Sure you could. You just choose to lust after bikes which cost more than whats needed to get the job done.

Squeeze, I am giving you the benefit of the doubt and that is why I suggested in another thread about buying an older used mtb and using it until you decide what the next better option is. Not because I own shares in the used mtb market but because it allows you to get out and ride and they can be very versatile in regards to gravel, trail or road use. One bike to rule them all!

As an example; I am rebuilding a light early 90's cromo Marin I bought for $55. Deals like that are all over the place. It is a pretty fast bike with thinner road tires. Shimano Deore XT components, Araya rims, Ritchey head set, stock 44/36/24 crank and today I bought new shimano replacement brake/shifter combos for $44 which includes all cables. They will allow me to upgrade my cantis to V brakes down the road if I want to too. Paint I did myself and I will swap my brooks saddle over from my other bike so I can be riding a pretty skookum bike for $100, not counting racks, panniers etc... and the versatility is that to go from road to trail I just need to swap out tires. Oops, forgot replacing the BB with a shimano UN55 seal unit for $30 so let's say $150 including grease and new bearings for the head set. The mech at the LBS today said he thought it would have been a $1000 bike back in the day but I don't know about that.

Then, when I win the lottery I will by my LHT... ;)

He won't answer this. He's obviously never been a bike mechanic nor worked at a shop. He's new to cycling, may not even ride at all. I don't understand why someone would want to pretend they know stuff when they are so easily caught out. Nothing wrong with being a noob, just be honest. I'll second, third, fourth whatever, the idea of an older rigid mtb. Very versatile, cheap and forgiving. Do one like Happy mentions above and you'll have something interesting and worth sharing.

...in this particular case, I believe it was dented by a racer who owned it previously, by over tightening the front derailleur clamp. If you hang around bikes enough, you will encounter dented frames, both steel and aluminum. With some of the thinly drawn high zoot tubing, you can dent a frame just by clamping it too tightly in the workstand....thus the clamping tools that fit into the seat tube at the seat post insertion. You grab that tool, rather than the frame.

I think I remember the guy who posts a lot saying that there was not a correlation between the use of higher strength steels in frames and denting. Practical experience says that's wrong, because his hypotheticals are funky. High zoot tubes for frames are invariably drawn to thinner walled tubing (not always, but mostly). It's why they are used in the first place. then you can brag on how much lighter is your overall frame weight. Most of the reasonable touring bikes I've owned and used are framed with relatively thicker walls. They might be a little heavier, but they are less flexible, and ride more securely when loaded with me and whatever I'm carrying.

I have two aluminum frame bikes with dents. Both are Cannondales; one is my light weight road bike, and the other is my wife's touring bike. My road bike fell off the work stand, and dented the cross tube. I'd be glad to send you pictures, if you really want to see a couple of dented bikes. However, taking picture of dents on dark colored bikes is a real challenge, so no guarantee. I can also show you a crack in a steel frame, not a LHT. It is a Bianchi, and Bianchi USA replaced this 2007 frame with a new 2013 frame, fork, and headset.
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...dda32b5d42.jpg

I use the "race" type workstand and it is easy to drop a bike if you are not careful.

This is a LHT. No dents!
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...1077356756.jpg

*$%# does happen. What would have happened to this bike if it was carbon or even aluminum? The cantilever stud was bent, cracking the weld where it joined the seat stay. It had to be replaced. This happened to be on my wife's custom built Co-Motion. Their shop replaced the stud in one day but did not have time to paint it before we left on a tour. I was putting a coat of primer on it, and they painted it when we returned home. Touring bikes take a beating. Even well built, high quality bikes can get damaged if you actually ride them.
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...T/IMG_6419.jpg

I've been cycling for almost 50 yrs. I did work in a shop in my early 20s. I have never seen a dented frame, bent yes! That's my experience. Your's is obviously different. Doesn't make either of us a fool.

The idea of a used mountain bicycle might be a good idea. Particularly if I get it to fit my son, who doesn't care for bicycles. But then he would have something as an around town bicycle.

Half a century? Ive seen a dented frame this year and its not even february. And it is winter. And i havent ridden in weeks.

I do a lot of touring in Northern Ontario Canada. I get off the train in a small town and often ride 60+ kilometers to the actual start of my tour. A lot of the roads I ride there are loose surface dirt, stone, gravel logging/mining/fire roads. Sometimes i'll have my narrow 1.5" slicks (26' wheels) mounted for the paved and hard surface portion of the ride to the start and then the first night camping swap them for the wide knobby tires I need for tyhat loose rough stuff. This also allows me the luxury of touring a lot of the paved backroads in that area or riding a totally different route home.

I think an old rigid MTB (front and rear = non-suspension) is one very versatile bike. Many of them have the mounts for racks, dual bottle mounts and also have good clearances for fenders over 2.125" knobby tires.

For examples take a look at all the MTB/dropbar conversions on the gravel grinders thread.

Cheers

...adding to the beauty of the MTB conversion as tourist is that they are considered outmoded by most mountain bikers, there is not a huge demand, and some very nice ones are available on Craigslist here for a minimal investment.:)