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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18367804)
The Nano Comps don't look like they are very road friendly. Looking at the tread, I'd call them a good off-pavement to moderately good single track tire. But they wouldn't be that good on-road, especially if you are doing a lot of miles before you hit the off-pavement part. All you'll do is speed a lot of energy wearing down the knobs and making them useless by the time you reach the "off-pavement" part. Use a smoother tire for the on-road part and switch tires to a more aggressive off-pavement tire once you get here. I'm not trying to talk you out of going off-pavement (different from "off-road") in Colorado but don't waste energy when you don't need to.
.... The tire in the photo is 57mm wide. Sorry I don't have a better photo. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=491774 |
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18367795)
I was just reading about the Katy Trail in Missouri. I think that I will incorporate it in my route.
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Originally Posted by Squeezebox
(Post 18368129)
Check with Trailnet in St. louis they can tell you about some paths into IL.
The easiest way from the Katy Trail into Illinois is the Clark Bridge in Alton, IL. RAAM uses it. The Clark Bridge has very wide shoulders and is part of a bike path system. |
Originally Posted by JerrySTL
(Post 18370531)
The Old Chain of Rocks Bridge is a great way to cross the Mississippi River - when it's open. It's often locked.
The easiest way from the Katy Trail into Illinois is the Clark Bridge in Alton, IL. RAAM uses it. The Clark Bridge has very wide shoulders and is part of a bike path system. |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 18368044)
There should be some tires out there that are reasonably good for both. I have used the (now discontiued) Schwalbe Marathon Extreme for off road and on road riding. Noisy on road, but rolled almost as efficiently as some of my road tires. And I had good grip off road.
The tire in the photo is 57mm wide. Sorry I don't have a better photo.
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18367982)
I am always grateful for any advice/help I can get! In this case, though, my plans are in such a state of flux, or evolving if you will, that I am afraid that it is too early to get very specific. For example, I joined warmshowers.org (bicycle community with reciprocal hosting services) after seeing it in Apple apps. In their forum, I saw someone post about riders joining up for a trip on the Katy Trail--it runs east-west for about 240 miles over crushed limestone in Missouri. (I haven't decided whether to join the OP yet--I think that he will be leaving before I can give my students their final exam, or maybe I give them a take home that they email to me! He starts less than 30 miles from my house, and he's going from Chicago-land to Colorado by way of Route 66--Katy Trail--TransAmerica.) I also noticed another, even longer, trail across Nebraska (Cowboy Trail) but that would be way out of my way. Maybe I can find another long trail across Kansas? LOL
Although I am loath to suggest another state, you might also want to consider aiming for South Dakota and the Black Hills and/or Wyoming and Yellowstone rather than Colorado and Utah. Utah gets warm in the summer.
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18367982)
Who's to say whether I wear out the stock tires long before I leave?! And yesterday I showed my wife photos of the nearby Erie-Lackawanna Trail (http://www.traillink.com/trail-photo...a-trail.aspx); she got so excited that I bought her a simple cruiser bike to get her started. Devious, ain't I? LOL
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18365738)
I wouldn't say that a 2 bag system is all that great for convenience. From the standpoint of actually getting into the bags to get out things you might need on the road like rain coats, snacks, extra clothes, etc., 2 bags means that you have to do a lot of digging or very careful packing in the morning. With 4 bags, I put cooking stuff and food up front while I put clothes in the back. If I have to get snacks, those are on top in the front bag while the rain coat and extra clothes are in the back. There's a lot less digging to find what I need.
I live and camp in Colorado, by the way, and I've never found the need for any kind of bear canister. A bit of parachute cord is enough to hoist the food bags off the ground as well as keeping a very clean, bear resistant camp. As for the bear canister, I havent used one, dont own one, and only mentioned it because the OP specifically brought it up. |
Originally Posted by saddlesores
(Post 18367010)
just ziptie half a dozen spokes to one of the rear rack supports where they be out of the way.
