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My Kona Sutra LTD build coming up...

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My Kona Sutra LTD build coming up...

Old 01-21-16, 01:28 AM
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My Kona Sutra LTD build coming up...

So after a long wait, I finally got my '16 Kona Sutra LTD frame. 3-1/2 months roughly, but its here, so I guess I might as well start a build page, haha. That being said, Here is what I have for it at the moment:

Frame- '16 Kona Sutra LTD
Crankset- Shimano Deore XT Touring 48-36-26
Rear Derailleur- Shimano Deore XT 10-Spd (Shadow+...I think)
Front Derailleur- Shimano Deore XT
Shifters- MicroShift BS-M10 Bar ends.
Wheel set- Velocity Cliffhanger's with 36H Shimano XT Rear hub and 36H SP Dynamo Hub for the front.
Brakes- TRP Spyres with TRP RRL brake levers.
Headlight- B&M Lumotec IQ
Taillight- B&M (with brake light capability)

Items I need...

Cassette- Still undecided what range. Thinking 12-36.
Seatpost/Saddle...Will Probably go with Thomson Elite 27.2 with Brooks Saddle.
Rack- Yeah need some advice here. Looking at the Tubus Logo. Spend, but stout
Bar/Stem...I'm thinking of the Salsa Cowchipper on a Thomson stem, but not quite for sure as to which width to get. Usually ride a 42 road bar, but the guy at the shop says 44. I ride the 42 because on the 44, I get a painful pinch between the shoulder blades in the drops. So I'm planning on some loaners if he can get a hold of an old set.
Tires, but I'm pretty sure the Schwalbe Mondials are going to be it...Who knows...
Headset...Thought it came with one, but guess not...

I'm pretty stoked to do this. Its my first non-racing bike build. I do have the frame saver to get done (Guess the shop doesn't do it...Don't know why, this is Washington and I would definitely pay for that service), then I'll take it in and get it chased and faced. Had to buy a whole can of the stuff to sit around for like...EVER...

Anyway, the goal with this bike will be for commuting and some around the state touring to get started. Even though its a blue bike, I do want a R.E.D. (Ride Everyday) bike...Getting dressed up in spandex all the time just doesn't thrill me for casual rides. Though, I am a roadie at heart, haha. Any who, I'll post pics tomorrow. Gotta warm up the frame for the frame savering treatment...Any constructive advice and questions are welcome. And I picked the Kona because where I live, there are just too many Surly's and I like the blue, just in case anybody's wondering...
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Old 01-21-16, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 36Oly_Rider
So after a long wait, I finally got my '16 Kona Sutra LTD frame. 3-1/2 months roughly, but its here, so I guess I might as well start a build page, haha. That being said, Here is what I have for it at the moment:

Frame- '16 Kona Sutra LTD
Crankset- Shimano Deore XT Touring 48-36-26
Rear Derailleur- Shimano Deore XT 10-Spd (Shadow+...I think)
Front Derailleur- Shimano Deore XT
Shifters- MicroShift BS-M10 Bar ends.
Wheel set- Velocity Cliffhanger's with 36H Shimano XT Rear hub and 36H SP Dynamo Hub for the front.
Brakes- TRP Spyres with TRP RRL brake levers.
Headlight- B&M Lumotec IQ
Taillight- B&M (with brake light capability)

Items I need...

Cassette- Still undecided what range. Thinking 12-36.
Seatpost/Saddle...Will Probably go with Thomson Elite 27.2 with Brooks Saddle.
Rack- Yeah need some advice here. Looking at the Tubus Logo. Spend, but stout
Bar/Stem...I'm thinking of the Salsa Cowchipper on a Thomson stem, but not quite for sure as to which width to get. Usually ride a 42 road bar, but the guy at the shop says 44. I ride the 42 because on the 44, I get a painful pinch between the shoulder blades in the drops. So I'm planning on some loaners if he can get a hold of an old set.
Tires, but I'm pretty sure the Schwalbe Mondials are going to be it...Who knows...
Headset...Thought it came with one, but guess not...

I'm pretty stoked to do this. Its my first non-racing bike build. I do have the frame saver to get done (Guess the shop doesn't do it...Don't know why, this is Washington and I would definitely pay for that service), then I'll take it in and get it chased and faced. Had to buy a whole can of the stuff to sit around for like...EVER...

