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An alternative to bringing spokes is thishttp://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC
I havent used it, but have read about it and the product seems legit. You don’t need a cassette tool either, just need to be able to thread the cable thru the hub. |
So is the chain whip tool pretty much as the thing I made for removing rear track cogs eons ago. An AL 1/4 x 1" bar about 16" long. small piece of chain on the bar, and a longer piece to wrap around the cog to pull it off thread. I guess I need 2 for a cassette. Drill some holes to make it lighter? Am I thinking right?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
(Post 18363805)
Ever the need to point out made in China, as if that has anything to do with the topic.So Axiom panniers are like Apple’s iphone.Perfect.
You can test Axiom products in a store. |
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
(Post 18363834)
An alternative to bringing spokes is thishttp://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC
I havent used it, but have read about it and the product seems legit. You don’t need a cassette tool either, just need to be able to thread the cable thru the hub. |
Originally Posted by Squeezebox
(Post 18363884)
So is the chain whip tool pretty much as the thing I made for removing rear track cogs eons ago. An AL 1/4 x 1" bar about 16" long. small piece of chain on the bar, and a longer piece to wrap around the cog to pull it off thread. I guess I need 2 for a cassette. Drill some holes to make it lighter? Am I thinking right?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Squeezebox
(Post 18363884)
So is the chain whip tool pretty much as the thing I made for removing rear track cogs eons ago. An AL 1/4 x 1" bar about 16" long. small piece of chain on the bar, and a longer piece to wrap around the cog to pull it off thread. I guess I need 2 for a cassette. Drill some holes to make it lighter? Am I thinking right?
Thanks! http://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...l#post18363382 |
Originally Posted by Squeezebox
(Post 18363884)
So is the chain whip tool pretty much as the thing I made for removing rear track cogs eons ago. An AL 1/4 x 1" bar about 16" long. small piece of chain on the bar, and a longer piece to wrap around the cog to pull it off thread. I guess I need 2 for a cassette. Drill some holes to make it lighter? Am I thinking right?
Thanks! You touring on a Fixie? Freehubs with a Lock ring . Ive been told *, A bunch of pretty wide Zip Ties can fix the biggest cog to the spokes , Then If you did not overtighten it the lock ring will come out with a tool not much bigger than a freewheel remover .. and a Big wrench .. its the big wrench you probably have to borrow from a Local in the next town you limp into. In the shop you only need 1 chain whip and a wrench to un screw the lock ring tool .. on a freehub.. 2 chainwhips get used to tear down Multi speed freewheels to the bare Body .. (1/8" steel flat bar (Hot Rolled )) Hardly needed since nobody sells new cogs for freewheels any more, its All or nothing. * my tours were on freewheels . 48 spoke tandem rear hub.. (47 spare spokes already in the wheel worked out well ) 2 Chinas, There were the 2 sides of the Chinese revolution , the loser, escaped & took over the Island of Taiwan ROC .. the winner has the Mainland Mao's successors of the PRC |
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
(Post 18363805)
Ever the need to point out made in China, as if that has anything to do with the topic.So Axiom panniers are like Apple’s iphone.Perfect.
You can test Axiom products in a store. There are countries I prefer to support over others. YMMV |
So... if you are running a 36 spoke rear wheel and break a spoke, do you need to replace it immediately or can you ride it Macgyvered to the next shop?
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 18364245)
....Then If you did not overtighten it the lock ring will come out with a tool not much bigger than a freewheel remover ..and a Big wrench .. its the big wrench you probably have to borrow from a Local....
wrench (if the jaws open wide enough.). can hold the cassette by hand, with an old sock or rag or whatever you find on the roadside. oh, yeah, that'll get your drive side spokes. and the other side? don't forget your T5 torx wrench to remove the brake rotor....unless you replace the bolts with standard hex type. |
Originally Posted by rifraf
(Post 18364441)
Country of origin is important to some of us.
There are countries I prefer to support over others. YMMV Yes I agree that some people care. And that's cool to care. What's lame is constantly making vague and generalized comments and being dismissive of products due to the country of origin rather than the products themselves. Also, it's nuts, especially in this industry where very few bike are made by the company whose name is on the downtube, to be dismissive of a company for outsourcing manufacturing. Few cycling companies literally stitch the clothing and accessories which display their name. |
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
(Post 18364590)
Edited.
