twocicle

Update, April 9th, 2013: Final build photos posted here.

Starting a build thread for this new addition. Frame arrived today, right on my stoker's birthday

This frame is to replace a non-coupled 2007 Tetra we had purchased early last year. Quick turnaround, but we liked the ride and wanted couplers again (had them before on a Santana).

Team weight < 300 lbs. With the added stiffness of the couplers, no addnl frame stiffening considered other than the headtube and fork. For that we added the beefier tapered 1.5" fork steerer (as noted below) to get the best frontend handling.

Basic specifications of this build:

• Calfee Tetra sized Medium / Small
• S&S couplers
• ENVE 2.0 tapered fork 1.125" (1 1/8") upper / 1.5" lower.
• 44mm (inner diameter) headtube to allow for large diameter tapered fork (new option from Calfee)
• Chris King InSet7 GripLock NoThreadSet Headset. Published weight of 150gm.
• 2.5cm headtube extension (increased from 2cm on previous frame due to the lower stack height of the new internal headset top).

* Rough weight results on our scales for all the above items: 11.2 lbs. The extra 2.8lbs for couplers does add some heft over a non-coupled frame. The fork with the steerer is currently an extra ~7cm too long (to be cut) and the crown race installed is: 404gm (~14oz).

Additional components:

• We are intending to port over most all the components from our previous Calfee.
• Finally installing the new Gates CenterTrack belt drive. It's been sitting here in boxes for months.
• More on this later as the new build progresses.

I am maintaining a Picassa photo album, so these are just a few showing some key points:

Freshly unwrapped, recoupled and outside for a little more light. When the sunshine hits it.... wow:


CK headset pre-installed. Rear brake cable routing much more tucked under the toptube than before (nice):


Underside of head area. That 1.5" setup is huge:


The rear bottom bracket area has been cleaned up. Flatter and longer clearances than before - on both sides:


Rear disc brake rotor clearance improved:


Tapered steerer ENVE 2.0 fork:


Preshipping assembly at Calfee. Uncut steerer, temp stem. Nice integrated look between the headtube, headset and fork shoulders:

Ritterview

I must say, Joe's Bicycle Painting does a good job. It looks like you could dive right into that paint.

twocicle

When the sunshine hits the translucent finish it really lights up all the multi-colors and carbon weaves.

Should we car wax it before assembly? Always thought that might be a good idea but never got around to it. NuFinish, other, or not?

budhaslug

That looks lovely! A fine replacement for our new/your old frame. If you decide to go with a Paketa or something else next fall (just to keep on your crazy tandem upgrading timeline), let us know... we'd be happy to have it join its older sibling in our stable

Congratulations

rdtompki

That's going to be one beautiful ride.

twocicle

Here are a few more photos taken indoors tonight. Seems to capture the highlights better. For picture captions, see the Picassa album.

Ritterview

Did you consider sending any of your other components to Joe's for painting? Since ours was destined for NAHBS, Calfee and Joe's went all out. Both stems, fork, stoker's bar, and the seatpost were all painted into the scheme. Having these parts painted makes it all look more coherent, and thus more arresting.

Your fork is painted, which is really nice. Wouldn't be too hard to send your other parts to Joe's.

twocicle

Hard, no. But a few hundred $$. Maybe if/when I'm 100% sure of keeping components I would consider that. Send me your Calfee stoker stem and I promise to get it painted

FYI, I dreamt up a paint scheme that was quoted at $2,000. Opt'd out.

twocicle

So two questions:

1. should I car wax the frame before assembly, and if so is there a bad wax to avoid? I have NuFinish onhand.

2. how does the Bushnell style eccentric fare as far as water & dirt getting into all those holes? Should I plug those from the inside with silicone sealer?

DubT

1. Normally on new paint you are supposed to wait at least six months. I have used a variety of products on our Pearl White but did wait for a few months. I normally wipe it down with Mequirs (sp) after a ride.

2. The holes have not been a problem in over 18 months. The large hole is used to tighten the wedges and the smaller holes are for the spanner wrench. Holes can let water in and out. After a wet ride you can always used compressed air to blow any remaining water residue out.

joe@vwvortex

I would opt for a good polymer sealant over a wax. NuFinish is autostore junk. I use high end wax on my car only when I participate in car shows.

I have used both of these products on my car and tandem with excellent results:

SONAX Polymer Net Shield - simple wipe on and wipe off
Menzerna Power Lock Sealant

Phil at Detailers Domain is a professional detailer. He can answer any and all questions you might have. Also there are a variety of discount codes around as well - 10% off or more.

https://www.detailersdomain.com/Sealants_c_79.html

You don't have to wait for the paint to cure - this isn't the 80's.

twocicle

Thank you for the advice. I opted for "Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant" from autopia-carcare.com for the best delivered price with a 30% off coupon.

PMK

Just curious, was this built as a 135mm or 145mm rear axle?

PK

budhaslug

I'm pretty sure it will be 145, if only because twocicle already has a newish set of Spinergy wheels from the previous build and didn't ask about us wanting them when we bought the non-coupled Calfee from them.

twocicle

Correct, 145mm rear axle spacing which is the standard from Calfee.

twocicle

I finished up with my initial build of this frame using components from our previous Calfee, except for the headset change and now have the Gates CenterTrack belt installed. Currently running Ultegra caliper rim brakes front and rear. Disc is staying in the box until I feel like venturing into terrain where we would need it. Swapping out the rear caliper brake for the Avid/ICE rotor would add another 180(?)gms. A couple changes we have been considering are to trade out both our oldish Terry Ti saddles for new Specialized seats. A Romin Evo Expert (captain) and a Specialized Oura Expert (stoker). In the process, that will cut a mere 100gms. I'll get to reposting a complete component list and some photos here soon.