Thanks! |
zipties are your friends. i gots a ziptie on the seatpost to
mark seatpost height. gotta remove the post for travel. and didn't someone mention sticking the spokes in the handlebars? why, you could even stuff them in the steering tube under the topcap, push 'em through a foam plug above the starnut. |
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18360821)
As I’ve seen conflicting suggestions for fore-aft weight distribution, I am hoping to hear some of the theoretical/practical reasons for different choices. For example, for long stretches of low gradient inclines/declines does it matter much? How about steeper grades? Lots of switchbacks? Singletrack? Etc. For reference, I will be loading a Surly Ogre for road and some off-road touring. Thanks in advance for any information/advice.
I wouldnt focus on percentages as much as what works best for your bike and load. |
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18362247)
I did see a very short thread from five years ago. I will see if I can find any other threads. I haven't done any touring, yet. I haven't bought any racks or panniers, yet. I haven't even decided on what I will pack, yet.
I did just find some info on Axiom Streamliner Disc rear racks and Axiom Aero 45 Panniers (Streamliner - Racks - Products - Axiom Cycling Gear). I am tentatively thinking of just loading the 45 litre bags, maybe putting a bear can on top, and going with a Jones handlebar bag for a few electronics, and maybe a small feedbag on the handlebar. Maybe a framebag, too. Including bike tools, none of which I have, yet, I will probably load about 50 pounds. I think this is where you can make mistakes according to catalog shopping and general images of touring loads based on what you know now and not what works best for that bike after having ridden it with different load combos. A big rear load can work for a bike with long chainstays but I'm not sure if that describes your Ogre although the rear wheel does have a range of adjustment. Instead of getting big rear bags start off with small front bags that can be located front or rear. Experiment with those smaller bags and a reasonable touring load of 25-30lbs in various configurations instead of committing to hundreds of dollars of stuff that may end up staying home. |
Spreading the load is a great idea. Different bikes call for different configurations, and the route, weather and availability of food and water means you may need to carry more or less gear and supplies. Here are my basic light, medium and heavy touring setups.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...6A37C82E86.jpg http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...E1C1A5CC90.jpg http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...0CFAA9A360.jpg |
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18363074)
Yeah, I plan on starting with these relatively small (by backpacking standards, anyway) rear panniers. (I have my not-so LBS installing a Son 28 front hub and a Plug III to keep them charged.) The reason I mentioned a framebag was that, in (my) theory, a small one seemed like it might be useful for a few (greasy?) bike tools, a spare tube, and assorted repair items. I really need to see how adding more weight to the front feels before deciding on a front rack or a bigger handlebar bag, such as the Revelate Sweetroll. Why 28spoke hub? There is no practical advantage with low spoke count and touring especially w 700c/29" rims. A frame bag is useful for securing loads within the frame for better handling and taking loads from the ends. A small frame bag is useful if you want room for water bottles in the frame. Your tools won't be greasy but it is nice to have tube/tire repair essentials in one place on the bike all the time. |
Originally Posted by LeeG
(Post 18375468)
45liter rear panniers are not small for bike touring, they are large.
Why 28spoke hub? There is no practical advantage with low spoke count and touring especially w 700c/29" rims. |
Originally Posted by LeeG
(Post 18375327)
A big rear load can work for a bike with long chainstays but I'm not sure if that describes your Ogre although the rear wheel does have a range of adjustment.
Instead of getting big rear bags start off with small front bags that can be located front or rear. Experiment with those smaller bags and a reasonable touring load of 25-30lbs in various configurations instead of committing to hundreds of dollars of stuff that may end up staying home. I'm just collecting information at this point! My latest thought is to start with the Revelate framebag that is custom made for the Ogre. Then I'll try loading it and putting my tent, with maybe my bed roll, on the Jones loop handlebar to see how it handles. BTW, the chainstay length on the Ogre is about 3 cm shorter than the LHT, according to the Surly web site. I'm totally oblivious to how much of an effect that will have on loading. Edit: I'm looking at adding fenders immediately for winter riding. So far, I'm leaning to the Planet Bike Cascadia 29ers. Actually, I first need pedals, since it doesn't come with any! |
Originally Posted by alan s
(Post 18375377)
Spreading the load is a great idea. Different bikes call for different configurations, and the route, weather and availability of food and water means you may need to carry more or less gear and supplies. Here are my basic light, medium and heavy touring setups.