Yes I agree that some people care. And that's cool to care. What's lame is constantly making vague and generalized comments and being dismissive of products due to the country of origin rather than the products themselves. Also, it's nuts, especially in this industry where very few bike are made by the company whose name is on the downtube, to be dismissive of a company for outsourcing manufacturing. Few cycling companies literally stitch the clothing and accessories which display their name. Until the movement away from the east gets enough voices jobs will forever be at risk in the west who can't compete with the poor pay and conditions those in the east are forced to slave under. I don't think the comments are lame at all and applaud efforts to highlight this issue. Indeed I look upon them as patriotic The only thing thats nuts is your attack on someone who dares offer an opinion different than yours. Surely you can find better labels for fellow forum members than lame and nuts? |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 18363382)
Spare spokes in seatpost held in with a wine cork, I used some electrical tape to make the cork fit tighter after it dried out. I like it - thanks for sharing. I've been stuffing them inside my handlebars up to now, but it's good to have another option to consider, especially now that my new bars are curved and I've yet to look to see if my spare spoke storage idea is still going to work. I'll enjoy emptying a few bottles of Shiraz in a search for the perfect cork.... |
Originally Posted by rifraf
(Post 18364650)
....in the west who can't compete with the poor pay and conditions those in the east are forced to slave under....
typical china bashing from faux news and co.? i suppose the pay, hours, and working conditions aren't quite up to western standards, but compared to conditions here in "our china" only a decade ago, they're light-years better. no-one is forced (okay, there may be some prison labor somewhere, but i have no first-hand knowledge) to "slave away" in foxconn or shimano factories. these are awesome jobs for the current environment! 50-60 hours a week? 10-hour shifts? $500 monthly wages? oh the horror!!! think about what they're leaving behind: 12 hours a day every day...that's 84 hours!....no weekends....few holidays.......working in the sun, knee-deep in mud behind a water buffalo in a rice paddy......living in a thatched roof hut with no running water or electricity, one long-dump outhouse for an entire village......all for the princely sum of (on average) $30 a month. these slave-labor factories have raised 300 million people....just about the entire population of the united states....out of poverty over the last decade. leave the village for the big city, work a year or two making a huge salary (comparatively), go back to the village, build a house or start a business or send your kid to college so they can have a future. perhaps you might read up a little on the subject. until then, stick with the "war on christmas" |
Originally Posted by saddlesores
(Post 18364749)
poor pay and conditions? slave labor in factories....in china? are you nuts? have you any idea...other than the
typical china bashing from faux news and co.? i suppose the pay, hours, and working conditions aren't quite up to western standards, but compared to conditions here in "our china" only a decade ago, they're light-years better. no-one is forced (okay, there may be some prison labor somewhere, but i have no first-hand knowledge) to "slave away" in foxconn or shimano factories. these are awesome jobs for the current environment! 50-60 hours a week? 10-hour shifts? $500 monthly wages? oh the horror!!! think about what they're leaving behind: 12 hours a day every day...that's 84 hours!....no weekends....few holidays.......working in the sun, knee-deep in mud behind a water buffalo in a rice paddy......living in a thatched roof hut with no running water or electricity, one long-dump outhouse for an entire village......all for the princely sum of (on average) $30 a month. these slave-labor factories have raised 300 million people....just about the entire population of the united states....out of poverty over the last decade. leave the village for the big city, work a year or two making a huge salary (comparatively), go back to the village, build a house or start a business or send your kid to college so they can have a future. perhaps you might read up a little on the subject. until then, stick with the "war on christmas" Mine still stands that you shouldn't come in here bandying about names like lame and nuts. Stop using your head as a suppository and allow for the fact that others have different opinions to yourself and that they are no less valid for that. I'm still going to buy products not manufactured in China where I'm able and support locally made/grown where I can. There will be times that I will succumb to the temptation of price but think a lot more these days of where my money is spent and who it supports. I prefer that my money supports blue collar workers in countries where I reside, where many have lost their jobs due in part to cheaper labour costs of non western countries. I dont blame these countries workers for wanting their lifestyles lifted, but it must be done in acknowledgement that its at the expense of blue collar workers in the west. |
Originally Posted by rifraf
(Post 18364650)
Perhaps thats why blue collar unemployment has been such a issue in the west.