Complete build with pedals comes to 31lbs. Ouch. Those 2.8lb S&S couplers make the weight weeny in me a bit squeemish
Our Speedplay pedals are only 280gms (13oz, .8lb) for both pair, so the typical "mfr" comparison puts our build at 30.2lbs. Still seems like a lot when Calfee posts their Di2 equiped Tetra S&S at 28lbs, and that has a massive 10" disc rotor installed. Ok, well, we are missing the $4k wheels, Di2 and miscellaneous other carbon trinkets installed specifically to pimp the ride for weight bragging rights. That our ride is 2.2lbs heavier is probably a good example of a realistic target.

Given 11.2lb weight of the frame/fork/headset, all other components including the pedals add up to 19.8lbs (31 - 11.2). Not sure how that does on the weight weeny scale. Comments?

Otherwise, the only substantial weight cut possible is the 1890gm Shimano crankset. Options:

• I have resisted seriously considering DaVinci if only because of the square taper axle and inboard bearings. The pricepoint is attractive @ $650, 1637gm incl BBs (per TandemGeek here), and good setup flexibility, but dang that BB/axle.
• FSA SL-K Light: $1080. 1570gm including all rings, not sure if that includes the BBs. I believe it does if my memory of a call to FSA is correct. A show stopper might be that the rear Q-factor is stated at: 163mm, though IRL some have measured 164.8mm.
• Lightning: $1760. 1100gm no rings, then add 3 drive rings. Tim @ Lightning said these have a rear Q-factor of 166mm.

waynesulak

Nice looking bike. I suggest mounting and testing the disk if you have not done so already. I don' t like surprises just before a trip.

Are you switching saddles for weight savings or another reason?

I amnot sure from your post if you have elimnated the davinci but is is the most flexible setup. Choose your spider and ring sizes And more ability to choose your q-factor and chainline. Outboard bearings have advantages but don't allow different length bottom brackets. Fsa allows a few mm adjustment since it is designed to work on a 73mm bb but Square tapers vary much more without using spacers.

twocicle

Stoker's Terry saddle foam is too soft and causing pressure problems on the front area, also the nose is too wide for her. She is currently testing a lady's Selle SMP Stratos on her single (trainer riding at this time of year). For most of last year on my single I road a mens Selle SMP Stratos and liked that very much. I seem to have a perpetual need to tinker and have not settled on one specific saddle for my tandem seat.

twocicle

Completed build in ridable prep. View the Picasaweb album for a lot more photos.

Weight is 32lbs as you see it, including pedals, tire pump, computers + mounts, and bottle cages. I think it is a fairly lean build, with very little fat to trim. We could lose maybe 1lb by changing out the cranks and lighter saddles. Otherwise, we are done.

90% of the components are straight off our previous Calfee, to the point where no adjustment of the handlebars, shifters, cable routing under the tape, or chain modification was needed. Saddle position and reach on this ride appears to be identical to our prior setup.

The Ultegra middle ring chainline is a near perfect 50mm with a single 1.2mm BB spacer on the driveside. This cheats the stoker cranks to the right by 2mm, but maintains an acceptable rear Q-Factor of 159-160mm. To aid in belt ring alignment, I added a set of 2mm chainring spacers and longer ring bolts to the front timing ring, pushing that outward and eliminating having to move the captain's cranks off center.

Ritterview

What is that elevated stoker's Garmin mount?

twocicle

It's a dual arm FSA Control Center mount. Attach the standard Garmin mount using their rubber bands. There are some errant sales posting on Amazon which turn out to be either the single arm mount or a carbon weave mount. This one is neither, just a simple and sturdy thing that does the job for $16. See the link I provided at the start of this paragraph.


We have the stoker's Garmin up a little higher to make viewing easier for her. My captain's mount is flipped upside down to better miss the cable routing as it exits from under the bar tape as seen here on our previous tandem:







If they made the FSA mount 6" long it could almost make a nice stubby TT bar and although it may not result in the most ultra aero frontend setup, it serves its purpose for us. Otherwise, if I put the Garmin directly on my stem the angle is more difficult for me to see it.

WNY tandem

What a beautiful bike!

Bent In El Paso

Pictures of the frame in the sunlight please. That tandem is beautiful!!

waynesulak

Some avoid paint to save weight but that blue shows it is weight well spent. Looks great.

twocicle

Yes, agree... I'll get some nice outdoor photos when the opportunity arises. I'll have to reshoot the last set of photos. Snapping against a white wall with a flash underexposed the tandem frame and components.

No good sunlight yet. We live in northern Idaho where it is currently dumping snow again :/ Winters here have varying degrees of overcast brightness. We are thinking about doing a trip south very soon.

Thanks. We prefer the look of either the translucent paint job or clearcoat vs the nude, and we are not meticulous enough to take care of an uncoated nude frame either, so we are stuck with some weight penalty due to paint though it is not as bad as opaque paint which could add yet another 1lb.