Replacing drive side spoke on the road
12-02-11, 01:23 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Replacing drive side spoke on the road
The other day we broke a drive side spoke in the middle of our ride.
All I could do was loosen the two adjacent spokes to reduce the wobble.
Wasn't carrying a spare spoke but if I was I would not be able to install it.
So I have been thinking about ways I could do it especially if we are touring.
1. Some sort of tool to remove the cassette on the road:
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-029/index.html
This could take some time and work but would probably give the best result.
2. Fiberfix spoke - Has good reviews, seems like it would be quick but not a permanent fix. The plus is you don't need to carry different sized spare spokes around which would be good for non touring.
3. This:
https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in...p/t-92052.html
If I understand it right you file off part of the spoke head to make the spoke end a J shape. I might experiment with this to see if it is feasible.
Maybe it would be good to have two of these so there is a backup if one does not work. We have broken a total of three spokes in the last 2 years and it usually happens mid ride. The spokes all broke away from the ends.
I also have heard of hubs with key holes. I wonder why there are not more of these. The keyholes would only need to be on the rear driveside.
All I could do was loosen the two adjacent spokes to reduce the wobble.
Wasn't carrying a spare spoke but if I was I would not be able to install it.
So I have been thinking about ways I could do it especially if we are touring.
1. Some sort of tool to remove the cassette on the road:
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-029/index.html
This could take some time and work but would probably give the best result.
2. Fiberfix spoke - Has good reviews, seems like it would be quick but not a permanent fix. The plus is you don't need to carry different sized spare spokes around which would be good for non touring.
3. This:
https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in...p/t-92052.html
If I understand it right you file off part of the spoke head to make the spoke end a J shape. I might experiment with this to see if it is feasible.
Maybe it would be good to have two of these so there is a backup if one does not work. We have broken a total of three spokes in the last 2 years and it usually happens mid ride. The spokes all broke away from the ends.
I also have heard of hubs with key holes. I wonder why there are not more of these. The keyholes would only need to be on the rear driveside.
12-02-11, 06:39 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Seattle
Posts: 201
Bikes: Spec. Roubaix, Cannondale RT2, BF NWT, BF tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have a friend that carries a kevlar string or small diameter rope in case of emergencies. Looks like it would pass through the spoke holes and just be tied.
12-02-11, 07:37 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Royal Palm Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,236
Bikes: 2006 Co-Motion Roadster (Flat Bars, Discs, Carbon Fork), Some 1/2 bikes and a couple of KTM's
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
DT hubs will allow you to easily gain access to the drive side without tools. New spoke, quick true, done.
PK
PK
12-03-11, 05:22 AM
#4
hors category
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,231
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Phil's FSC hubs, White Industries and Chris King rear hubs can also be disassembled / reassembled (with due care not to lose or contaminate parts) in the field with hex wrenches, etc... such that the cassette can be removed along with the freehub and axle to gain access to the hub flange. This should be practiced at home with your own hubs before attempting in the field, but it's not beyond the skills of anyone who does a good deal of their own bike maint.
The Fiberfix spokes do an adequate job for quick fixes.
As for having spare spokes, in "the old days" chainstays on touring tandems would actually have brazed-on fittings for spare spokes that doubled as chainstay protectors. For a more stealthy approach, you can either stick them inside the stoker's seat tube using a couple rubber corks on either end or you can put them inside your handlebars where the bend in the bar will keep them from rattling around. You just need to know which length spokes your tandem uses: typically, two different length spokes is all that's needed to fix front & rear.
The Fiberfix spokes do an adequate job for quick fixes.
As for having spare spokes, in "the old days" chainstays on touring tandems would actually have brazed-on fittings for spare spokes that doubled as chainstay protectors. For a more stealthy approach, you can either stick them inside the stoker's seat tube using a couple rubber corks on either end or you can put them inside your handlebars where the bend in the bar will keep them from rattling around. You just need to know which length spokes your tandem uses: typically, two different length spokes is all that's needed to fix front & rear.
