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What model year is this Novara Randonee?

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What model year is this Novara Randonee?

Old 04-05-16, 07:15 PM
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What model year is this Novara Randonee?

Hey guys, I'm interested in buying this old school Randonee, but before I do, I would like to know some more information about it. I would like to know if it's worth the $125 the seller is asking for it and if there are things I should be looking out for with this old of a bicycle. Basically any information you might have on it would be great.

It has 53cm made in Japan cromoly Tange 2 butted frame/fork. 18-speed indexed Shimano Deore drivetain. Shimano 105 crankset. Canti brakes. Bosses for pannier bags. Indexed shifting 6 speed rear. Triple front. No rust. Suzue/Araya 700c alloy rims 36H wheelset. The frame has vertical dropouts, three water bottle mounts, fender eyelets front and rear, rack mounts front and rear including low-rider braze-ons on the fork.

Any thoughts on the value, including all the bits listed here?








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Last edited by Tomkatosaurus; 04-05-16 at 11:18 PM. Reason: corrections.
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Old 04-05-16, 08:50 PM
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It has 700c and 27x1 1/4 rims? Are the front and back different?

I've paid more for bikes with far lesser components. If it were local to me I'd probably jump on it in a hurry if it fit, and if older/more affordable bikes are your thing (they are to me), unless the thing was in a completely unusable state.
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Old 04-05-16, 09:12 PM
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Tough to give valuation without pictures. That said, yeah if the bike is in decent shape, it is worth the asking price. Touring bikes tend to go at a premium and this is a quality bike with quality components. It's worth quite a bit more than $125 (assuming that the bike is in decent shape as are the parts).
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Old 04-05-16, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jefnvk
It has 700c and 27x1 1/4 rims? Are the front and back different?

I've paid more for bikes with far lesser components. If it were local to me I'd probably jump on it in a hurry if it fit, and if older/more affordable bikes are your thing (they are to me), unless the thing was in a completely unusable state.
Sorry I mis-spoke about the rims, they are 700c front and back. Regarding sizing, I am 5'9", the bike is 53cm which I take as being medium. Would that be a fair assessment. Oh and it comes with a Brooks B72 seat frame in need of re-covering.

Last edited by Tomkatosaurus; 04-05-16 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 04-05-16, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Tough to give valuation without pictures. That said, yeah if the bike is in decent shape, it is worth the asking price. Touring bikes tend to go at a premium and this is a quality bike with quality components. It's worth quite a bit more than $125 (assuming that the bike is in decent shape as are the parts).
Thank you bikemig. I'm just getting back into the commuting thing and I thought I'd start on this bike then "upgrade" when I know I'm serious...
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Old 04-06-16, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomkatosaurus
Thank you bikemig. I'm just getting back into the commuting thing and I thought I'd start on this bike then "upgrade" when I know I'm serious...
If that's your size, you should buy it. Don't delay and you will never need to upgrade even if you might want what we call here N + 1 one day. Once you buy it, you should post some pics in the C&V forum and you'll get some ideas on how to rehab the bike.
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Old 04-06-16, 07:28 AM
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Looks like a good deal to me. You can try and talk him down if you REALLY want to ($125 sounds like a 'haggle me down to $100' price), but as long as the wheels are straight and the shifting works well, just buy the thing.

Regarding the Brooks and labor, keep in mind that you can ebay a functional used Brooks for under $100.

Assuming those parts are stock, the bike is late 80s, maybe up to 1990. Indexed shifting appeared in maybe '86, and Shimano was moving into 7 speed parts by the very early 90s. Mostly irrelevant, as the components on that bike are very similar to what gets sold on a touring bike today.

Last edited by Raiden; 04-06-16 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 04-06-16, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Raiden
Looks like a good deal to me. You can try and talk him down if you REALLY want to ($125 sounds like a 'haggle me down to $100' price), but as long as the wheels are straight and the shifting works well, just buy the thing.

Regarding the Brooks and labor, keep in mind that you can ebay a functional used Brooks for under $100.

Assuming those parts are stock, the bike is late 80s, maybe up to 1990. Indexed shifting appeared in maybe '86, and Shimano was moving into 7 speed parts by the very early 90s. Mostly irrelevant, as the components on that bike are very similar to what gets sold on a touring bike today.
Yeah, I'm sold. I'm going to pick it up today. Thanks for the tip about buying a Brooks seat on eBay. I just checked it out.
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Old 04-06-16, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomkatosaurus
Hey guys, I'm interested in buying this old school Randonee, but before I do, I would like to know some more information about it. I would like to know if it's worth the $125 the seller is asking for it and if there are things I should be looking out for with this old of a bicycle. Basically any information you might have on it would be great.
100% worth $125. Thats a great deal for the parts alone. If you ride it and after a month you hate the bike, it should be easy to sell for at least $125.
Its from 86-91 based on the components listed(aero brakes, 105 components).

