Which "vintage" touring bike would you look for?
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I read through this entire thread--thanks for the reference. Very informative (and entertaining too). You know a lot more about bikes than I do!
I seem to be a little "between sizes," at least as far as Trek bikes go. When I bought my Domane it was either a 56 or a 58. After consulting with my bike fitter, I opted for the 58. Since I also wasn't very flexible, we ended up fitting an 80 mm stem, and handlebars that moved the hoods a skosh in and it seems pretty good now--although I don't have much to compare it to. I've been told that when looking at vintage bikes I probably should get a 59 or 60, or the inch-equivalents: 23-24" (?). Also have been advised that touring bikes in general, have a bit more leeway as far as sizing goes.
STP
I seem to be a little "between sizes," at least as far as Trek bikes go. When I bought my Domane it was either a 56 or a 58. After consulting with my bike fitter, I opted for the 58. Since I also wasn't very flexible, we ended up fitting an 80 mm stem, and handlebars that moved the hoods a skosh in and it seems pretty good now--although I don't have much to compare it to. I've been told that when looking at vintage bikes I probably should get a 59 or 60, or the inch-equivalents: 23-24" (?). Also have been advised that touring bikes in general, have a bit more leeway as far as sizing goes.
STP
Will be gone quickly I suspect! And its your size. I have seen these with cream-colored SKS longboard fenders, very nice!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-voyageur.html
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This was just posted in the Classic vintage for sale forum. BUY IT. A great bike, from a respected seller, and it is a great deal.
Will be gone quickly I suspect! And its your size. I have seen these with cream-colored SKS longboard fenders, very nice!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-voyageur.html
Will be gone quickly I suspect! And its your size. I have seen these with cream-colored SKS longboard fenders, very nice!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-voyageur.html
I "know" Steve Whitlach, at least from BF. He owns a couple of '80's Schwinn Circuits like the one I bought. As I've mentioned, it was such a pretty and sweet-riding bike that I bought it even though it turns out that it's about a size too small for me.
At first I hesitated on this one since I don't know if I'm "ready" to pull the trigger, but it really does seem to be a great bike. I've contacted Steve and we'll see how it shakes out.
Thanks again for the heads up.
STP
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Hi I have a Univega Gran Tourisimo, 1983 I think. I bought it new and have used it off and on over the years. some more than others. So I was thinking of a new bike too, just for riding around town (North of Boston). Then I decided to see what it would take to get the Univega in decent road shape. So I took it to a reputable bike shop and they figure around 345 to fix it up, w/ new tires, some new cables, tune up and bottom bracket repair. Seems like a lot to put into an old bike...But I have always liked this one. It's the only Bike I have owned for over 30 years. The Bike I was considering is the Jamis Coda Comp, because it has a nice steal frame.
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Thanks for the heads up. That is exactly the same bike that I first saw and admired as one of Doc Cannondale's recent acquisitions--even down to the Imperial Rose paint job.
I "know" Steve Whitlach, at least from BF. He owns a couple of '80's Schwinn Circuits like the one I bought. As I've mentioned, it was such a pretty and sweet-riding bike that I bought it even though it turns out that it's about a size too small for me.
At first I hesitated on this one since I don't know if I'm "ready" to pull the trigger, but it really does seem to be a great bike. I've contacted Steve and we'll see how it shakes out.
Thanks again for the heads up.
STP
I "know" Steve Whitlach, at least from BF. He owns a couple of '80's Schwinn Circuits like the one I bought. As I've mentioned, it was such a pretty and sweet-riding bike that I bought it even though it turns out that it's about a size too small for me.
At first I hesitated on this one since I don't know if I'm "ready" to pull the trigger, but it really does seem to be a great bike. I've contacted Steve and we'll see how it shakes out.
Thanks again for the heads up.
STP

STP
#30
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The Trek 520s from the late '80s are nice. They were more of a sport tourer in '84/'85, which are also worth considering. The Fuji S-12-S came with a triple in the early '80s, and is a nice bike. The triple, if I remember correctly, is a 36-44-52. It would be nicer with a 24 or 28 instead of that 36. The Fuji America was also a really sweet bike, if you can find one.
