Excuse me, did you not read my post? particularly the last paragraph where I said this:

"But again for the money that TI bolts cost vs just regular steel you'll spend far more money than the weight savings is worth, this is the worse place to spend money to try to save weight."

I have a ti bike but there is no ti parts on it.

Right, but you have to not suffer a coronary on the parts of the trip that precedes weight loss.

Where I would draw the line on tool is buying some general junk like a multi tool in Ti. The lightest and best way to go is to use parts that require the minimum of allen wrenches, no other tools, and to carry only tools that actually fit something on your bike that you can fix on the road. Normally if you implement that approach the weight of your tools is super light, and your bike is built of nicer parts. A decent sized ti pedal wrench would be nice.

aren't all the modern pedals designed to be installed/removed with hex keys?

the "you" in my response was not you, but the other "you's" who could
be spending crazy amounts of cash for ti bolts.

Then I am an absolute fool and I have no intention to change that.

No. Titanium is inferior to steel as a tool material. Professional mechanics pay big $$ for tools and I have never seen a professional grade titanium wrench. When a part has fixed dimensions, like an allen key for instance, or a square taper bottom bracket spindle, there is a huge loss of strength to be found by substituting ti for steel. Ti is good for parts that can be re-designed to optimize the strength-to-weight ratio, but not for most other things.

I order some Titanium rack mounting screws for my steel TUBUS Ergo, on my steel tourer.

In my defense they were the only scews/bolts I could find online that were long enough, so I didn't have much of a choice.

FYI getting TUBUS racks on 2015 Kona Sutra forks is a wain the the butt.

Welcome to the club.

I am surprised that a nearby hardware store did not have the M5 bolts you need. In USA where metric nuts and bolts are not yet the norm, still I have no trouble finding M5 stainless bolts that use an Allen wrench. If I want really long ones, I can't get stainless, but can get plain steel bolts.

One of my Tubus racks came with Torx bolts, fortunately I had some spare bolts of the correct length so I did not need to use the supplied bolts.

I recently bought a whole titanium bike at the recommendation of my therapist. You just have to get the right therapist.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...B973443275.jpg

I didn't even look at my local hardware store, I just wend straight online, the ones I needed are pretty long though M5 X 45mm, I'm not even sure it will work with these bolts. If not I guess I will be rolling with rear panniers only.

BoltDepot.com
Found this place online about 10 years ago and it's been my "go to" source for most fastners. Shipping is cheap enough that I can't drive to the Lowe's/HomeDepot for less in my truck.
Not sure where the line is for "advertising" vs. recommending a good source. I offer this as the later...

Did Obama Care pay for it?

Absolutely not! I had to make a $40 copay. Obamacare paid for the rest.

I'll be paying for this new road ride all by myself using the money I saved by getting a BushPhone. The frame and form were just sent off for ceramic coating. Going with a sea foam green with some bare ti. Should look great with the red CK headset and hubs and the red skewers and seat post collar.


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=441587

Must be painful waiting and watching. Mine took about 3 weeks from ordering to delivery, and it seemed like forever. Can't wait to see the finished product. Here's a write up of my Lynskey.

http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/...ter-build.html

It is. I have another 2-3 weeks to wait. If I were not getting the ceramic coating I could have it next weekend. Put down my deposit in late October of last year. I knew the wait would be about 6 months. The builder is a father, a husband, owns a LBS and goes to school at night to learn how to use a complicated, computerized mill he recently bought so he can make his own dropouts and other things. He told me he spent about 65 hrs. on my frame, although some of that was not active time. For example, the tubes sit for 2 hrs. in a hyrdostatic bath to clean them before welding.

Here is the road bike he recently built for himself. Mine won't be quite as ornate as I am not having the stem and seat post colored:

Cerakote Coatings: Custom Mix of H-137 Gloss White and H-169 Sky Blue

It's nice you found someone local that does such beautiful work. Good things, like a handmade Ti bike, take time and care.

just this minute started a thred on lynsky tourer snap.
fantastic looking bike but would you mind giving me a run down on parts and ride quality. on the thread i started dont want to hijack this one.

The complete write up is over on the Commuting subforum. The bike will also serve as a touring bike, but primarily built as a commuter. http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/...ter-build.html

Alans thanks for that great and honest review the bike is stunning for sure,curious to know the max weight for panniers on the rear.
i bought a terry dolan carbon bike few weeks ago stunning bike some difference from the 2 thorns i had bit then again bifferent beasts.
but what i like about modern road bikes is no ugly cables there all routed through the frame tubing, why can'y lynskey do this to there bikes make for a very neat bike and dead easy to keep clean.

Ugly, maybe, but actually much easier to keep clean as the time required for disconnecting cables for cleaning is measured in seconds rather than minutes or hours.
Internal cable routing is not a new idea - IIRC, it was gaining popularity in the late '80s but went almost completely extinct after a couple of years - coincidentally about the amount of time it would have taken for most of the people who bought them to have had to start removing cables for maintenance, and thus realize how much internal cables complicate things. I think the resurgence is a result of the introduction of electronic shifting and the changed perception of how performance bikes are supposed to look.

Wilfred i never really gave much thought to cables until i recently bough a Terry Dolan carbon road bike all the cables are internal and believe me the bike looks stunning. simple to clean no bother changing cables well i dont expect it to be any bother why would it.be honest how often would u change cables on your bike .anyway if i had the money to buy a custom lynsky i think i would be asking them to hide the cables please.just my choice ,i like to see the workmanship of the bike not look at cables.

Your preference is certainly 100% valid. However, I doubt you would ever see an off-the-rack touring frame with internal cables. I agree that for most people (the vast majority), changing cables might be a once every two or three years operation (if ever), but if you have ever had to diagnose and fix a shifting problem on the side of the road or trail in the rain I promise you would see more value in the ease of maintenance and less in the aesthetics. Regarding easily removable cables, in my opinion, 'it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.' I agree that modern internal cables (or electronic setups) are pretty damn sweet, though. If I had any paved roads to ride around my home I would certainly consider getting a road bike with internal or Di2.

That's the way to do it, Obamacare can't pay for medicines for the elderly on SSI but it can sure be a big help for the rest of us.