12-03-11, 07:11 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
I've broken 3 spokes on a 48 spoke rear wheel and didn't realize it until I loaded the bike into my car. I've broken out a hub flange on a 40 spoke wheel and rode home. I doubt that either would work with a Sweet 16.
12-03-11, 10:49 AM
#6
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,528
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3885 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
FiberFix. That's what they're for. Takes just a few minutes, requires no tools, and will get you to the nearest shop, or home if you're just on a day ride. Instructions that you'll get with the kit here: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fiberfix.htm
Looping the cord around the opposite spoke may be the best fix, as some hubs have sharp edges on their spoke holes which can cut the cord.
Looping the cord around the opposite spoke may be the best fix, as some hubs have sharp edges on their spoke holes which can cut the cord.
12-03-11, 11:17 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Royal Palm Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,236
Bikes: 2006 Co-Motion Roadster (Flat Bars, Discs, Carbon Fork), Some 1/2 bikes and a couple of KTM's
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Phil's FSC hubs, White Industries and Chris King rear hubs can also be disassembled / reassembled (with due care not to lose or contaminate parts) in the field with hex wrenches, etc... such that the cassette can be removed along with the freehub and axle to gain access to the hub flange. This should be practiced at home with your own hubs before attempting in the field, but it's not beyond the skills of anyone who does a good deal of their own bike maint.
The Fiberfix spokes do an adequate job for quick fixes.
As for having spare spokes, in "the old days" chainstays on touring tandems would actually have brazed-on fittings for spare spokes that doubled as chainstay protectors. For a more stealthy approach, you can either stick them inside the stoker's seat tube using a couple rubber corks on either end or you can put them inside your handlebars where the bend in the bar will keep them from rattling around. You just need to know which length spokes your tandem uses: typically, two different length spokes is all that's needed to fix front & rear.
The Fiberfix spokes do an adequate job for quick fixes.
As for having spare spokes, in "the old days" chainstays on touring tandems would actually have brazed-on fittings for spare spokes that doubled as chainstay protectors. For a more stealthy approach, you can either stick them inside the stoker's seat tube using a couple rubber corks on either end or you can put them inside your handlebars where the bend in the bar will keep them from rattling around. You just need to know which length spokes your tandem uses: typically, two different length spokes is all that's needed to fix front & rear.
In regards to WI hubs and pulling one apart on the roadside, doable and as mentioned don't lose the small parts.
Good to see you posting again, and hopefully bundled up and still stretching the throttle cable of the HD.
PK
12-03-11, 06:40 PM
#8
Senior Member
Santana OEM Hadley hubs also disassemble easily with two 5mm hex wrenches, making drive-side spoke change easy.
I've had good luck with a FiberFix spoke and always carry one. They weigh almost nothing.
And, hey, Mark, it's not just in the "good old days" that bikes have spoke carriers on the chainstay. My 1999 Santana Fusion S&S has them, but it was a custom mod when built and not OEM. It serves double-duty as a chainstay "chain slap" protector.
Finally, if you are routinely breaking spokes, then I'd consider having your wheel rebuilt by a good wheelbuilder. We're a fairly heavy team, have used our tandem and triplet both for loaded touring, and have never broken a spoke.
I've had good luck with a FiberFix spoke and always carry one. They weigh almost nothing.
And, hey, Mark, it's not just in the "good old days" that bikes have spoke carriers on the chainstay. My 1999 Santana Fusion S&S has them, but it was a custom mod when built and not OEM. It serves double-duty as a chainstay "chain slap" protector.
Finally, if you are routinely breaking spokes, then I'd consider having your wheel rebuilt by a good wheelbuilder. We're a fairly heavy team, have used our tandem and triplet both for loaded touring, and have never broken a spoke.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ClarkinHawaii
Bicycle Mechanics
6
10-22-15 09:01 PM