Until the movement away from the east gets enough voices jobs will forever be at risk in the west who can't compete with the poor pay and conditions those in the east are forced to slave under. I don't think the comments are lame at all and applaud efforts to highlight this issue. Indeed I look upon them as patriotic The only thing thats nuts is your attack on someone who dares offer an opinion different than yours. Surely you can find better labels for fellow forum members than lame and nuts? 2- I didn't call anyone lame or nuts. I did say that it is lame to use vague generalizations to dismiss a product based on the country of origin instead of based on the product itself. And I said that it is nuts to dismiss a company just because it doesn't literally make the products it sells because that is the MO for probably 85% of the industry. That is the norm. Do you see the difference? That line of thinking is nuts and absurd, and I explained why. I didn't just emotionally call a poster names, like you suggest. If you want me to find better labels, I could say 'ignorant of modern economics and manufacturing.' Not sure if that would be any better though? ...I kid, I kid. Well this thread has the potential to be more controversial than that 'why are UL tourers hated' thread! |
Originally Posted by Happy Feet
(Post 18364496)
So... if you are running a 36 spoke rear wheel and break a spoke, do you need to replace it immediately or can you ride it Macgyvered to the next shop?
|
Originally Posted by rifraf
(Post 18364820)
some stuff.
please don't feel threatened by my opinion. it won't hurt....much. you are entitled to your opinion, but would be easier to get into my suppository head if you actually had your own opinion, not one mass-marketed on the aye-emm raydio. you wanna support locally-made products? great, you're awesome. lotsa great reasons to do so. but claiming chinese products are produced by slave labor? you sorta lose credibility there. regardless, you can't blame the chinese for having lower manufacturing costs. not when they still have 250,000,000 living in poverty. they'll be happy to take those jobs. you CAN blame your corporations that move the jobs to low-cost countries to save on salaries and taxes and environmental standards. you also CAN blame your government that allows it. i guess you can also blame capitalism, but then you can't blame the communists....oh, gosh, thinking is hard! slave labor! ps. you don't have to quote an entire post. just the relevant parts will do. |
Originally Posted by chasm54
(Post 18364950)
You can probably true the wheel and ride it in. But it depends - on how heavily loaded, on what you're riding over, on how far the next shop is. Touring on roads in developed countries with moderate loads you'll probably get away with it. Riding the pave on Paris-Roubaix with 50lbs of gear on the back, not so much.
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Originally Posted by chasm54
(Post 18364950)
You can probably true the wheel and ride it in.
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Originally Posted by saddlesores
(Post 18364563)
.. and the other side? don't forget your T5 torx wrench
to remove the brake rotor....unless you replace the bolts with standard hex type. * I have a Schmidt made Centerlock compatible SON Hub on my Bike Friday .. Packing to travel The front wheel being removed, the front one is the main one that will have potential disc bending.. |
Originally Posted by bikemig
(Post 18362585)
45 liters is not a large amount of capacity. You might want to forgo the front rack at least to save some weight and go with some bike packing type bags like this,
Revelate Designs LLC You can also check these out, Anything Cage HD | Parts & Accessories | Salsa Cycles Alternatively, with 45 liters and careful packing, you could easily get away with a rear rack and 2 panniers and a smallish front bag. The Relevate bags work for their intended purpose of off-road bike packing. I have a full set but I don't know that I would use them for a tour that is on pavement or is mostly on pavement. They are a compromise at best off-road with the load being very high and they make the handling a bit squirrelly and the space is severely limited.
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
(Post 18362594)
http://www.bikeforums.net/touring/1035089-60-front-40-back-recommended-weight-distribution-what-your-opinion.html
Here is an extended thread that’s recent.Good info in there. This is all preference.There isnt a hard set rule that must be followed one way or the other.As a result, people are all over the spectrum on preference.I will say that its an interesting topic for me for the very reason that there is no right or wrong answer. I have done both the 4 bag setup and the rear only setup.My views are-
I have some 45L Axiom panniers and with both fully loaded, the front end of my bike really easily rises up.It rides perfectly fine, but every trip ive taken with fully loaded rears only has been relatively flat with gradual slight inclines.With steep hills, rear only weight becomes more of an issue both going up and coming down. Ill continue to do some rides(shorter intra-state trips) with the rears only because they are convenient.Having only 2 bags instead of 4 means less to carry around and less to have to clip to my bike.I can also use my favorite bike as it only has a rear rack. If you do go the 2 bag route, perhaps consider still having a front rack to carry some items.Depending on the rack(platform style), you could lash that bear canister to it and/or some bulky things like the sleeping bag or tent.Itll take some bulk from the rear panniers away and help offset the weight imbalance. I live and camp in Colorado, by the way, and I've never found the need for any kind of bear canister. A bit of parachute cord is enough to hoist the food bags off the ground as well as keeping a very clean, bear resistant camp.