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I have had, at different times, two Cannondale touring bikes of different vintage, four Tenax Voyageurs and one pre-Tenax Voyageur(not the SP), and a Novara Randonee. I would say this:
If you plan on really touring, not just enjoying the nice ride of a touring bike for your typical riding (which is perfectly okay), I recommend you go back and snag a Novara if the price is still good. The Randonee was a very good, well built bike, and the modernized componentry will give you a bike that lasts for a good while. The price is a bargain in the new bike marketplace.
The older bikes would tour just fine, but you will spend a bit of money to upgrade, because upgrades tend to run in sets not just components when you jump that far. You change wheels so you change to cassette so you change shifters so you need to change the chain so now you need a short reach bar so now you change the stem yada yada yada. Know what you want your end result to be.
Of the bikes you mentioned, I liked the C-dale best for loaded touring. Stiff under load, flies when unloaded. My opinions only, your mileage may vary.
If you plan on really touring, not just enjoying the nice ride of a touring bike for your typical riding (which is perfectly okay), I recommend you go back and snag a Novara if the price is still good. The Randonee was a very good, well built bike, and the modernized componentry will give you a bike that lasts for a good while. The price is a bargain in the new bike marketplace.
The older bikes would tour just fine, but you will spend a bit of money to upgrade, because upgrades tend to run in sets not just components when you jump that far. You change wheels so you change to cassette so you change shifters so you need to change the chain so now you need a short reach bar so now you change the stem yada yada yada. Know what you want your end result to be.
Of the bikes you mentioned, I liked the C-dale best for loaded touring. Stiff under load, flies when unloaded. My opinions only, your mileage may vary.
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So badly wish I could get my hands on one of these in my size 1989 Bridgestone MB-1- Mtbr.com
Best vintage ATB ever.
Best vintage ATB ever.
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#34
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I have had, at different times, two Cannondale touring bikes of different vintage, four Tenax Voyageurs and one pre-Tenax Voyageur(not the SP), and a Novara Randonee. I would say this:
If you plan on really touring, not just enjoying the nice ride of a touring bike for your typical riding (which is perfectly okay), I recommend you go back and snag a Novara if the price is still good. The Randonee was a very good, well built bike, and the modernized componentry will give you a bike that lasts for a good while. The price is a bargain in the new bike marketplace.
The older bikes would tour just fine, but you will spend a bit of money to upgrade, because upgrades tend to run in sets not just components when you jump that far. You change wheels so you change to cassette so you change shifters so you need to change the chain so now you need a short reach bar so now you change the stem yada yada yada. Know what you want your end result to be.
Of the bikes you mentioned, I liked the C-dale best for loaded touring. Stiff under load, flies when unloaded. My opinions only, your mileage may vary.
If you plan on really touring, not just enjoying the nice ride of a touring bike for your typical riding (which is perfectly okay), I recommend you go back and snag a Novara if the price is still good. The Randonee was a very good, well built bike, and the modernized componentry will give you a bike that lasts for a good while. The price is a bargain in the new bike marketplace.
The older bikes would tour just fine, but you will spend a bit of money to upgrade, because upgrades tend to run in sets not just components when you jump that far. You change wheels so you change to cassette so you change shifters so you need to change the chain so now you need a short reach bar so now you change the stem yada yada yada. Know what you want your end result to be.
Of the bikes you mentioned, I liked the C-dale best for loaded touring. Stiff under load, flies when unloaded. My opinions only, your mileage may vary.
It's probably obvious by now that my lack of experience is a big hindrance to "knowing what I want" so I tend to go for things that appeal on more an aesthetic basis--and that Imperial Rose Voyageur hit all the notes in that regard.
Here are pix of the two bikes I mentioned originally--these are restored works of Doc Cannondale. Steve Whitlach's Voyageur was almost a perfect match to the Voyageur.