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Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18375514)
I'm just collecting information at this point! My latest thought is to start with the Revelate framebag that is custom made for the Ogre. Then I'll try loading it and putting my tent, with maybe my bed roll, on the Jones loop handlebar to see how it handles.
BTW, the chainstay length on the Ogre is about 3 cm shorter than the LHT, according to the Surly web site. I'm totally oblivious to how much of an effect that will have on loading. Edit: I'm looking at adding fenders immediately for winter riding. So far, I'm leaning to the Planet Bike Cascadia 29ers. |
Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18375533)
I gather light to heavy from top to bottom. Would you share your approximate load weights (or even just volume) for each setup, please.
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Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18367982)
Who's to say whether I wear out the stock tires long before I leave?!
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Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18375490)
Son 28 is just the dynamo hub model number, I believe. I'm not changing the wheel.
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Originally Posted by alan s
(Post 18375547)
I don't tend to weigh the load, because there are so many variables (water and food being the main one). However, as a rough estimation, I'd say 20-30, 30-40 and 40-50+ pounds respectively.
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Originally Posted by Aidoneus
(Post 18375595)
Yeah, for backpacking the weight of consumables vary tremendously according to remoteness and length of stay. For bikepacking on roads, I suppose it will be much less of an issue.
If you are going to follow the TransAm, I'll guarantee that you won't find much from Girard, KS to Pueblo, CO. You won't find anything from Alexander, KS through Eads, CO to Ordway. There's not even much in the way of people out there. I grew up in that area. In fact, I'd suggest following US50 through Lamar, La Junta and on to Pueblo for that part of the TransAm. It's a lot more interesting and you aren't the only thing around for miles and miles. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18375813)
It's a lot more interesting and you aren't the only thing around for miles and miles.
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Originally Posted by LeeG
(Post 18375327)
I think this is where you can make mistakes according to catalog shopping and general images of touring loads based on what you know now and not what works best for that bike after having ridden it with different load combos.
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My wife got me the Axiom Typhoon 45 liter (combined volume) panniers for Christmas; no problem with heel clearance. I think someone asked about attaching a tail light to the rack: this one works great for me after using some locktite: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...ilpage_o05_s00.
I bought a very small saddle bag (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01) for tools, and a small handlebar bag (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o08_s00) for electronics (unfortunately, too small for my iPad Mini, though). I'm thinking of buying a pair of Cleveland Mountaineering Everything Bags (Cleaveland Mountaineering: Everything Bags) to mount on the front fork in order to hold a few things, like a rain jacket, and a couple of liters of water when I eventually reach the desert. With the ease of strapping my tent, bag, and pad to the Jones Loop handlebar, I feel like I will be set for storage...though I have been considering a Revelate Design Tangle bag to use as a feed bag or maybe for a water pouch (my dromedary bag would be too big, but I think that one of my Platypus bags would work). I'm afraid, though, that the tangle bag would mean losing both internal frame mounts--one of which has my whimsical "bird cage" (Amazon.com : Portland Design Works The Bird Cage Water Bottle Cage, Black : Bike Water Bottle Cages : Sports & Outdoors) and the other will hold, when it arrives, my Ti mini u-lock (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155L1G9W/...I2WFLWIGRH5P6H). Oh yeah, for those who keep telling me that I'm putting the cart before the horse, I've been riding up and down the local hills almost every day. (My neighborhood is built on the Indiana dunes.) My cadence is still too slow; I hope to focus on it after I pick up the Garmin Edge 25 Plus Cadence Bundle. (I cannot afford everything at once...or at least I don't want my wife to see packages arriving every day!) |
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