SpiritCyclist

So, I am planning my first big tour for the late summer/early fall, from Rhode Island to Colorado. I'd like to use my 1997 Diamondback Sorrento--it's a rigid frame steel MTB that I've been using as my commuter/grocery bike for the past couple years. It also has sentimental value, since it was my brother's first "real" bike back in the day (the bike habit stuck with me more than him). Right now, it's got mostly original components, though I've replaced the chain and cassette, as well as the busted shifters and a few other odds and ends. I'm mainly concerned about the wheelset--should I upgrade, or keep the originals? I overhauled the hubs recently with new ball bearings and grease, but the cones on both hubs are getting pretty pitted. Also, I'm not sure how worn the rims are. They are "Kin Lin" 36 spoke rims.

I could get a set of these wheels at Nashbar: Sun Ringlé Rhyno Lite / Shimano Deore 525 Mountain Wheelset

Would it be worth it, or will the stock wheels be OK? I could put that money towards a tent, which I'll need.

Another consideration is the BB. I bought a replacement UN-55 unit for the old one, but I couldn't get the drive side crank off due to stripped threads. D'oh! Is there any reason to suspect the old BB will fail? It still spins smoothly, I just figured it was time to replace it.

One more thing is the handlebars. I've looked at the Nashbar trekking bars, but I am pretty comfortable riding the original straight bars. Any reason not to keep them?

I've read "you can tour on anything" but I'm just looking for people's advice, gained from experience.

Thanks in advance!

mijome07

I also got the same wheelset, but in silver. I got them cheaper too (price+shipping+tax).

fietsbob

Before Touring Off into the hinterlands, I'd Overhaul the Bike and bring it back into a near New Mechanical Base.

stripped threads means you take the crank arm, off by other means . buy a new crank arm or crankset + BB.

you dont want a break down to leave a 2 day walk/ ride hitch to do. at least I don't

SpiritCyclist

Thanks, fietsbob. That's what I was thinking. I have the crank bolt loose, and I'm gonna just ride it around till it falls off. Then replace BB and find a new crankset.

Tourist in MSN

Will that frame have enough heel clearance for panniers with the rack you plan to use? Some mountain bikes can have short chainstays.

Are the stripped threads the ones that you put a crank puller into?

If it was me, I would want to have a crank that I can pull off, just in case. If you already have the bottom bracket, might as well put the bottom bracket on. Maybe buy a new cheap crankset?

I bought a Vuelta crankset a couple years ago for square taper bottom bracket - the price was unbelievably low, but I am quite happy with it. I think I got it on Amazon.

A friend of mine had to use a hack saw to get a crank arm off a bottom bracket. Not fun.

If you buy that new wheelset, make sure that there is enough grease in the hubs. Shimano has on occasion been stingy with the amount of grease they use in a new hub. I usually use Phil grease in hubs.

A couple years ago I pulled a bottom bracket out of a early 1990s frame that had seen a lot of water over the years. Took many hours of penetrating oil, heat from a hair dryer (I did not want too much heat that could damage paint) and a lot of leverage and force to get it out. An obstinate bottom bracket is best dealt with at home when you have time to deal with it.

MassiveD

Get the crank arm replaced, and the BB, it should be a cheap replacement. I had a similar problem and they did the left arm for about 20 bucks, and I was back on the road. No BB replacement, but sounds like you can handle that. By the way, a bearing puller might get your arm off:



You are going far enough that your bike will probably change in some respect. Even new bikes will have problems by the 500 mile mark, like the initial pedal tightening loosening up, and leaving one looking for a really large pedal wrench. You don't want to be out there looking for stuff to fix somethign you couldn't budge in the home shop.

I don't think much of either of those bars. But I think the best thing rather than taking people's random suggestions would be to ask yourself what the problem is with your current bars. If you would like to be more stretched out, then some trekking bars that sit entirely forward of the stem attachement might help. If you feel the twist is un-natural then you can look for TBs with more natural hand position (the older ones are almost worse, but some of the newer ones are improvements). TBS can also bracket hand positions for and aft the stem for some more upright, and some lower, but not by much. Most old school MTBS have touring length wheel bases, but the head angle is such that the reach is shorter than on a road bike, so analysing your position, possibly with the help of an online fit program is a good place to start, or just listening to your body. But the overall point is that it is about you and making choices that make you more comfortable an efficient from a rational perspective, not some fanboy preference for one look or another you dig up on a forum.

SpiritCyclist

Thank you all for the thoughtful replies! It sounds like a new crankset is in order. I have the replacement BB ready to go--just need to get that old crank off. @MassiveD, I appreciate the insight on the bar situation. As it is, I feel quite comfortable on the bike. I'm thinking that I will add some bar-ends, just for an additional hand position, but otherwise leave the flat bars alone.
@Tourist in MSN, I measured 17" (432mm) for the chainstay. From what I've read, that should be adequate. I realize I'm working with something less than ideal. I've had my eye out for a vintage tourer, but it's been hard to find one in my size. Plus, I like the idea of using this bike, since it's been in the family so long.