Thats some really solid tubing and a well spec'd bike(3 bottle mounts, mid fork mounts, etc).
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Old 04-06-16, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomkatosaurus
Sorry I mis-spoke about the rims, they are 700c front and back. Regarding sizing, I am 5'9", the bike is 53cm which I take as being medium. Would that be a fair assessment. Oh and it comes with a Brooks B72 seat frame in need of re-covering.
Every person is different. I'm about your height, but I've got midget legs and a long torso, and I like bigger frames (57-58) that I can't even stand over, they just fit me better when riding. I've learned that you can use what you should be in as a general starting point, but it should be nothing but a general starting point.

Looks beautiful, though! That wouldn't last near me for long.

The C&V forum can probably help you with dating it when you get it home.

Last edited by jefnvk; 04-06-16 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 04-06-16, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jefnvk
Every person is different. I'm about your height, but I've got midget legs and a long torso, and I like bigger frames (57-58) that I can't even stand over, they just fit me better when riding. I've learned that you can use what you should be in as a general starting point, but it should be nothing but a general starting point.

Looks beautiful, though! That wouldn't last near me for long.

The C&V forum can probably help you with dating it when you get it home.
The bike being 53cm is a bit small. I can stand over the top tube with about 2"-3" to spare. Not knowing exactly how to size a bike, I'm not sure if this is workable, or not.
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Old 04-06-16, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomkatosaurus
The bike being 53cm is a bit small. I can stand over the top tube with about 2"-3" to spare. Not knowing exactly how to size a bike, I'm not sure if this is workable, or not.
Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist

I am 5' 9" and ended up with the L (effective top tube 55.5, seat tube center to top 54 cm), you really have to ride the bike (try an L at an REI near you).
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Old 04-06-16, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomkatosaurus
The bike being 53cm is a bit small. I can stand over the top tube with about 2"-3" to spare. Not knowing exactly how to size a bike, I'm not sure if this is workable, or not.
I'm sure someone can comment with a better method, but mine: get on it and ride it. Does it feel reasonably comfortable?

The online calculators put me in a 51-52 size, based on my inseam. All my road bikes are over 55cm. When I was looking for small frame, it was obvious to me within a minute of riding that the bike wasn't the right size, I was too cramped with a short top tube (something fundamentally unchangeable about the bike), and the first one that actually felt good to me was a 57cm Peugeot. I've since found my 23" Schwinn, which translates roughly to a 58, that fits me even better and feels wonderful.

That said, sometimes even though the deal is there for the taking, the bike doesn't fit and you have to walk away.

Last edited by jefnvk; 04-06-16 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 04-06-16, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by GerryinHouston
Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist

I am 5' 9" and ended up with the L (effective top tube 55.5, seat tube center to top 54 cm), you really have to ride the bike (try an L at an REI near you).
Here are my measurements.


[TABLE="width: 280, align: center"]
[TR]
[TD]The Competitive Fit (cm)[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Seat Tube Range c–c:
Seat Tube Range c–t:
Top Tube Length:
Stem Length:
BB–Saddle Position:
Saddle Handlebar:
Saddle Setback:[/TD]
[TD]55.1 - 55.6 cm
56.8 - 57.3 cm
54.7 - 55.1 cm
11.2 - 11.8 cm
72.9 - 74.9 cm
54.1 - 54.7 cm
6.7 - 7.1 cm[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="width: 270, align: center"]
[TR]
[TD]My Measurements[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Inseam:
Trunk:
Forearm:
Arm:
Thigh:
Lower Leg:
Sternal Notch:
Total Body Height:[/TD]
[TD]33.5
25
14
26.5
25
21.75
56.5
68.25[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
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Old 04-06-16, 10:29 AM
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Well yeah, you can see from that measurements info that a 53 may be small.
A new stem can raise the handlebars. It can also extend the bars for more reach or bring them closer.
Seatposts can be swapped out if you want some offset or not.

These are the two common components which will help adjust a frame to fit. With that said, anything over a couple CM adjustment and you probably are working with a less than ideal bike to begin with. A touring bike usually means multiple hours riding which makes fit even more important.
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Old 04-06-16, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Well yeah, you can see from that measurements info that a 53 may be small.
A new stem can raise the handlebars. It can also extend the bars for more reach or bring them closer.
Seatposts can be swapped out if you want some offset or not.

These are the two common components which will help adjust a frame to fit. With that said, anything over a couple CM adjustment and you probably are working with a less than ideal bike to begin with. A touring bike usually means multiple hours riding which makes fit even more important.
Good points. Funny that you should mention changing out the stem and handle. I have the seller changing out these very 2 components to help the bike better fit me. I plan to see it this afternoon to see how the changes he made work out. I'm hoping bringing the stem up a few inches and the handlebars up to will help.

My other option is to pickup a used Randonee ($480), Fuji Touring ($450), possibly a new Novara Gotham ($695)(commute to work around 17miles one way.).

Last edited by Tomkatosaurus; 04-06-16 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 04-06-16, 10:45 AM
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wow, that must be a motivated seller as swapping out a quill stem means removing the tape and brake levers and then reinstalling both. It also could mean having to cut and install new brake cables and housing.
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Old 04-06-16, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
wow, that must be a motivated seller as swapping out a quill stem means removing the tape and brake levers and then reinstalling both. It also could mean having to cut and install new brake cables and housing.
Yeah, he's a cool guy.
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