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Disc Brakes my thoughts

Old 04-30-15, 02:32 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by mdilthey
...Great. You wanna scroll up, there might be a nun or an orphan you can pick a fight with next.
Funny.
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Old 05-01-15, 01:35 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Mr IGH
A better method is to loosen the caliper mounting bolts, turn the inner pad adjuster all the way out, then one full turn inward, then turn the outer pad adjuster all the way in until the brake is locked up, tighten the caliper mounting bolts. Now the caliper is perfectly alined. Next, turn the inner pad adjuster out 1/2 turn and the outer pad adjuster out until the brake lever is pulling the cable and the pads aren't rubbing. Here's a good video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NasGJFtgq0A
Originally Posted by 3speed
Ooo, that sounds pretty good. I'll try it next time I set some up. Thanks for posting!
Yes, another thanks for that. A nice easy summary without having to look at the video.
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Old 05-01-15, 02:08 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by mdilthey
... DO think OP is frustrated.
Here's my FYI with disc brakes ..
I tend to agree, the BB-n brakes can be good, but not necessarily a replacement for rim brakes. I do agree the rotors are bendy, so am extra cautious putting the bike in my car, and carry a small Crescent wrench in case I bend a rotor.

Using BB-5, the bastard child predecessor to BB-7, with smaller pads and only inside pad adjustment. I set mine up using similar steps as above, having never touched discs before. (refer to the original post for details). One thing not mentioned that I saw anywhere is use a business card as a spacer at the start of the setup when everything else is loose. Not my idea, lots of suggestions here on BF and YouTube.

I have read countless times contaminated pads (with grease or oil) will ruin the pads and braking will never be right. Don't know if that's true, but I have been very careful about grease on the pads and clean rotors. I use brake cleaner on rotors.

Mine seemed mushy after a rebuild, thought it was totally the full length cable compressing, but messing with the brakes until it was a 5 minute job, I finally can get great mtb braking easily. Actually had to open them up a bit so I could pull the V-Brake levers just about half way before engaging. I tested them riding asphalt, scary braking power when wet - no degradation, but did get squealing for a few seconds. Didn't squeal with a half hr on the dry singletrack, where I was on the brakes most of the time.
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Last edited by RoadTire; 05-01-15 at 02:19 AM.
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Old 05-01-15, 08:35 AM
  #54  
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When it comes to finding parts on the road, are many of you seeing most smaller shops having what you need to get you going again, such as spare pads, rotors, etc. Just curious as to whether Avid, Shimano, etc. disc parts are now more readily available than they were a few years ago. (Realizing of course that extra pads and such won't be difficult to carry within a pannier)
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Old 05-01-15, 11:59 AM
  #55  
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I guess it depends on where one is, but I would just add that in the times that I have been in Costa Rica in the last few years, in the small town where I have friends, mtn biking is pretty big and in this small town the bike shops seem to have a good selection of stuff, simply because discs have been on mtn bikes for a good while now.

as you say though, a set of extra pads weighs so little and takes up so little space it really isnt an issue, and keeping a spare disc slid down inside a pannier is very doable also.
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Old 05-02-15, 04:33 PM
  #56  
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I just set up a bike using TRP Spyre mechanical discs. After a couple hundred miles of mixed road, gravel, and single track, I have to give them the nod over BB7's. They stop and feel good and they just don't call attention to themselves. I seem to always notice and have to think about my BB7's. I do think that most any kind of brake of reasonable quality can be set up to work well, I just believe having really good brakes is a smart idea and discs fill that bill for me.
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Old 05-02-15, 07:04 PM
  #57  
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Getting my bike set up for a trip in June. Still waiting for a Revelate Designs harness for the front, and will get a dry bag to fit. Disc brakes are going to get a workout.

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Old 05-02-15, 08:23 PM
  #58  
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alan,
love your ride. Do you get much flex from the rear triangle or bottom bracket area on the Lynsk if you're weighted pretty heavy in the rear and you go to jump out of the saddle when climbing?
Or are you much smarter than I by keeping weight down on the rear of your Ti frame?
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Old 05-03-15, 06:15 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by robow
alan,
love your ride. Do you get much flex from the rear triangle or bottom bracket area on the Lynsk if you're weighted pretty heavy in the rear and you go to jump out of the saddle when climbing?
Or are you much smarter than I by keeping weight down on the rear of your Ti frame?
I have the weight spread out as much as possible. The 2015 frame has been stiffened quite a bit with tube shaping. I didn't notice any flexing in the rear while riding around the neighborhood, but didn't really give it a full test. I was really looking more for handling and weight distribution. I'll test it out today, because that is an important point, and I do quite a bit of climbing out of the saddle.
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Old 05-04-15, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by alan s
I have the weight spread out as much as possible. The 2015 frame has been stiffened quite a bit with tube shaping. I didn't notice any flexing in the rear while riding around the neighborhood, but didn't really give it a full test. I was really looking more for handling and weight distribution. I'll test it out today, because that is an important point, and I do quite a bit of climbing out of the saddle.
Alan, that is one sweet ride. Lynksey makes some darn fine looking bikes and a Backroad is high on my list of dream bikes but I'd have a hard time parting with the cash without a test ride.

My Hy/Rd disc setup in commute mode. The discs are growing on me, slowly, and I do like them in wet weather and on hills but if I were to buy another bike I wouldn't be too concerned whether or not it is disc capable.

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Old 05-04-15, 05:09 PM
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Probably mentioned already, I just read the first page. If the BBs are not giving strong braking most likely reason is a mix up where the MTB lever ones are on your road bike.
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Old 05-04-15, 05:39 PM
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I just test rode a Fuji Sportif 1.3 with Promax Render r disk brakes and Tiagra group set .I thought they sucked... It was a bad 1st ride I guess. The Ron brakes on my New Adone are way better.
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Old 05-04-15, 07:57 PM
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I'm really happy with the setup on the Lynskey. No noticeable rear end flexing, and with the weight spread out, the handling is excellent. A thru axle in the rear could stiffen things up a bit, but not necessary. Also, when my new touring wheels arrive, everything should be a tad bit stiffer. My test of balance is riding with no hands, and it tracks straight and solid.

Last edited by alan s; 05-04-15 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 06-25-15, 06:14 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by alathIN
My bike came with Shimano hydraulic discs, and none of the things you describe have ever happened to me. They stop instantly; very noticeably stronger than any other kind of bike brakes I have ever tried. They don't rub. I haven't had to adjust them ever, despite taking the wheels off multiple times. They make no noise riding or braking, except for the first split-second of braking after they get wet.
That has been my experience with Shimano XTs -- they are excellent and take no effort.

I had BB5s and Avid Elixirs and they were both a PITA -- rub issues, hard to adjust, hard to bleed the Avids.
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Old 06-25-15, 07:36 AM
  #65  
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Loaded up my Soma Saga Disc with 50lbs of water and went for a 30mile ride with two big climbs/decents. Cleared 40mph, hit the BB7s and slowed down with confidence. Never going back to rim brakes on my tourer that also serves as my commuter and gravel grinder.
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