Anyway, the goal with this bike will be for commuting and some around the state touring to get started. Even though its a blue bike, I do want a R.E.D. (Ride Everyday) bike...Getting dressed up in spandex all the time just doesn't thrill me for casual rides. Though, I am a roadie at heart, haha. Any who, I'll post pics tomorrow. Gotta warm up the frame for the frame savering treatment...Any constructive advice and questions are welcome. And I picked the Kona because where I live, there are just too many Surly's and I like the blue, just in case anybody's wondering...
Cool build dude - I like your part selection, well done!

If it were me, I'd skip the Thomson stuff and save some cash. High quality for sure, but I've had good luck with a lot of lower end stuff also with nary a problem. If you have the cash to spend, I really like the idea of using some of the 'flex' carbon posts, Specialized Cobl Gobl-R or maybe an Ergon:

ERGON BIKE ERGONOMICS

Flex is quite noticeable and smooth things out quite a bit.

Can't go wrong with a King headset. I also really like Tubus, super well made, but can also be a bit porky and $$.
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Old 01-21-16, 07:41 AM
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I agree, Thomson is nice and I have Thomson seatposts on two bikes now, but not for any reason other than unpassable good deals. If I were building a new touring bike, I'd go with a Ritchey Comp or an Easton EA50 and call it a day. They're only very slightly heavier, and just as easily adjusted.
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Old 01-21-16, 02:51 PM
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Pics

Here are the pictures of the frame. The lighting doesn't do justice for the color. Kind of has that old style Lone Ranger washed out blue.

Also, been checking out the Easton seat posts. They really look a lot better now. I haven't bothered with them for a while, but aesthetically, they look real good now. Digging the EA70 Zero...
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Old 01-21-16, 09:28 PM
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I agree, its a nice looking frame, and I have always heard good things about the Sutra. Tough frame, will be a very good intro to touring for you. For the bars, as someone who rides road bikes already, I'd certainly recommend going with what works for you width wise. Not that I have ridden with them, but the chipper is pretty flared out, the cowbell is less, if that appeals. No matter what you get, a bar with shallowish drop from top of bars to bar ends will make shifter nicer.
Im fairly certain its easy to plop a 24 onto that crank, and as for cassette, I guess it will depend on how much stuff you will carry and the terrain--again , as a roadie, you appreciate closer cassettes, so you may find you can live with a less wide cassette than a 36, and enjoy closer jumps--I appreciate this just as much going fast as touring, where the extra weight makes it harder on knees with larger cadence changes-but you can try out things and see what works for what you want to do. As Im sure you know, having a set of chain+cassette with chain at right length for that cassette, is pretty handy and not much of a thing to switch out. My experience is that rd adjustments are pretty minimal with diff cassettes, so its not a big thing to do for a given type of riding load wise.

have fun
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Old 02-06-16, 03:00 AM
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Update 1...

Got some stuff done...Headset pressed and fork installed......Ordered up tires, Continental TOP CONTACT II......XT Rear Hub......SP PD-8 Dynamo Hub......Its definitely gonna be a "Cliffhanger" to get it done......Very bright reflectivity flash test......Fun Stuff... BTW Went with Raceface Ride seatpost and matching stem to boot...
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Old 02-06-16, 05:51 AM
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Considering the prevalence of electronic devices that require a USB port for charging, you have the dynohub but I do not see a charger on your list. If you are not camping with the bike, then you really do not need the charger since you would have charger access every night, but if you are camping you might want to chose the charger before you buy the light. The reason I say that is that there are some light/charger combinations that some people prefer over a light with separate charger.

Frame saver, you will find more frames later in life to use it on. I thought the same as you, why buy a whole can when I only need to do one frame, but I have now put it on four frames.

Regarding not looking like a roadie, I usually wear the bright green tee shirts that make me look like a construction worker when I have a half dozen good jerseys I could wear. I bought a bunch of those tee shirts when I saw them at $5 at the farm and fleet store.