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18362561)
Well...I bought a Surly Ogre, though I haven't picked it up, yet. LOL
As for camping equipment, I have experience and equipment from multi-week backpacking PCT, Gilla Wilderness, inside the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone and Bridger-Teton Forests, and Indiana forests. You did notice I was looking at 45 litre (total) bags, right? Hardly the size for carrying the kitchen sink. So, I am researching a flexible system, suitable for a Surly Ogre, as I mentioned in my post. As for a route, I'm now thinking my first tour will be Route 66 to TransAmerica to Colorado, or possibly Utah if I can handle the grade. If climbing gets to be too much in Colorado for this old geezer, I can just turn around! [MENTION=242190]elcruxio[/MENTION]: Yeah, I thought that I read something along those lines in a mountain bike forum. As for your route, are you planning on a road tour or a mountain bike tour? Which one should definitely influence how you carry your stuff and how you outfit your bike. For example, a mountain bike tour would include knobbier (but slower) tires and you'd want to carry your gear higher to avoid hitting objects on rougher roads. That does have an effect on the handling of the bike, however. One other thing to consider when mountain bike touring, you aren't going to be making runs up too many single tracks through the woods. Dirt roads, yes but not single track. At least not unless you want to be horribly frustrated. Single track on a loaded mountain bike is not fun. But your route sounds more like a road tour and I would suggest you approach it as such. Run smooth tires and go for a lower center of gravity on the larger part of your load, i.e. use panniers and lowriders. The bike will handle better and you won't be fighting it as much. As for riding up mountains in Colorado, our mountains have altitude but not attitude. You will seldom find a paved road with a grade over 7% here. In the eastern part of the US, they just point a road up and over a mountain and hang the grade...I've done some 25% grades in the Appalachias...but here in Colorado we aren't that dumb. We don't like people sliding off our roads. Granted you won't have as much air here but at least our roads are easier:thumb: |
Originally Posted by Happy Feet
(Post 18364496)
So... if you are running a 36 spoke rear wheel and break a spoke, do you need to replace it immediately or can you ride it Macgyvered to the next shop?
- rim brakes or disc? (Rim brakes needs a rim to be trued better.) - how much weight on the wheel? (That is obvious) - drive side or other side? (Drive side is under more tension on almost all bikes, harder on a rim if you ride without it.) - surface that you are riding on? (Smooth pavement easier on a rim.) - how good the quality of your rim is? (Obvious.) - rime diameter? (I think a 26 inch vs 700c is not much different, but some would say the 26 inch is a stronger rim.) - how much you value keeping that rim compared to replacing it later? (If you don't care about trashing it, go for it.) - how far are you going to go? (Shorter distance is better.) I was in a campground this past August, someone was mountain biking (not touring) on a pretty tough trail. He broke a spoke, was worried about riding teh bike. I asked and he did not care if he had to buy a new rim when he got home (he was car camping). So, we loosened a couple adjacent spokes to make it a bit truer, but he had disc brakes so it did not have to be really true. He then went back out on the trail and started hammering on it again. It was a good rim, I don't think he trashed it, but he drove hundreds of miles to get to that trai for the weekendl, he would have gladly paid for a new rim and the cost to have it put on. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18365738)
45 liters is a huge amount of capacity! I use Ortlieb front and rear Rollers and seldom fill the rear (40 l) bag beyond half capacity. The only reason that I use the rear ones is so that I have more space for bulky, but lightweight, items. The heavy, denser stuff goes in the front bags as I've found through many years of experience that the 60:40 front/rear split results in a bike that handles better. In some instances I'll go with a set front of bags only if I'm not carrying enough to justify the rear bag.
The Relevate bags work for their intended purpose of off-road bike packing. I have a full set but I don't know that I would use them for a tour that is on pavement or is mostly on pavement. They are a compromise at best off-road with the load being very high and they make the handling a bit squirrelly and the space is severely limited. snip . . . |
Originally Posted by chasm54
(Post 18363304)
Nope. I tape the spokes inside the seatpost. The rest fits in the outside pocket of a Vaude rear pannier. I'd say that together they weigh not much more than one pound, certainly nowhere near two.
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