I was at REI two night ago and inquired about the Randonee and they still have one left in size L. I don't know know how much or what kind of touring I might actually do, but if I were heading out tomorrow and the Randonee were available I'd just snap it up. I still may, just to get some experience and figure out what's what.
But on a gut level, these two vintage bikes grab me!
'85 Cannondale ST (Looks just like your comment: "Stiff under load, flies when unloaded...")

'87 Voyageur

Last edited by Porschefan; 04-01-15 at 08:34 PM.
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Get one of each, you will appreciate the difference. I have often thought of starting a touring bike collection, but 1.) I'm pretty small and touring bikes that fit me properly are pretty hard to find. 2.) "Collection" is a Greek word for "watch your money go away and leave you with stuff to keep fixed and secured."
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Great points.
It's probably obvious by now that my lack of experience is a big hindrance to "knowing what I want" so I tend to go for things that appeal on more an aesthetic basis--and that Imperial Rose Voyageur hit all the notes in that regard.
'85 Cannondale ST (Looks just like your comment: "Stiff under load, flies when unloaded...")
'87 Voyageur
It's probably obvious by now that my lack of experience is a big hindrance to "knowing what I want" so I tend to go for things that appeal on more an aesthetic basis--and that Imperial Rose Voyageur hit all the notes in that regard.
'85 Cannondale ST (Looks just like your comment: "Stiff under load, flies when unloaded...")
'87 Voyageur
I think I have "accidentally" started a touring bike collection. I have the Alyeska, and the Green 85 Voyageur that I commute on everyday, but I also picked up a '09 Randonee this winter (too cheap on craigslist) but haven't ridden it yet enough miles to comment more, except to say yes, there are some perks to modern components. I also have an 89' C dale ST frame in the basement like the one you pictured, which I got for $20 and I would send it to you for free had I not just used it as bait to lure a friend into joining in on our tour this summer.
Mobilemail above has good points on going modern. I think if I were to plan a 10+ day trip, I'd take the Randonee. For what I do, 5-7 days, I'd still grab the Alyeska. Feeling like I'm riding in "style" has added something to my tours in the past.
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Hi I have a Univega Gran Tourisimo, 1983 I think. Then I decided to see what it would take to get the Univega in decent road shape. So I took it to a reputable bike shop and they figure around 345 to fix it up, w/ new tires, some new cables, tune up and bottom bracket repair. Seems like a lot to put into an old bike...
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That's $360 total. Cheaper tires would drop the cost, and perhaps they would include some of the cable cost in the tune up, but even on the cheap side it would be $300.
#39
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Get one of each, you will appreciate the difference. I have often thought of starting a touring bike collection, but 1.) I'm pretty small and touring bikes that fit me properly are pretty hard to find. 2.) "Collection" is a Greek word for "watch your money go away and leave you with stuff to keep fixed and secured."

There is someone in the C&V forum who, disappointed with conventional returns on his retiremnt funds, started a collection vintage road bikes--mostly French, IIRC. He posted that's he's done pretty well with it! He's definitely a super-expert in that field.
These are both beautiful bikes! And I second mobile mail on "get one of both."
I think I have "accidentally" started a touring bike collection. I have the Alyeska, and the Green 85 Voyageur that I commute on everyday, but I also picked up a '09 Randonee this winter (too cheap on craigslist) but haven't ridden it yet enough miles to comment more, except to say yes, there are some perks to modern components. I also have an 89' C dale ST frame in the basement like the one you pictured, which I got for $20 and I would send it to you for free had I not just used it as bait to lure a friend into joining in on our tour this summer.
Mobilemail above has good points on going modern. I think if I were to plan a 10+ day trip, I'd take the Randonee. For what I do, 5-7 days, I'd still grab the Alyeska. Feeling like I'm riding in "style" has added something to my tours in the past.
I think I have "accidentally" started a touring bike collection. I have the Alyeska, and the Green 85 Voyageur that I commute on everyday, but I also picked up a '09 Randonee this winter (too cheap on craigslist) but haven't ridden it yet enough miles to comment more, except to say yes, there are some perks to modern components. I also have an 89' C dale ST frame in the basement like the one you pictured, which I got for $20 and I would send it to you for free had I not just used it as bait to lure a friend into joining in on our tour this summer.