SpiritCyclist

OK, I ran down to the bike co-op and grabbed a pair of bar ends for five bucks. Mounted them up, wrapped some bar tape on them, and I like them a lot. It's nice to have an alternative hand position.

I have a Topeak Explorer rack mounted up, and I just ordered some panniers from Nashbar. I'm hoping that there won't be clearance (heel strike) issues. We'll see!

Johnny Mullet

A good set of urban or semi-slick tires with the new wheels would be a good idea. Not sure if you been running knobbies while commuting or not. Before going on your tour, load up and rack up and take a 2-3 day "test run" to get a feel of the loaded bike bike and the camping procedure tested out.

SpiritCyclist

Thanks, Johnny Mullet. Yeah, I changed over the tires but a new set of semi-slicks is on the way. I plan to do some trial runs this summer, so hopefully I'll get most of the issues sorted. The bike is only one part of the equation!

saddlesores

upgrade/repair/refurbish......ride.

1. crank arm threads stripped? you should be able to remove it with a
gear puller from any old engine repair shop. or just have 'em cut it off
with the angle grinder. lucky they don't need to worry about damaging
the bottom bracket.

2. of course, before you do that, find a replacement. bike shop takeoff
bin might have some. search ebay! "right crank arm" got 246 hits, such as
this one for $10! some even come with new rings! (do check the length)

New Old Stock Aluminum Alloy Triple Right Crankarm 170 Mm | eBay

2. BB's last a looooong time. if still smooth and no play, still good.
but they're cheap, and you already bought the replacement. install it
and you'll feel better.

3. learn to number your lists correctly.

4. pitted cones? bike shop should have replacements.

5. wheels are probably still good. 36-spoke mtb wheels are plenty
strong for touring. how much weight will you be carrying? if they
work for commuting/grocerying.......

7. i did tens of thousands of miles of light touring (20-25kg)
on rough roads/trails in asia on an alu diamondback wildwood,
pretty much using the bike as purchased. largeish rear bags,
size 12 feets. no issues.

SpiritCyclist

Aw man, those were the exact words I needed to hear! My goal is not to obsess over the bike, but to get it up to snuff so that I can hit the open road. I don't want to fall victim to "analysis paralysis."

I was reading a journal on the Crazyguyonabike site (which is a killer website, by the way) and there was a story about a guy who said he wanted to bike around the world. But first, he needed to rent his house. So he decided to do some work on the windows, which needed repairing. Then he decided to paint the house, then do some yardwork, and on and on and on...until years later, the windows needed fixing again. The point being, the only way to ride around the world is to get on the bike and start pedaling.

So yes, old parts will be replaced, but generally I won't worry too much. Oh, and I did ask the LBS about new cones...and they were $40!!! I figured it wasn't really worth it.

Anyway, thanks again.

fietsbob

The number of Sailboats Bought for round the world sailing , that never left the local seas are many, some still on Shoring in front yards.

Tourist in MSN

A friend of mine got some cheap panniers with plain metal hooks that the panniers hung from. He had to drill out some rivets and move one of two hooks on each to a new location to get the heel clearance he needed. If you try that, drilling out rivets can be time consuming, you can't drill to fast or hard because of the heat.

mstateglfr 

Ha ha ha- gold!

SpiritCyclist

Thanks again for the insight, everyone. I did end up ordering a new set of wheels, since I noticed the braking surface on my rear wheel was quite worn/concave. Don't want my tour to end before it begins. I found a good set of wheels on ebay via Velospace.

A visit to a local bike shop today put a lot of things in perspective for me. This is the kind of shop where everything is carbon fiber, 11 speed cassettes, the works. There were guys coming in who looked like they hadn't put a single mile on their space-age plastic machine of a bike, asking for "tune ups." First, it made me feel good about my old-bike-recycling ways and DIY mindset. Second, it made me realize that $150 for a set of wheels that will last for the next 10,000 miles is a pretty good deal

mijome07

What wheels did you get? Used or new?

SpiritCyclist

These: https://www.ebay.com/itm/331341613694...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

mijome07

Ok. Same wheel set, just different hubs. Your '97 bike has disc brakes?

SpiritCyclist

Haha, no it does not. Shoot. This is why I need to stop buying things on the internet

Can you use Rhyno Lites with cantilever brakes?

mijome07

I got the same wheel set from pricepoint.com and they are rim brake only. The description in the eBay listing says disc or v-brake.

Cancel that order and get them where I linked. You'll save $$. And the ones I got are hand-built.

SpiritCyclist

I see, those are quite a bit cheaper. The wheels have already shipped, so I'd have to wait for them to arrive, then return them. Thanks for the tip!

saddlesores

think dentists + harleys = posing at hooters friday margarita night


10K? 50K and beyoooooooond!

SpiritCyclist

@saddlesores, you are cracking me up!!!

bradtx

Call velomine to determine whether the rims are disk brake only. They're a good company to work with in my experience. They build a good wheel, but may need some final tensioning.

Brad