic Brake Couplers dependability
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Hydraulic Brake Couplers dependability
If changing over to hydraulic brakes with coupled lines will work without fluid loss or air leak I'd do it tomorrow.
Does anyone use hydraulic brake couplers with *frequent* disconnection and re-assembly?
What is your experience with fluid loss or air entry?
Can fluid be easily added and bled in the field?
What brands or styles have you found to be dependable, or problematic?
We built our two-piece coupled steel tandem with motor with manual disc 203mm rotor brakes, and later added a centrepull drag brake in the rear as well.
Stopping 400# GVW takes far too long!
We disassemble and reassemble the frame for every outing in order to carry two bike sections locked inside my work truck cap.
I cannot lift and handle the full 82# to 90# of bike otherwise.
see:
https://22bicycles.com/products/brak...lic-disconnect
or
https://zenocycleparts.com/collectio...-quick-coupler
Does anyone use hydraulic brake couplers with *frequent* disconnection and re-assembly?
What is your experience with fluid loss or air entry?
Can fluid be easily added and bled in the field?
What brands or styles have you found to be dependable, or problematic?
We built our two-piece coupled steel tandem with motor with manual disc 203mm rotor brakes, and later added a centrepull drag brake in the rear as well.
Stopping 400# GVW takes far too long!
We disassemble and reassemble the frame for every outing in order to carry two bike sections locked inside my work truck cap.
I cannot lift and handle the full 82# to 90# of bike otherwise.
see:
https://22bicycles.com/products/brak...lic-disconnect
or
https://zenocycleparts.com/collectio...-quick-coupler
#2
ignominious poltroon
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I have Shimano ones, which I think they discontinued. They are single-use, which pretty much defeats the point. This is the first time I have seen what you linked to. Maybe they are superior, if designed for multi-use.
BTW, bleeding brakes is pretty simple and straightforward. Getting rid of the occasional air bubble is even simpler. So don't be put off.
BTW, bleeding brakes is pretty simple and straightforward. Getting rid of the occasional air bubble is even simpler. So don't be put off.
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ignominious poltroon
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Sorry, didn't notice this was in the tandem forum until after i replied, but I don't think it really matters.
#4
Ferengii
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We use hydraulic brakes for just the front wheel (TRP HY Road) which aren’t impacted by coupling/decoupling, with mechanical TRPs on the back, also not impacting coupling/decoupling. If you can also put a TRP Hy Road on the back, you’d solve your issue (take a look at https://trpcycling.com/product/hy-rd/ ) - these are mechanical pulls activating a hydraulic brake. If not, try just the front wheel and see how it works for you - it did the job for us ( but we’re a lighter team). Good luck!
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We use hydraulic brakes for just the front wheel (TRP HY Road) which aren’t impacted by coupling/decoupling, with mechanical TRPs on the back, also not impacting coupling/decoupling. If you can also put a TRP Hy Road on the back, you’d solve your issue (take a look at https://trpcycling.com/product/hy-rd/ ) - these are mechanical pulls activating a hydraulic brake. If not, try just the front wheel and see how it works for you - it did the job for us ( but we’re a lighter team). Good luck!
Would detensioning the cable during transport and storage lead to brake fluid leaks?
Can I carry bike flat not upright without leaks?
I like your idea of testing in front, but worry about unbalanced braking front and back.
#6
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You use your regular brake cables, but the rear brake cable would require a cable splitter (on the regular brake cable) that unscrews easily - here’s a link to a photo: Cable splitters for S&S Coupled travel bikes . The front cable attaches directly to the hydraulic brake with no cable splitter. Yes, the brake hydraulics are inside the brake unit - so there’s no way for brake fluid leaks since it’s a fully contained fluid reservoir. We’ve flown our tandem in 2 bikes cases overseas numerous times with no issues (although I think airplane luggage storage is possibly pressurized), and the cases have been unloaded and placed in all different positions.
As far as unbalanced braking, I haven’t had any issues at all. The front hydraulic provides the most stopping power where it’s most needed, and the modulation is excellent. Using both brakes together gets us stopped easily.
‘The way our tandem is built, there’s not enough room for the TRP HY brake to fit in the back.
We cycle-toured last September, 2 weeks of which were in France, with some fairly steep hills (15% or more), and with four full panniers our total weight was over 400 pounds. We did stop on steep downhills to let the brake discs cool off. Link here if interested:
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/..._id=24520&v=KN
As far as unbalanced braking, I haven’t had any issues at all. The front hydraulic provides the most stopping power where it’s most needed, and the modulation is excellent. Using both brakes together gets us stopped easily.
‘The way our tandem is built, there’s not enough room for the TRP HY brake to fit in the back.
We cycle-toured last September, 2 weeks of which were in France, with some fairly steep hills (15% or more), and with four full panniers our total weight was over 400 pounds. We did stop on steep downhills to let the brake discs cool off. Link here if interested:
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/..._id=24520&v=KN
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You use your regular brake cables, but the rear brake cable would require a cable splitter (on the regular brake cable) that unscrews easily - here’s a link to a photo: Cable splitters for S&S Coupled travel bikes . The front cable attaches directly to the hydraulic brake with no cable splitter. Yes, the brake hydraulics are inside the brake unit - so there’s no way for brake fluid leaks since it’s a fully contained fluid reservoir. We’ve flown our tandem in 2 bikes cases overseas numerous times with no issues (although I think airplane luggage storage is possibly pressurized), and the cases have been unloaded and placed in all different positions.
As far as unbalanced braking, I haven’t had any issues at all. The front hydraulic provides the most stopping power where it’s most needed, and the modulation is excellent. Using both brakes together gets us stopped easily.
‘The way our tandem is built, there’s not enough room for the TRP HY brake to fit in the back.
We cycle-toured last September, 2 weeks of which were in France, with some fairly steep hills (15% or more), and with four full panniers our total weight was over 400 pounds. We did stop on steep downhills to let the brake discs cool off. Link here if interested:
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/..._id=24520&v=KN
As far as unbalanced braking, I haven’t had any issues at all. The front hydraulic provides the most stopping power where it’s most needed, and the modulation is excellent. Using both brakes together gets us stopped easily.
‘The way our tandem is built, there’s not enough room for the TRP HY brake to fit in the back.
We cycle-toured last September, 2 weeks of which were in France, with some fairly steep hills (15% or more), and with four full panniers our total weight was over 400 pounds. We did stop on steep downhills to let the brake discs cool off. Link here if interested:
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/..._id=24520&v=KN
great info, much appreciated.
We have TRP Spyres 203mm front and back. They work well but just do not have the stopping power needed.
The caliper drag brake cannot be adjusted closely to the rim, the welded mount added to the frame somehow interferes with the cable noodle and it just doesn't work well.
After having some frame twist after weld retrofits on this coupled steel bike we don't dare do any more weld changes.
After reading your post have decided to order the HY brake and try it out on the front first.