Mobilemail above has good points on going modern. I think if I were to plan a 10+ day trip, I'd take the Randonee. For what I do, 5-7 days, I'd still grab the Alyeska. Feeling like I'm riding in "style" has added something to my tours in the past.
Is the "advantage" of modern just equate to NEW? Seems like something like Randonee doesn't have anything much different than the vintage bikes other than that???
STP
Last edited by Porschefan; 04-02-15 at 06:33 PM. Reason: Editing
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The modern advantage is really having a frame suited to modern parts. Modern wheels take wider dropouts, and are 700C instead of 27". Modern frames are also a little more forgiving for wider tired than some of the old frames. The Voyager, for example, maxes out at 27-1/4" if you want any kind of side clearance. And you won't find disk brakes on old frames, which can be handy if loaded touring in mountainous terrain (NOT the strong point of the ST's side pull brakes). Add a beefier 1-1/8" steerer, threadless headset, front rack braze-ons (also missing from many missing vintage frames), close reach bar to compensate for longer bodied bitters, and you have the modern touring bike. Beside that, pretty much the same. :-). Oh yeah, stronger freehubs instead of freewheels.
#41
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The modern advantage is really having a frame suited to modern parts. Modern wheels take wider dropouts, and are 700C instead of 27". Modern frames are also a little more forgiving for wider tired than some of the old frames. The Voyager, for example, maxes out at 27-1/4" if you want any kind of side clearance. And you won't find disk brakes on old frames, which can be handy if loaded touring in mountainous terrain (NOT the strong point of the ST's side pull brakes). Add a beefier 1-1/8" steerer, threadless headset, front rack braze-ons (also missing from many missing vintage frames), close reach bar to compensate for longer bodied bitters, and you have the modern touring bike. Beside that, pretty much the same. :-). Oh yeah, stronger freehubs instead of freewheels.

STP
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The local LBS that I like charges $190 for a complete tune up(all components removed, cleaned, adjusted, and tuned. BB service included), tires would be $120 give or take, new cables and housing is $50.
That's $360 total. Cheaper tires would drop the cost, and perhaps they would include some of the cable cost in the tune up, but even on the cheap side it would be $300.
That's $360 total. Cheaper tires would drop the cost, and perhaps they would include some of the cable cost in the tune up, but even on the cheap side it would be $300.
It does seem like a lot of money to put into an old bike. But on the other hand I know the history of the frame and it was never in a really bad spill, I took resonably good care of it. I did buy it in 84, the serial number starts with M. I could do most of the work myself, but i have other things to do right now, and I want to get it on the road. I almost pulled the trigger on a Jamis Coda Comp, but I was not sure If I liked the flat bar. And I knew I always loved this bike. After reading how many people like this bike I figured I'd keep it.
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That sounds about what I am getting done. It was a long list actually, i think i left off handle bar tape a new brake lever and cable. Also I think there was a $20 misc parts fee that would be refunded minus any parts they actually used. I did go w/ some nicer tires too. The price included new tubes as well, which i may not need, so it could come in closer to $300.
No, its certainly not for everyone, but if you have the time and a co-op nearby to help get you started, I highly recommend it; and the time and tools pay themselves off pretty quickly when you do your own work, help friends with theirs, and have the added bonus of being able to pick up an un-loved bike for cheap and redoing it yourself. It also makes me feel better if I am rural touring and know my bike repair is on my back if something should go wrong.
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$300 is nothing to cough at, but it also isn't extremely expensive.
Spend $300 and have a bike that you love working in perfect shape- seems pretty good to me if it's the bike you want.
There is an argument that you won't get out what you put in when you spend over X amount on a vintage bike. That may be true, but it's also short sighted because the whole point is to use the bike. So you ride it for 2 years and sell it for $150- that means you got 2 extra years of riding the bike for $150. Hardly expensive.