I do not see fenders on your list. If you put fenders on, if you cut the stays, leave enough extra rod on the stays so that if you buy bigger tires later, you can adjust your fenders to fit the bigger tires. When I build up a bike and put fenders on it, I usually put the biggest tires on it that I think I will ever use, then adjust the fenders to fit those tires. If I use smaller tires later, I leave the fenders adjusted for the bigger tires.

If you are used to racing bikes, you already know what pedals you like. But for touring I like pedals that have SPD cleats on one side, platform for regular shoes on the other. Several months ago I wrote up a comparison of Shimano A530 and M324 pedals, at this link:

https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...l#post18306425

Last edited by Tourist in MSN; 02-07-16 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 02-06-16, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
Considering the prevalence of electronic devices that require a USB port for charging, you have the dynohub but I do not see a charger on your list. If you are not camping with the bike, then you really do not need the charger since you would have charger access every night, but if you are camping you might want to chose the charger before you buy the light. The reason I say that is that there are some light/charger combinations that some people prefer over a light with separate charger.

Frame saver, you will find more frames later in life to use it on. I thought the same as you, why buy a whole can when I only need to do one frame, but I have now put it on four frames.

Regarding not looking like a roadie, I usually wear the bright green tee shirts that make me look like a construction worker when I have a half dozen good jerseys I could wear. I bought a bunch of those tee shirts when I saw them at $5 at the farm and fleet store.

I do not see fenders on your list. If you put fenders on, if you cut the stays, leave enough extra rod on the stays so that if you buy bigger tires later, you can adjust your fenders to fit the bigger tires. When I build up a bike and put fenders on it, I usually put the biggest tires on it that I think I will ever use, then adjust the fenders to fit those tires. If I use smaller tires later, I leave the fenders adjusted for the bigger tires.

If you are used to racing bikes, you already know what pedals you like. But for touring I like pedals that have SPD cleats on one side, platform for regular shoes on the other. Several months ago I wrote up a comparison of Shimano A530 and M324 pedals, at this link:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...pedals.htmlnk:
Broken linky..... looks like a good topic too!
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Old 02-06-16, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
Considering the prevalence of electronic devices that require a USB port for charging, you have the dynohub but I do not see a charger on your list. If you are not camping with the bike, then you really do not need the charger since you would have charger access every night, but if you are camping you might want to chose the charger before you buy the light. The reason I say that is that there are some light/charger combinations that some people prefer over a light with separate charger.

Frame saver, you will find more frames later in life to use it on. I thought the same as you, why buy a whole can when I only need to do one frame, but I have now put it on four frames.

Regarding not looking like a roadie, I usually wear the bright green tee shirts that make me look like a construction worker when I have a half dozen good jerseys I could wear. I bought a bunch of those tee shirts when I saw them at $5 at the farm and fleet store.

I do not see fenders on your list. If you put fenders on, if you cut the stays, leave enough extra rod on the stays so that if you buy bigger tires later, you can adjust your fenders to fit the bigger tires. When I build up a bike and put fenders on it, I usually put the biggest tires on it that I think I will ever use, then adjust the fenders to fit those tires. If I use smaller tires later, I leave the fenders adjusted for the bigger tires.

If you are used to racing bikes, you already know what pedals you like. But for touring I like pedals that have SPD cleats on one side, platform for regular shoes on the other. Several months ago I wrote up a comparison of Shimano A530 and M324 pedals, at this link:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...pedals.htmlnk:
Yeah, I looked at those, and they are in consideration...Right now, I'm looking at the Crank Brothers Double Shot (I would've said no, but Crank Bros have a zero float cleat now, so I'm digging that.) A little on the heavy side, but theres disadvantages to everything. They are really grippy on the non-clip side. Doesn't look like it, but I tested the grip with my Patagonia hiking shoes on and with a slight forward tilt, they weren't going anywhere anytime soon...The other I was looking at is the Shimano XT PD-T-780 Touring pedal. Not sure on the grippiness of it, but I like the looks of them and they're wid. The M324 are the next, but don't come in black, then the A530's, but they seem narrow on the platform side. If I were to go total clipless, I'd probably go with the Speedplay SYZR, but I do want the versatility, so they're out...
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Old 02-06-16, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PolarBear007
Broken linky..... looks like a good topic too!
Here it is...https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...30-pedals.html
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