There is also something to be said for getting your hands dirty and doing some of the repairs at home or at your local bike collective.
For about $50 you will have the tools to replace the tires, remove all components and clean them, and service the bottom bracket, wheels, and headset bearings.
Cables and housing will cost you $10 - $50 depending on what you buy and where and you can recable the bike, especially since you have the current cables.
You could still take it to the LBS for a onceover tightening and for wheel trying.
Either way- keep the old steel on the road!
Spend $300 and have a bike that you love working in perfect shape- seems pretty good to me if it's the bike you want.
There is an argument that you won't get out what you put in when you spend over X amount on a vintage bike. That may be true, but it's also short sighted because the whole point is to use the bike. So you ride it for 2 years and sell it for $150- that means you got 2 extra years of riding the bike for $150. Hardly expensive.
There is also something to be said for getting your hands dirty and doing some of the repairs at home or at your local bike collective.
For about $50 you will have the tools to replace the tires, remove all components and clean them, and service the bottom bracket, wheels, and headset bearings.
Cables and housing will cost you $10 - $50 depending on what you buy and where and you can recable the bike, especially since you have the current cables.
You could still take it to the LBS for a onceover tightening and for wheel trying.
Either way- keep the old steel on the road!
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Vintage Nishiki 26" 18 spd Touring Bike
Anyway, just reinforcing the earlier point in the thread that if you do decide to go vintage (or both), be patient, they are out there at a good price.
Last edited by mnmkpedals; 04-03-15 at 12:14 AM.
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This is nothing against the LBS-- I am there a lot too-- but I'm going to give a shout out here to going vintage and to the idea of learning to do your own service. 18 months back, I knew nothing about bike repair, let alone overhaul and rebuilding, and always found it intimidating. After two long Saturdays at the local bike co-op with experts teaching you the ropes, and a heck of a lot of reading (and crazy knowledgable forum members in the C-v forum) I pretty much got proficient with everything (on vintage bikes at least) except headset removal (I'm nothing special when it comes to DIY stuff, so its totally accessible).
No, its certainly not for everyone, but if you have the time and a co-op nearby to help get you started, I highly recommend it; and the time and tools pay themselves off pretty quickly when you do your own work, help friends with theirs, and have the added bonus of being able to pick up an un-loved bike for cheap and redoing it yourself. It also makes me feel better if I am rural touring and know my bike repair is on my back if something should go wrong.
No, its certainly not for everyone, but if you have the time and a co-op nearby to help get you started, I highly recommend it; and the time and tools pay themselves off pretty quickly when you do your own work, help friends with theirs, and have the added bonus of being able to pick up an un-loved bike for cheap and redoing it yourself. It also makes me feel better if I am rural touring and know my bike repair is on my back if something should go wrong.
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Hemming and hawing, hawing and hemming. You need to make a decision. If you're interested, a friend has asked me to tear down and rebuild his '84 (I think) Trek 620. Not sure what he'd want for it. He's taller and the bike is in good shape, as he never rode it hard or toured with it.
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I've been building up light touring bikes for years (resto-mod style) --too match an annual trip we do in Wisconsin. My favorite donor frames seem to be late 90s LeMond frames. But exact features depend on your target type of tours. Fenders, racks, tire sizes, etc vary widely. Our annual trip is ~700 miles with some support (motels, clothes transported in vehicles). But we're pretty much on our own for each day's miles (all repairs, flats, weather, etc) with one exception: if someone is hurt or a bike is destroyed, they call for a pickup (and wait for quite a while. But that almost never happens. We can fix almost anything). If the skies open up with a deluge, we find a local bar and wait it out mostly. So my builds commonly have a minimal rear fender but no front. In a medium rain that can be a pain but at least I don't get a steady hosing up the back side. I also have been going bigger and softer on tires. This had led me to do several 650b conversions to get clearance for 38s. Next years trip (25th annual) is SW Wisconsin and very hilly --so I may be using a super light CF roadie converted to 650b with frame packs and small rear fender.
Last edited by dbg; 04-03-15 at 08:50 AM.